Hi, I own a Fabia 2007 mk1 1.4 Elegance and am also new to the forum. I've not come across this issue in the forums. Hopefully someone can assist me with this nightmare i'm having.

To cut a long story short, both front windows were not working, i've replaced drivers side motor (and regulator due to the motor housing snapping off) and replaced passenger side window switch. So far all checks carried out wiring, fuses, reading through majority of the forums and trying out all of the suggestions people have given.

 

Now, I came across this issue by chance. Whilst i was trying the key in door reset and unlocked the door, i started it up and the windows seem to operate (only operates when unlocking the car using the key manually), drivers side only from driver switch and passenger side from passenger switch (passenger side not working from drivers switch). The windows will only operate for a short period of time, 5mins or so then go dead. Any ideas what this could be? Seems like it needs a reset of some sort but i could be wrong.

 

Also the key in door reset method does not allow the windows to open/close i have also tried using the spare to see if it works with the car running as suggested on a different thread.

 

Thanks in advance🙏🏼

Was the replacement motor a new or secondhand item? What were the full part numbers of original and replacement?

Have you looked at the wiring in the door bellows either/both side(s)?

Do you get an audible warning if you go to exit the car with the lights left on?

If you pull and then replace fuse 11 while engine is running do the windows start working? (If so, is that just for 5 mins?)

 

This is an area I'm trying to learn more about. The only thing I've really noticed so far is that there was a significant change in Oct 2004. Prior to it both front window modules communicated with the 'car' by CAN. Afterwards they communicate with each other by LIN, and don't connect in to the CAN bus.  I guess part numbers, and physical connections prevent mismatching between these systems; not confirmed this yet.

 

 

Edited 10 March, 20215 yr by Wino

Hi Wino, the replacement part is a second hand one with what i thought was same part number replacement is 6Y1959802, old part no 6Y2959802. Could this be a factor?

 

Yes wiring and usual checks have all been done. 

 

Yes, The chime does work

 

No, just tried removing and re-inserting fuse 11 with engine running, does nothing for the window

Let me look into the part number situation a bit, I think it may be relevant.

This is the page for window motor part numbers for 2007 Fabia mk1. individual parts; for models with electrically op... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com)

6Y2959802 is correct for driver's door on RHD cars (with just front electric windows).

6Y1959802 is given as the part for passenger door LHD (cars with just front electric windows).

So physically for the same door, but functionally not necessarily the same.  I think the suffix SK1 etc. may also be relevant, what is it on the two parts (original/replacement) you have?

 

That may not be the issue, but it's the first thing I would try given the other things you've checked.

 

Confusingly, the part numbering for 9N3 Polo of the same age doesn't follow the same pattern. Same part number set but scrambled with respect to which bits go where on LHD and RHD cars. Doing my head in a bit.

4 hours ago, Wino said:

This is the page for window motor part numbers for 2007 Fabia mk1. individual parts; for models with electrically op... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com)

6Y2959802 is correct for driver's door on RHD cars (with just front electric windows).

6Y1959802 is given as the part for passenger door LHD (cars with just front electric windows).

So physically for the same door, but functionally not necessarily the same.  I think the suffix SK1 etc. may also be relevant, what is it on the two parts (original/replacement) you have?

 

That may not be the issue, but it's the first thing I would try given the other things you've checked.

 

Confusingly, the part numbering for 9N3 Polo of the same age doesn't follow the same pattern. Same part number set but scrambled with respect to which bits go where on LHD and RHD cars. Doing my head in a bit.

Do you have a wiring diagram for the electric windows circuit ?. Or a schematic of the motor ?.

 

I have 2 motors that work on the bench, but will only operate for a few minutes in the car. 

 

May end up making my own loom to bypass the factory circuit.

Only the first of those. I don't think schematics of the motor module will be available anywhere outside of VW group, if they even have them.

 

The  car wiring diagrams for both the earlier and later versions can both be found via the erWin Skoda site, though you have to pay a small fee for access.  The early version is available in the CFD documents within this link , but they aren't the right ones for your 2006 nor the OP's 2007 car unfortunately.

 

As well as a difference in the way the modules communicate with each other and/or the car as a whole, there seems to be a different arrangement from fuse 11. (some incorrect stuff deleted form here)

 

What are the full part numbers of your motors? Photo of labels ideally. Is one of them the factory original from your car?

 

I wonder if the most pragmatic, simplest solution is to put a beefy switch in series with the main power feed to the drivers side module so it can be 're-awakened' by cycling the power to it whenever the windows need adjustment.  Sounds very crude, and would need a suitably rated switch.  I was hoping that disconnecting fuse 11 might have the same effect, but the OP seems to have demonstrated that this isn't the case.

Edited 10 March, 20215 yr by Wino

Thanks for the info man. Yes making the main power for the motors switchable does sound like a workable solution. Could also have power disconnected/reconnect via a relay, activated by the factory switch.

