Hi

Has anybody else had a similiar problem to this:-

I have a 1999 Octavia, 1.8T 20V. Recently when driving the speedo, rev counter, petrol gauge and temp gauge die and come back to life. This happens for seconds. However today it seems to have got worse and stayed dead for longer. I have lifted the bonnet 'wiggled' varies wires around, but have yet to find the one or ones that may be loose or broken.

My thinking is that it may be something to do with the electrical connections to the throtle body. Until I had the car serviced recently I didn't have this problem. For what ever reason the garage played around with the throtle body, is it possible that there is an electrical connention at this point that would effect all four dials on the dash?

Thank you in advance for any advice given.

Regards

JCT

Other members' experiences with similar problems would point towards a replacement instrument cluster being needed. Not cheap, unfortunately. :(

Hi DWG

Thanks for the info, is this a common problem with Skoda/VW/Seat?

JCT

Hi DWG

Thanks for the info' date=' is this a common problem with Skoda/VW/Seat?

JCT[/quote']

Not really a common problem on the Octavia but the Audi TT (also based on a Golf) has huge problems with the "dash pod"

Thanks for the info, is this a common problem with Skoda/VW/Seat?

It is not a common fault on this forum - just a known one.

Hi, I have the same problem !! I thing that the reason is some "cold soldering '' on the print circuit board.

cracked joints or dry joints prehaps.

You will get a poor contact if the pins and board are not up to temp when you apply the solder to the board.

Guess if you are willing you could take the thing out inspect the circuits and reflow the solder joints that look a bit off. I'd guess the power circuits would be the first place to look.

cracked joints or dry joints prehaps.

You will get a poor contact if the pins and board are not up to temp when you apply the solder to the board.

Guess if you are willing you could take the thing out inspect the circuits and reflow the solder joints that look a bit off. I'd guess the power circuits would be the first place to look.

:iagree: If I was you, I remove the instrument cluster and disasemble it. There are 2 big conectors on the back of the instrument cluster. Maybe there is a pin on the female conectors on the instrument PC Board that have a cold/craked solder joint and is making a intermitent conection and thats why your instrument sometimes work..............Maybe is a faulty ground.

If you have installed a car radio, amplifier, or a car alarm before, this should be a easy job for you. If you are not comfortable working with it, I recommend you find a qualified individual to help you with this.

Good luck

Isaac

Would be really good to find out why they are failing and if it is a dry or cracked joint where are taking it out and soldering it it a few pence job and a new pod is in the hundreds.

Have similar problem but now all gauges NEVER work. Have had it into Skoda garage and paid them

Have similar problem but now all gauges NEVER work. Have had it into Skoda garage and paid them

Has anybody got an old failed dash pod that they no longer use.

I'd be really keen to disassemble one of these and find out what part or parts have failed. I'm sure whatever it is will be a lot cheaper than £600 to fix.

I am pretty sure it has to be a loose conector or a cold/craked solder joint inside the instrument cluster.

What about getting a new one from a junk yard or just remove it and check it out.

Check the two conectors on the back of the instrument cluster. I think one is blue and the other is green. Here is a pic of the back.

To remove the instrument cluster is very easy. Here are some pics in order that you check it out. Eaven that they show the steering wheel removed, YOU DONT NEED TO REMOVE IT. Follow pic S70-0161 and S70-0162

If for any reason, you need to remove the cover PIC S70-0164. There is a screw that is hidden under the head light swith........So make sure to take out the Head light swith first in order that you can remove that screw so you can take out the cover

Good luck, and make sure to take pictures for us:D

Isaac

Thanks very much - that's a lot of efforrt you've put into helping us, it's much appreciated.

I'm not much of a mechanic but I might give it a go.

I'm also trying to push out a bump on the back door but am finding it almost impossible to remove the door trim. I've taken out all the screws, removed the window winder and the single screw in behind the speaker at the lock but I don't know why it won't now come off. It seems to be that the door handle splits in 2 but if I try to prise it open with any more force it feels like something will snap - any ideas?

If somebody can get a non working pod to me that they don't mind loosing I'll have a good going over it. If i find anything i'll fix it up and give it back to you, hopefully working, and post the results up here.

Removed the instrument panel last night and disconnetcted the wiring, shook it about a bit then re-connected but no joy. Looks like I'll need to go to the scrappy and buy a second-hand instrument panel and hope that that's the problem.

There is another thread along the same lines as this one.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octavia/instrument-display-intermittent-fault-octavia/61077/?highlight=instrument+panel

Removed the instrument panel last night and disconnetcted the wiring, shook it about a bit then re-connected but no joy. Looks like I'll need to go to the scrappy and buy a second-hand instrument panel and hope that that's the problem.

There is another thread along the same lines as this one.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octavia/instrument-display-intermittent-fault-octavia/61077/?highlight=instrument+panel

So if you keep the 2 wirings connectors NOT connected to the instrument cluster, Do the engine start???

Also, do you have a friend that also have a Octavia? Maybe you can remove his cluster and try it on yours to see if it work or try yours on the other Octavia to see to see if work.

Also, the best thing you can do is to take your cluster to a electronic guy so he can open it and check the PC Board for a loose a cut trace, bad solder or cold sorder.

So do my instrucction pics help you to remove the cluster?

Isaac

Isn't the imobiliser linked to the cluster.

If you just get one from a scrapper you are stuck. Also the thing will always show the scrapped cars mileage.

If you do get a second hand one and depending where you are, would you mind dropping the broken one in my direction so i could try and find out where this fault is. Obviously if i fixed it i would return it to you for the postage cost.

Isn't the imobiliser linked to the cluster.

If you just get one from a scrapper you are stuck.

Thats why I ask if he keep the 2 wirings connectors NOT connected to the instrument cluster, Do the engine start???

Isaac

Went to local scrap merchant on Saturday morning and removed instrument panel from Octavia (£30). Have fitted it and petrol gauge and rev counter now work ok but the immobiliser now doesn't allow the car to start. I think I need to take it into Skoda dealer for them to re-programme the keys - unless anyone knows better!

By the way, I wouldn't mind posting my old instrument panel out to you but I'll keep a hold of it until I get the problem resolved as it looks like I'll need to put it back in to get the car to start.

I'm going out to car just now to see if car will start without instrumenty panel attached.

Car doesn't start with instrument panel disconnected. Spoke on phone to 2 auto electricians who say I need to take into Skoda dealer for them to re-programme. Have had to put old panel back in to get car to start and I'll take into Skoda on Monday. Will keep you posted regarding the outcome.

I Have Same Prob Firstly With Speedo Now With Fuel Gauge My Local Dealer Said Fault Was With The Gearbox And To Strip It Down And Service It I Said Could It Be Electrical They Said No But Your Prob Seems Very Similar Would Like To Know How It Turns Out

Any luck with your car, the leccy specialist at work has volunteered to have a look at the thing for me which is even better

Hi JCT,

The fault on my Octavia is identical to the one that you have described, and I have posted two other threads on the website concerning it.

I find it most interesting, what you have to say about the electrical connections to the throttle body, and it is food for thought, as I have tried all other ways to cure the problem with no luck.

I will fish out the Haynes manual again, in case you are on to something.

I hope that you get yours sorted soon.

Kind regards

Soviet

it may be unrelated in this case, but i have seen clusters with cracked solder joints on the back of the wiring harness connectors. You will have to dismantle the cluster to get at them to check though. In my case it was a power connection, which of course inevitably means the cluster won't work.

Well as i have stated before on this thread, if somebody can get me a busted cluster I have a person who is fairly sure she can fix any soldering problems or damaged electronic components.