Hi all,

2008 1.4 fabia greenline tdi. 

Last MOT car passed but tester mentioned he was in two minds whether to fail on handbrake. He passed car but said handbrake lever  had long travel, but worked. Strangely he didn't put an advisory on the certificate. Next MOT due April.

So this being my first skoda and fabia my question is what is acceptable handbrake travel on a fabia? I've just tried it, on 6 clicks car won't move, rock solid.  It then has 1 further click available.  Would this constitute a pass?

At the back of my mind didn't the parameters change from amount of clicks allowed to actual handbrake performance a few years ago?

Any advice gratefully received.

 

Regardless of what the test parameters are you have a problem with your handbrake which will only get worse and you only have one click of reserve travel according to you.

 

How do you even know that it has one more click? In my 45 years of motoring (of which the first 40 cars were complete dogs) the only time I have known how many clicks are available is when the cable has snapped.

 

What you have is not acceptable and should be repaired ASAP.

 

If your footbrake went nearly to the floor before the vehicle braked to a stop would you say its OK because if you push harder there is another 1/2" of pedal travel before hitting the floor?

Edited 7 March, 20215 yr by J.R.

13 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

What you have is not acceptable and should be repaired ASAP.

 

 

Nonsense, I have adjusted our 09 Fabia for the same amount of clicks. Plenty still in reserve. 

 

If MOT  was done at Skoda, they love to say handbrake needs adjusting, told me it should be 2 clicks. Only £30 please.

 

Bull**** , its a 2 minute job to adjust the T bar at the handbrake end for any clicks you want.

 

At 2 clicks for full on, the brake may/probably will still drag when released. And if its prone to sticking on after its parked and it rains like most Fabias do, 2 clicks is far worse than 6 clicks, because of lack of cable and lever movement in the rear drums, means it seizes up quicker.

I have to agree.......

 

6 clicks is "high" in my opinion and you say it does not move, it's a different kettle of fish when the roller brake tester is trying to turn the wheels or your parked on a 45° slope

 

For me it shows cable stretch which is a normal occurence over time, so it needs adjusting up to "hold" the vehicle ideally on about 4

 

 

5 minutes ago, xman said:

 

Nonsense, I have adjusted our 09 Fabia for the same amount of clicks. Plenty still in reserve. 

 

If MOT  was done at Skoda, they love to say handbrake needs adjusting, told me it should be 2 clicks. Only £30 please.

 

Bull**** , its a 2 minute job to adjust the T bar at the handbrake end for any clicks you want.

 

At 2 clicks for full on, the brake may/probably will still drag when released. And if its prone to sticking on after its parked and it rains like most Fabias do, 2 clicks is far worse than 6 clicks, because of lack of cable and lever movement in the rear drums, means it seizes up quicker.

deffo not a 2 min job if youve got the arm rest lol

Pull the rear storage bin out behind the handbrake to reveal the T bar. Use a small open ended 10mm spanner to adjust the cable travel.

 

Not sure about armrest, my car doesn't have one.

 

I adjusted mine so brake only starts to apply on 3 clicks and is full hard on at 5 to 6 clicks. No comment at MOT.

 

Its good to check the T bar from time to time as you can see if there is any imbalance in the 2 handbrake cables, the T bar will then be skew whiff when the handbrake is applied. (That can also be down to drum brake issues)

 

What clicks you want is up to you, if the MOT guy said its too much, just adjust it.

Edited 7 March, 20215 yr by xman

40 minutes ago, xman said:

 

Nonsense, I have adjusted our 09 Fabia for the same amount of clicks. Plenty still in reserve. 

 

 

The OP stated in an authorative manner that there was one more click left in reserve, are you saying that there are many more?

I think this will end up going knowhere.....

 

if it passes an MOT its ok, but that is the "minimum" standard, not the "best" scenario.

 

I doubt you would ever get in a new car with a manual handbrake and get 6 clicks out of the handbrake without pulling a hernia !!

Thanks for the replies. 

Jeez JR, wind your neck in I only asked for advice which I thought was the point of a forum, your reply was a bit aggressive. 

Xman and Urban Panzer thanks, what you say makes sense. 

Handbrake has been sticking for a while, but I strip brakes every year to clean up, drums and shoes have plenty of life.

Car has full Skoda service history from previous owner ( can you believe £144 to change pads?) , no record of cable change.

I'll try the adjustment you suggested.

For reference

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk2/chassis/brake_brake_mechanics/handbrake/setting_the_hand-brake/setting_the_hand-brake_drum_brake/

 

Thanks xman for the reference. I had found that already, most advice I've read says slacken handbrake cable, sort brake shoe adjustment then adjust cable . 

