Hello all! This is my first time writing something like this so forgive me if I seem repetitive or

 

Firstly let me say this has been a great challenge from start to finish and what a difference it has made already and I’ve only had the screen in for 5 days as of writing this (27/02/2021.) The whole reason for wanting to fit the heated screen was down to the fact that every winter morning I would get into the car and the screen was misted up and would take forever to clear both the ice and mist on the inside.

Parts list for this project is as follows:

 

1)       000979986A – 6mm repair wire. Approximately 5m long.  £6.80+vat

2)       000979985A – 4mm repair wire. Approximately 5M long. £ 8.57+vat

3)       071973851 – Housing (connectors for the heated screen positive connection.) £5.59+vat each (x2 required)

4)       000979425E – 6mm wire with terminals on for relay connection terminals 30 & 87 - £8.64+vat

5)       N91186305 – 50A fuse for position 14 in under bonnet fuse box - £5.69+vat

6)       5Q0937507D – Relay plate for the heated screen relay in under bonnet fuse box - £3.79+vat

7)       Used under bonnet fuse box from Ebay with all the relays, fuses and terminals still in the housing -  £16.66+vat

8)       Used Heater control panel from Ebay - £62.50+vat (matching PR codes to your current vehicle apart from finding the correct PR code for heated screen to add to your current codes for the correct part number (3V0 907 044 T YMS for my car)

9)       3V0 845 011 AD NVB – Heated windscreen from TPS - £448.28+vat

10)   Soldering iron and solder

11)   Heat shrink of varying sizes and colours (optional but it was the best was I found of waterproofing the connections under the bonnet. Might I add that none of the connections that I’ve made have been twisted and taped together! That’s just not done in my eyes, in my opinion you’re asking for trouble if you even contemplate doing that!

12)   Electrical cable rod to get the wiring through the grommet in the firewall to make internal connections.

 

So I started off by first making sure that the body control module was the same as one from a Superb that had a heated screen so that I knew that the internal relay was present in my control unit for outputting an earth to the switched side of the screen relay. Luckily it was the same as the superb with a heated screen so onward I went.

I started by fitting up the relay plate in the under bonnet fuse box, the 6mm repair wire comes with two terminals on it (one either end) one end went into position 123 and the other in 125 of the relay plate & the wire was then cut in half giving me two long tails read to connect as required. The wire in position 123 was connected one of the cables I removed from the second hand fuse box and was put into one of the openings in fuse 14s location. For the other terminal in fuse 14 I again removed one of the fuse terminals from the used fuse box and put this into the other side and connected it to a Terminal 30 connection post on the underside of the fuse box. I then extracted two of the 0.5mm relay terminals with tail wires still attached from the used fuse box and inserted them into positions 121 & 122 of the relay plate.

 

With the power connections made and the tails for the other three wires long enough I attached extension wires to them and started routing the 6mm wire from the under bonnet fuse box along the existing wiring loom and up to under the scuttle panel where the connection would be made for the positive connections on the bottom of the screen. The other two tails for the power and earth for the changeover of the relay were loomed together and also run alongside the existing wiring loom to the grommet in the firewall. I used a small spike tool to make the smallest of holes so that I could screw the threaded end of my electric cable rod through the grommet and attached the tails to it using electrical tape. Pulled the tails through the fire wall and because I’d made such a small hole to begin with the rubber just closed up around the new wiring no problem at all! If the hole hadn’t have closed up like it did I would have put a small smear of black silicone over the opening to make it water tight again. 

With the glove box removed and the left hand end of the dash board removed (Right hand drive car) I could access the new wiring that had made its way perfectly to where it needed to go (stroke of luck it ended up where it was to be honest rather than having to search everywhere for it and re rout it inside the car).  Again calling on the used fuse box I removed one of the fuse terminals with a long enough tail on it and inserted it into the fuse box behind the glove box (this saved routing a wire from the left side of the car and taking it all round the back of the dash to then have to find connection B111 for the heating circuit fuse and tagging into that) and used a separate 5A fuse supply for the trigger side of the relay instead of fuse 7 on the drivers side fuse box.