 

This is my other d/s motor (1 of 2) confirmed working. But will only work for a few minutes when connected to the door loom. 

Yep, that's the right part, as far as I understand it.

I can't help feeling I'm missing something obvious. 

I think after dinner I'll tabulate the wiring to the two connectors on each door module for the later arrangement.  That may trigger some ideas in me or someone else.

The LIN data connection goes from pin 3 of the 8-way connector on the driver's side module to pin 3 of the  8-way on the passenger door module (and nowhere else), which might be an important one to continuity check end-to-end. Grey/white all the way.

Edited 10 March, 20215 yr by Wino

That table's going to take longer than I've got patience for this evening, tomorrow hopefully. 

2 hours ago, Wino said:

Yep, that's the right part, as far as I understand it.

I can't help feeling I'm missing something obvious. 

I think after dinner I'll tabulate the wiring to the two connectors on each door module for the later arrangement.  That may trigger some ideas in me or someone else.

The LIN data connection goes from pin 3 of the 8-way connector on the driver's side module to pin 3 of the  8-way on the passenger door module (and nowhere else), which might be an important one to continuity check end-to-end. Grey/white all the way.

Do any of the window systems show up in vagcom ?. Must be some sort of voltage or resistance test that happens after the circuit is first powered, then fails after a few minutes not allowing motors to operate.

 

Just waiting on some more part to arrive before i start on my window circuit. If i get a working system ill share my findings.

Edited 10 March, 20215 yr by Gt4thomas

Don't think VCDS can see anything to do with these unfortunately. 

Let's see if this works. Please read the bit at the top before saying "mine isn't wired like that" if you have a car these tables don't apply to.

Note there are a few connections that I don't yet know the functions of, WIP.  Abbreviations in the 'via' column like A-4w2 mean "4-way connector at the a-pillar, pin 2"

Note also that this hasn't been thoroughly checked, and I may have made mistakes.

 

 

 

Mk1 Fabia Door Control unit wiring.docx

Edited 12 March, 20215 yr by Wino
New version of doc uploaded with corrections/additions

In the passenger side unit info, the bits where it says F220 should say F221, the passenger side lock unit. (copy paste error from driver's side info).

And where it says 'key lock/unlock sig(nal)', it probably shouldn't say key, as there's probably not a key barrel there

 

Will edit the doc tomorrow, and hopefully add some more info/understanding.

Edited 11 March, 20215 yr by Wino

13 hours ago, Wino said:

In the passenger side unit info, the bits where it says F220 should say F221, the passenger side lock unit. (copy paste error from driver's side info).

And where it says 'key lock/unlock sig(nal)', it probably shouldn't say key, as there's probably not a key barrel there

 

Will edit the doc tomorrow, and hopefully add some more info/understanding.

Will have a read through when i load up the computer later. 

 

Im thinking to bypass this relay for my circuit im designing for version 1. Ill probably mount the new switches in the blanks in the dash.  (Motor control board pictured)

Not sure it can be that simple. Wish I had a window module on the bench I could look at, but doesn't the relay have to be able to reverse the polarity of the power to the motor? (For up and down window movement)

And you'd lose any 'stop at the end of possible travel' function wouldn't you?

Id be using 2 external 5 pin relays to switch polarity. Im starting with basic stuff first. Id be leaving all the factory connections intact (may bring it to life). 

 

Yes making sure the window doesn't go to far is a concern. If i cant get something working id have a look at your idea of setting up a switched power to motor to replicate the battery being disconnected.

I wonder if you could fit a reset button that interrupted (for as long as it's held) the output of the 5V regulator on the board? Might be sufficient ? 

I've ripped out all the electronics and used a universal window switch to switch the polarity of the motor.

I've only had it installed a few days but it seems to be holding up so far.

43 minutes ago, Wino said:

I wonder if you could fit a reset button that interrupted (for as long as it's held) the output of the 5V regulator on the board? Might be sufficient ? 

Sounds spot on to me. Ive just been out to the car, no power windows, disconnect power to the motor then reconnect windows come back to life. 

 

I think a reset/interrupt switch would work

On 12/03/2021 at 12:12, Wino said:

I wonder if you could fit a reset button that interrupted (for as long as it's held) the output of the 5V regulator on the board? Might be sufficient ? 

Well i made a small interrupt circuit. It was wired so that while the  switch was pressed the main motor power would be disconnected. Didn't work 😔.

 

(Put in a little tac switch and everything)

The quest continues....

 

@Ferrit's solution seems like an economical fix if it's still holding out? 

 

I've put up a Wanted advertisement on here for non-working motor modules, hoping to spot something if I have a few to look at and try to run.  Nothing visually on the first one I've examined minutely, though I've only looked at the circuit board so far, not even tested the motor alone.

 

I bypassed the relay so will get power direct to motor. Just waiting on some more bits from china.