Had an MOT failure years ago on rear drums simply because they never really got used ; ie car is only used on motorway, no stop/ start. 5 mins with some sandpaper to remove glaze, car passed. Lesson learned. 

Clean brakes up every year now, and ensure shoes adjusted to drums but I've never adjusted the cable on the fabia, so maybe it's just that it needs.

Was just curious why no advisory on test cert , should have asked him at time, but with Covid small talk not encouraged.

59 minutes ago, Cheapas said:

Thanks for the replies. 

Jeez JR, wind your neck in I only asked for advice which I thought was the point of a forum, your reply was a bit aggressive. 

 

A bit aggressive eh?

 

I shall heed your warning and take it that my advice was not gratefully recieved.

Rear drums are a pain, especially during the winter with damp conditions. Shoe condition even when you've checked it recently means very little. I took my Fabia to 100k miles and lost count of the number adjustments that I made. In the end the MOT tester suggested the actual drums were worn, so putting on new shoes wouldn't solve it.

 

Back to the dilemma, adjusting the yolk under the arm-rest will take up the slack, but important to note with the handbrake applied, does it pull off centre? New handbrake cables would help as the old ones are probably stretched. Also take a look at the rear brake cylinders. These things can leak which contaminate the shoes. I'd also look at the automatic adjustment, as it should self adjust - it's probably seized. If you opt for a rebuild, then the springs are available as a serviceable item.

 

Unless you live on a hill, stick the car in gear and leave the handbrake off.

4 hours ago, Cheapas said:

Hi all,

2008 1.4 fabia greenline tdi. 

Last MOT car passed but tester mentioned he was in two minds whether to fail on handbrake. He passed car but said handbrake lever  had long travel, but worked. Strangely he didn't put an advisory on the certificate. Next MOT due April.

So this being my first skoda and fabia my question is what is acceptable handbrake travel on a fabia? I've just tried it, on 6 clicks car won't move, rock solid.  It then has 1 further click available.  Would this constitute a pass?

At the back of my mind didn't the parameters change from amount of clicks allowed to actual handbrake performance a few years ago?

Any advice gratefully received.

 

 

This is a MASSIVE fuss about nothing, the handbrake is fine, you have a fresh MOT and no advisories so the car is fine, relax.

fresh MOT ?? its not due till April........he's asking before taking for this years MOT

https://thepanicmechanic.com/2016/05/20/how-to-handbrake-adjustment/#:~:text=The average number of handbrake,your rear brakes to drag.

Thanks for all the replies and advice. To bore you all more car does 2 x 65 mile trips a week to and from work , mainly motorway, early hours or late night. Then dumped in yard/ road. Past 3 cars all had rear drum set up, never had to replace drums /shoes due to actual wear in 15 years unless contaminated by occasional leaking wheel cylinder. With the mileage and type of journeys I do there is no real wear from the backs.

MOT is due April this year , so no fresh ticket yet.

Spartacus 68: Thanks, and yes with all previous cars if left safely used to leave in gear, handbrake off. Tip I picked up in Germany in 80s, it was used to prevent brakes freezing on in winter. 

Wanted to carry this on with the Fabia, but I'm sure I read somewhere on here that this can lead to slack in the balance chain if left parked in gear. This is way above my knowledge , so if anyone more knowledge could advise please do. 

I found buried in the service history it has had a new balance shaft fitted at 3 years old , presumably under warranty.

Hi Sepulchrave,

Thanks, read that. So according to that , above 8 bad, below 5 bad mine then at 6 clicks is perfect!??

As I said tester passed it like this last year , it's just his comment that confused me. 

1 minute ago, Cheapas said:

Hi Sepulchrave,

Thanks, read that. So according to that , above 8 bad, below 5 bad mine then at 6 clicks is perfect!??

As I said tester passed it like this last year , it's just his comment that confused me. 

 

Yes perfect.

 

Fresh MOT next month no problem.

 

Mechanics are easy to understand, they just want free money.

as long as it makes the required effort / percentage, it will pass the MOT........however still disagree with the blog, not perfect.........to slack in my opinion and Mr VAG disagrees to.

 

workshop manual states to set so it holds on 4, link was posted earlier.

 

Hey ho each to their own.

Edited 7 March, 20215 yr by UrbanPanzer

Regarding leaving the car in gear and handbrake off, you have to be very careful on VAG cars fitted with camchain engines, particularly the infamous 1.2 tsi but also 1.2 htp engines.