The remaining tail wire for the earth trigger from the central electrics control unit (J519) was next. This went to terminal 26 of the 46pin connector (middle plug) of the J519. I had a terminal left over from a job at work which was the correct one for this purpose which is why I’ve not listed it above because I couldn’t find the part number for this but if you order parts from TPS then they’ll be able to have a look on ETKA for the wire you’ll be needing. Once this was connected and the two fuses were installed and the relay was installed I turned my attention to the connections under the scuttle for the screen.

These were probably the easiest connections to make. As mentioned above the repair wires come with two terminals already crimped on, one terminal was then pushed into each of the two housings and the locking tabs were locked in place. Normally the under bonnet plug connectors have little rubber grommets that are crimped onto the terminal and wire to make the plugs water tight. I wasn’t going to buy a bag (30 in each bag) of these for stupid money as I only needed two. So out came the black silicone with a fine nozzle on it and I filled the two open ends up and moved the wire around so that the silicone could completely fill the connector openings to make a water tight seal. Worked a treat I might add! I then found the middle of the repair wire with the two connections on it and stripped it back enough so I could divide the wire in two and make a hole big enough for the 6mm tail to be pushed through and then soldered in place. I then used a combination of electrical tape and liquid electrical tape to make sure that the connection was water tight and fully insulated from touching any earth!

I then had the screen fitted by a windscreen fitting company and they connected the positive connectors up in the scuttle that I’d wired in and connected the earth side of the screen to the earth post which is located under the light in the head liner.  The very next day there was a relatively hard frost on the screen which I couldn’t have been happier about for once. In I jumped and within 30 seconds I’d gone from a frosted up screen to clear and ready to go! Totally worth the work doing it and all the time in getting the correct parts and cables to do it properly!

 

Thanks all for taking the time to read this and apologies if it seems like It’s been written by a 3 year old but it’s the first time I’ve done anything like this so I hope it helps someone else out there that’s crazy enough to do the same as me! I know next time I upgrade my car it’ll have a heated screen already fitted!

 

Thanks for reading and bearing with me while I wittered on for ages! Hope this helps anyone else that’s crazy enough to attempt this themselves!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is fab info! Super useful for me as it’s an incoming mod on my Superb too

A brilliant write up. Hopefully useful to people who may want to retro fit. 

Always wanted a heated front screen but I never seem to be able to drop on a second hand VAG car that has had it fitted that ticked all the other boxes.

 

Top job!

5 hours ago, SuperbTWM said:

Always wanted a heated front screen

Never used it during 5 years, Webasto rocks!

Just price of option increased to 1100 euros, in far 2016 were 780e

A heated screen is an absolute must in our climate. I can't believe more people don't specify them from new!

 

Thanks for sharing your write-up, hopefully this will be useful to someone.

 

A heated windscreen is my number 1 requirement, but tricky to find on VAG cars.

Edited 5 March, 20215 yr by ChrisCh

I'm doing this right now, windscreen should arrive tomorrow. @gazz3000could you advise - could I switch over the windscreen first, and then do the wiring, or would it be too hard to access the connection points after the screen is fitted? I'm not sure I'll have the wiring prepared ready in time before the screen fitter will come on Weds.

 

Everything is accessible once the screen is in pal! If you need any help on the wiring then let me know! I’ll blast you the wiring diagrams over! 
 

FYI the earth connection is above the interior light at the front of the roof liner and the two connectors for the positive side of the screen are under the scuttle panel, perfectly accessible if your happy taking the scuttle back off once the screen is fitted! 

I am also doing this shortly so I’m sure I’ll have questions too. I’m just waiting for the screen to arrive. @AlValdid you get a screen with camera cutout so you can fit A5 cam?

Never used my heated screen, simply because you still need to de-ice all the side windows anyway, the other thing I didn't like about it was that it caused reflection with the dashboard.

