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IDLING AT 1000RPM 😫


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Hi guys so had some hoses replaced and as far as the lumpyness on idle goes it's fixed but is now idling at 1000rpm 😫... when plugged in it is showing these codes....

 

17705- pressure drop between turbo and throttle valve 

 

16891- idle control system RPM higher than expected.

 

17544- fuel trim bank system too lean 

 

Any help or advice is appreciated as always 🙏

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Hi mate.. sorry for late reply.... my car is on a friend's drive so I've taken a pic off Google to show you which pipe was replaced...its booked in to vag car but they can't look at it until the 13th of July as they are so busy so it's a looooong wait. a friend of mine is suggesting it may be the pcv valve so I've orderd one today.. I'm hoping that's the culprit as its a cheap easy fix... I'm dreading the bill from vag car but on the other hand I'm ready to pay it as I miss the car so much 😔

 

 

Screenshot_20220623-192920_Google.jpg

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Which PCV valve have you ordered, the poppet valve by the oil filter, or the pancake valve by the recirc valve?.

 

Usually, when one of those hoses splits, the other one is not far behind.

 

It is highly possible that the throttle body may be heavily gunked up with rebreathing oil as well. Has anybody had it off to clean it at all?.

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I've read that about throttle body.. that's the next thing we will be trying too I've attached a pic of the pcv valve ive ordered... hopefully it does the trick. The first garage I went to seem to just give up... he got those 3 codes and said it could be 100 things and lost interest. It's frustrating to say the least

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Just be sure you use a new gasket if you remove the body to clean it, otherwise 17705 will be popping up forever.

 

Technically you should do a throttle body alignment if you remove the wiring connector and the move the throttle flap for any reason.

 

However, if you do not have vcds to do this, the way to do it is to remove the bolts and main air pipe, but leave the wiring on, then get a second person to have their foot flat to the floor with the ignition on to keep the flap open while you clean it. No throttle reset needed if you take your time and use some patience.

 

Can't see any pcv piccie I'm afraid, but hope the rest helps.

 

 

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After more inspecting today we found this pipe and the smaller pipe connected was cracked!.... could you tell me if this pipe not being connected via a smaller pipe to the hole in question (circled red) would cause my issues??? When i put my thumb in hole the engine seem to run better straight away!

20220628_100513.jpg

20220628_100523.jpg

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If that is a corrugated pipe in your hand, (not easy to see from the picture), then that is an sai pipe, one should go from the pump to the air box, the other should go to the combi valve that you have circled - see here - https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2003-252/1/131-131007/

 

Any unmetered air is going to give you running issues, and that will be a big one assuming it is standard.

 

 

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I've done some research since and yes the pipe in my hand is the pipe running from the sai... then between that and the combi valve is a smaller pipe and that was the one that was brittle and cracked so I've orderd a new one.... I didn't know whether that would cause running issues but when I filled the whole in the combi with my finger while the engine ran it then ran quiet and there was no shake anymore so I'm thinking it's got to be that!!..  I didn't realise how much the sai system can effect the engine! 

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The combi valve on the engine opens to allow extra air into the combustion process for when the engine is cold to aid emiisions. having no pipe there is going to be a big issue which it would appear you have found. looks like problem resolved once you get a pipe on. 👍

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