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The car DOES NOT WANT TO PRODUCE ELECTRICITY

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Hello guy!

 

Remember when the belt jumped twice, and the broken tensioner...

 

Well.

 

 This time the battery light just came up, and when i lift the hood.. the belt was there, the tensioner too and the alternator was spinning (internally too)

But no electricity at all

 

 

No blown fuse...  any help?

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Brushes worn down too far to make good contact?

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12 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Brushes worn down too far to make good contact?

Alternator you mean?

The alternator is one year new.

 

But the output is 9.07v   i know that is not normal, but i am measuring it right. I put one probe at the engine block and the red one at the bolt in the rear of the alternator

 

 

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Yes, I did mean the alternator brushes, but it does seem hard to believe they could wear out completely in one year.

Voltage measurement technique sounds good.

 

 

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Do you have another battery you can fit, in case that  one has an internal short?

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18 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Do you have another battery you can fit, in case that  one has an internal short?

M.. no,  ut if that battery has an internal ahot, is it posaible to run?

 

I mean, the car is perfectly running on it's battery of course.

Was the alternator of good quality?

 

If the alternator was reconditioned it may have been bodged, such as using course sandpaper to clean the armature and stretching the springs for the carbon brushes by hand. This would result in the carbon brushes being pushed too hard onto a rough armature, resulting in the carbon brushes wearing out very quickly.

 

What is the voltage with the engine running, as measured directly on the battery terminals? Even an old battery that needs replacing, should read about 14.0V if the alternator is working properly.

 

Edited by Carlston

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8 hours ago, Carlston said:

Was the alternator of good quality?

 

If the alternator was reconditioned it may have been bodged, such as using course sandpaper to clean the armature and stretching the springs for the carbon brushes by hand. This would result in the carbon brushes being pushed too hard onto a rough armature, resulting in the carbon brushes wearing out very quickly.

 

What is the voltage with the engine running, as measured directly on the battery terminals? Even an old battery that needs replacing, should read about 14.0V if the alternator is working properly.

 

12.4 and decreasing

Check the connector for loose or burned terminals and the wiring for broken cores.

 

What preceeded the failure?

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1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Check the connector for loose or burned terminals and the wiring for broken cores.

 

What preceeded the failure?

All looks good

There was a small very quiet noise of bearing i guess, similar to a "white noise"

 

From two weeks ago.

 

The car was veey good then, suddently the battery light came up and instantly the engine felt lighter (without the load of the alternator) and that's why i thought  the belt was broken again

Are you certain that the alternator shaft is actually turning and not just the pulley?

 

Given the previous noises from the one way clutch and your description of what preceeded the failure it has to be a favorite suspect.

 

Generally you will not feel the load of the alternator, a difference in sound perhaps, the same for modern clutchless aircon unless it has low refrigerant.

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The culprit 

 

 

16541147207292398131512191076477.jpg

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Well done. :)

Indeed, congratulations!

 

The brushes look good but the arcing on the ring terminal tells me that the connection nut was loose.

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