Just be aware that if you run a radar detector the heated windscreen will effectively render it useless front on, unless it fits within the little “cutout” by the frits 

 

https://youtu.be/Dd5YyLgyw5E

 

I had to sell my Uniden r7 as it’s too big to fit within the cutout

 

Personally I’ll never by a car with a heated windscreen again

Edited 12 June, 20214 yr by Guest

19 hours ago, SashaGrace said:

I am also doing this shortly so I’m sure I’ll have questions too. I’m just waiting for the screen to arrive. @AlValdid you get a screen with camera cutout so you can fit A5 cam?

Yes, I have bought an A5 front camera for retrofit, and also upgraded radar so that I can retrofit pACC, blind spot side assist, lane assist, TSR, etc. be very careful with the PR codes, the pr code descriptions that sound like heated are not - it's  ridiculous. Tps is a good call in terms of pricing for the screen. Also had to buy a new rear view mirror and other bits to allow for the front camera retrofit

Edited 12 June, 20214 yr by AlVal

2 hours ago, AlVal said:

Yes, I have bought an A5 front camera for retrofit, and also upgraded radar so that I can retrofit pACC, blind spot side assist, lane assist, TSR, etc. be very careful with the PR codes, the pr code descriptions that sound like heated are not - it's  ridiculous. Tps is a good call in terms of pricing for the screen. Also had to buy a new rear view mirror and other bits to allow for the front camera retrofit

Care to open a new thread ob retrofitting the pACC? that one sounds interesting..Thnx in advance!

4 hours ago, AlVal said:

Yes, I have bought an A5 front camera for retrofit, and also upgraded radar so that I can retrofit pACC, blind spot side assist, lane assist, TSR, etc. be very careful with the PR codes, the pr code descriptions that sound like heated are not - it's  ridiculous. Tps is a good call in terms of pricing for the screen. Also had to buy a new rear view mirror and other bits to allow for the front camera retrofit

I’ve got the part number from a 2020 L&K for mine, should be ok. I’m just waiting for it to arrive now.

1 hour ago, bubib5 said:

Care to open a new thread ob retrofitting the pACC? that one sounds interesting..Thnx in advance!

pACC is just FeC/SWaP on the radar and A5 cam. I’m hoping to sort it on mine soon 😊

23 minutes ago, SashaGrace said:

I’ve got the part number from a 2020 L&K for mine, should be ok. I’m just waiting for it to arrive now.

pACC is just FeC/SWaP on the radar and A5 cam. I’m hoping to sort it on mine soon 😊

Ahh, any info where one might get the required SW to do it, sadly im nowhere near England.. And the hardware necessary would be that you already have ACC, and anything else? I do have ACC, lane assist, blind spot, TSR, emergency assist, rear cross traffic.. Does it need a newer MIB or will a MIB 2 do?

EDIT: don know if it matters, but i do have working traffic jam assist, maybe that helps determine which hardware i already have

Edited 12 June, 20214 yr by bubib5

3 hours ago, bubib5 said:

Care to open a new thread ob retrofitting the pACC? that one sounds interesting..Thnx in advance!

I’ll second that one!! 

pACC is for someone "only" FeC/SWaP, but it could also require special dataset to be written in Front Radar.
The requirements for pACC:

Front Camera (A5) with active TSR (2Q0 requires SWaP/FeC for that too)

Navigation

Front Radar 3QF with any index, 5Q0 with index G/H, 2Q0 (I mean HW part number, not SW, because for 3QF the SW is 5Q0 too, there is not specific index needed)
In cases for Superb with radar from factory (or retrofited one previously on Superb/Passat) possibly no needs to add special Dataset

I don't want to "spam" this topic with pACC related questions, but I can help you with the retrofit, just start new thread and mention me, we can elaborate on that  

And regarding the heated windscreen, I never used it, I use always auxiliary heater, but I think, that if someone is in hurry and forgot to turn on auxiliary heater, the heated windscreen will be very appreciated at the time  

Edited 12 June, 20214 yr by Krosta
Specification of information

For the doubters we have had four five cars with them, while not as good as a webasto/kenlowe for defrosting it is way better than waiting for the engine to warm up.  Start engine, put front and rear screens on, put heated seats on, clear side windscreens with scraper, get in and drive away.