 

Due to the layout of the chain and tensioner, if the engine crankshaft is for some reason rotated backwards, the hydraulic tensioner side of the chain is pulled abnormally tight and can force the hydraulic tensioner to retract so slackening the other side of the chain, allowing it to become loose and drop on the bottom sprocket. This can lead to the chain trying to climb or jumping the bottom sprocket when starting the car. It would then rattle loudly on start, at worst the chain will jump a tooth or even come off with disastrous results.

 

So if you want to park in gear,  on a gradient, if the car is nose down, choose 1st gear, if it is nose up, choose reverse gear. On the flat, I don't think its a good idea to park in gear as you don't know which way the engine is being forced.

 

I believe the highway code states you must leave the car parked with handbrake applied (on a public road). You can also use the advice of turning the steering such that if the car were to roll, the car would move into the kerb, thereby stopping any further movement. But I guess you probably know all that.

 

TIP(s): if you ever do hear a loud chain rattle on start, switch off immediately and after 3-4 seconds, try restarting. Hopefully the tensioner will have extended that little bit and the chain is held in a better position on the sprocket. Seems to work for me whenever I've encountered this alarming situation (many times on 1.2tsi)

 

If I think the chain is slack before I start (e.g. after changing the oil) what I do as a precaution is put the car in an appropriate gear, e.g. 1st and physically nudge the car forward a bit, to rotate the engine in the correct direction a little and so tension the critical side of the chain, before trying to start. Hope you understand what I'm babbling on about.....

 

Note: This whole chain issue seems more of a problem on the later gen camchain engines that use inverted tooth chains (aka silent chains). The earlier engines (mk1 and pre FL mk2 up to 2009) use a conventional roller chain that seems better in this respect, possibly they can tolerate a bit more slack in the chain/sprocket interface than inverted tooth.

 

OP has a 2008 1.4 tdi, not sure if thats camchain, but same issue may apply.

 

(Sorry for going a bit off OT)

 

Edited 8 March, 20215 yr by xman

Thanks all. Before car is tested I'll Jack back axle up and have a play to see if I can get the click number down. Yesterday just rocking car at click 5 was barely moving, click six solid. Appreciate tho not on rolling road.

Car has cambelt fitted but also balance shaft and chain. Apparently the balance shaft can be the weak spot on these engines, (plastic construction) which the chain wears away. Think the engine is fitted to certain Audi cars, plenty of horror stories on their A2/A3 ? forums about the balance shaft/chain failure.

Somewhere on here or the Audi forum is a post from a very clever chap detailing with photos how he changed his balance shaft and chain at home, just wow.

 

apologies to hijack this thread but was wondering if this applys to my car too? thinking about doing the same. so i just take the panel off behind the handbrake?

As a slight aside, I had a Saab many many years ago, where the handbrake worked on the front wheels, with the left cable going to the right caliber and vice-versa. Come MOT time, the tester said exactly the same thing-handbrake cables too slack. I disagreed saying I had set them to Saab's defined perimeters, around 7 clicks and we had a somewhat disagree-able discussion but the outcome was he "Let it go" And passed me. Now, I kwow he did not "Let it go" And had he done so, I could quite rightly complain to the persons responsible for over being tests but who in the world, complains they passed the test?

 

Back to the current situation, although the adjustment may be more then desirable, it is NOT outside working tolerance and if the brake works sufficiently, there should be no need to fail or possibly even advise BUT testers all have a slightly differing opinion and are trained to do "Typical" vehicles, not necessarily specific ones. That does not make them right, it does not also make them instant money grabbers. In my years of experience, I find most mechanics, etc now try to be fair as they would rather have your repeat custom and your recommendation to others, then you swearing never to use them again and bad-mouthing them to all and sundry!

 

Your handbrake should be ok but there is no harm in giving it a little week. It will help you learn more about the function, maintenance and use of the vehicle, if nothing else.

 

BTW, Proper function of the handbrake, should mean you pull it up to tension, with the button pushed in (As when lowering it)  And NOT use the clicking mechanism as a function. This can lead to wear on the teeth of the unit and premature failure. Thats just me, being pedantic.

 

 

Hi mrgf 

Thanks for the info. 

I've used the same garage 14 years for MOTs,  and I trust them not to manufacture work. On the rare fail they've always explained why and even given advice on how to fix it myself. 

Told me once they had no need to manufacture as always busy with work. Having said that he did fail me once after putting wheel on wrong side  (rotation direction wrong ) !

Out of curiosity is the ULEZ going to affect you? Will you have to change cars?