I've had the dreaded slave cylinder failure on my Octavia (who thought that putting a slave cylinder inside the gearbox was a good idea?) Just put 12 months MOT on it with new rear bearings, front drive shafts and rear shocks it's got good tyres too.

   My question is how good is a single mass flywheel conversion on the 6 speed 4x4 box? Up to now I've done everything on it myself but without access to a workshop this is probably too much for me as I'm aware just how much of a PITA this job will be and replacing with a duel mass kit just isn't viable. Thanks for any advice.

Can I add that I have read through the thread on this topic but there's little information on the 4x4 6 speed box other than 1 person saying they came with smf as standard and others saying skoda doesn't recommend the conversion.

  If you can't do it then why do they manufacture the conversion kit for this gearbox? Anyone with any first hand experience?

I believe that you will have resonance problems and geartrain chatter with a single mass flywheel on the 6 speed transmission, not just poor NVH but enough to cause gear damage, for that reason I replaced mine (same slave cylinder problem) with another DMF flywheel clutch kit.

 

As daunting as the job was it was no more than a slightly longer than usual DIY clutch job, I borrowed a friends pit and would recommend a vehicle lift but it could be done with jacks and axle stands, a 20 year younger version of myself that could still focus on close objects in poor light would have done it laying on their back.

 

The only special tool I would say is pretty much essential is an engine support crossmember, using ratchet straps around it makes removing the 68kg gearbox/diff/transfer box a safer prospect, a standard 5 speed non 4x4 box I would lift out on my chest & replace using my shins but not this hippo.

 

Its a days work taken at a slow pace with plenty of pauses for reflection, the labour hours that garages charge for the job are an exaggeration if I can do it in 30% less working very slowly with it being unknown and my being very rusty, at least 18 years since anything similar but without the 4x4 complication.

 

I bet you have not noticed any fluid loss and when you remove the old slave cylinder it will be as clean as a whistle, if you cannot work out how it could get air in whilst under a constant head of pressure without leaking any fluid ask me and I will point you to the culprit, I wont say yet because I would be interested to hear yours or the mechanics conclusion.

Dual mass clutch kit for mine cost €320 delivered from Italy.

T

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Thanks for your answer J.R. there's a little puddle of fluid under the bell housing and it gradually lost clutch before the pedal dropped to the floor and wouldn't pump up so pretty indicative of a failed slave I think? I've found a Sachs full DMF kit with slave cylinder for £281.22 from part's in motion or a set from GSF for £286.20 so not too bad considering the local garage wanting £400+ for part's! God knows what a main stealer would want. There's plenty of videos out there on changing out the 6 speed box but I can't find anything on the 4x4 version, it would be nice to know what I'm getting myself into before I start somehow I think it will be harder than the 300tdi I did a couple of years ago.

 

The front subframe needs to be dropped with the steering rack and anti-roll bar hanging, the latter held up with tywraps or whatever.

 

It is easier to remove the gearbox complete with transfer box but it adds significantly to the weight hence my using ratchet straps around it running over the engine support crossbeam, under a vehicle lift a transmission jack would do the business, as I was in a pit we laid an alu support platform from my decorating platform under it so it could be slid out. In fact we should have just left it under the car as it was only 15 minutes to swap the clutch & DMF.

 

Other than the weight, the need to drop the crossmember and unbolt the front propshaft coupling there is no extra work or complications with the 4WD system, from memory the gerabox is withdrawn slightly & then has to be rotated a bit to come out, the reverse for reassembly, if the transfer box is left in place this is not necessary nor unbolting the prop coupling, however you risk damaging the seals between the transfer box and gearbox and I reckon it would be a lot harder to align both the bellhousing to the engine and the gearbox to the transfer casing simultaneously.

 

yes it sounds like your slave cylinder seal has gone, I had to replace one at the side of the road today on a builders Transit RWD flatbed truck, external thankfully not a concentric one, it could not have been easier and I could have done it with simply a penknife to release the pipe connector spring clip, I had a hose clamp so I used it but the cylinder had a simple bayonet rotating fitment, release flexible hose, twist & remove old cylinder, push in and twist the new one, clip the hose back in place, open the bleed nipple by hand (knurled thumbgrip) wait for fluid to drip and close nipple, job done in less than 3 minutes!!!!

That's all good to know I've got a lovely 2 way hand winch so that should make lowering/raising the gearbox pretty easy and it definitely sounds like leaving the transfer box on is the way to go. At least having replaced both front props this year I know both will come out relatively easily.

      Slave cylinders by definition are a weak point in the clutch system a constant use rubber seal is always going to fail at some point so to my cynical mind these concentric slave cylinders are designed purely to make the dealerships money. A 10 minute job has been turned into several hours of graft...