 

They are also brilliant on those occasions when humidity is high (e.g. wet coats in car) and the screen starts steaming up as you are driving, literally clears in seconds - way faster than the aircon can clear it.

 

 

Edited 15 June, 20214 yr by IJWS15

Parts 1 and 2 mentioned by Gazz didn't come with terminals on the end - just 'extension wires'

I think I'll be needing 2x of his part 4 repair wire with terminals - one for the relay, and the other for use under the scuttle panel, connecting into the windshield positive connectors (part 3 on his list)

 

since I couldn't find a fusebox from a superb with a heated windshield, I also had to buy

 

relay 4h0951253A (I found one on ebay, but could have bought from TPS)

conduit sleeve to protect the 0.5mm wires to relay as they route through the engine bay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260898991871

1.0mm striped yellow/red wire (from BCM module to engine bay relay) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253731792838?var=553001605837

1.0mm striped red/yellow wire (from relay to interior fuse box) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253460445066?var=552635944043

000 979 027E 6mm tails for relay plate ( I already used Gazz' part 4 repair wire for the windshield connectors, as I said above, I think he's forgotten to list a second one)
000 979 021E 0.5mm tails with connector pins for relay plate
000 979 424E 6mm tails for fuse with connector pins

 

57 minutes ago, AlVal said:

Parts 1 and 2 mentioned by Gazz didn't come with terminals on the end - just 'extension wires'

I think I'll be needing 2x of his part 4 repair wire with terminals - one for the relay, and the other for use under the scuttle panel, connecting into the windshield positive connectors (part 3 on his list)

 

since I couldn't find a fusebox from a superb with a heated windshield, I also had to buy

 

relay 4h0951253A (I found one on ebay, but could have bought from TPS)

conduit sleeve to protect the 0.5mm wires to relay as they route through the engine bay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260898991871

1.0mm striped yellow/red wire (from BCM module to engine bay relay) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253731792838?var=553001605837

1.0mm striped red/yellow wire (from relay to interior fuse box) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253460445066?var=552635944043

000 979 027E 6mm tails for relay plate ( I already used Gazz' part 4 repair wire for the windshield connectors, as I said above, I think he's forgotten to list a second one)
000 979 021E 0.5mm tails with connector pins for relay plate
000 979 424E 6mm tails for fuse with connector pins

 

Sorry pal that was a miss type, I did use 2x number 4, I went off all the invoices I could find but that one was missing! 
 

sounds good so far what you’ve done! Have all the part numbers been good so far for you?? 

5 minutes ago, gazz3000 said:

Sorry pal that was a miss type, I did use 2x number 4, I went off all the invoices I could find but that one was missing! 
 

sounds good so far what you’ve done! Have all the part numbers been good so far for you?? 

Yes Thanks, 

 

just a couple of things for anyone else attempting this - 

 

I looked at etka to see if there were any parts I might be missing, and I thought I needed more parts which I bought but were unneccessary:

 

compatible interior mirror - check if your existing rear view mirror is 3g0 857 511 AD, if its already this one, you won't need to change it

 

3g0 862 505 camera heater came already fitted as part of the windscreen

4m0 845 543 retaining clip to hold the interior mirror onto the glass, again came as part of the windscreen so I bought unneccessarily

the existing rain sensor gets re-used, but to re-use it, my windscreen fitter said 'you need a new gel pack to re-use it, but don't worry I have one', I think it's some gel blob that goes between the sensor and the glass.

 

About to go and figure out how to get access to the firewall grommet to get the thin cables through from bcm and interior fuse box to the engine bay relay. Did you have to remove the battery or anything to get access to get to that grommet?

 

 

 

Yes mate, see the photo attached! House cable rod straight through the grommet was the perfect diameter to take the two cables, also make sure you go high up on the groomer that way when the water runs off the screen and out of the scuttle it won’t make its was into the cabin!