I must have ridden over a high kerb to spilt the plastic insert on the rear wheel I have tried Gorilla Superglue (shown by the white staining) and also Loctite Superglue but without luck as the material does not adhere. Can anyone advise what to use to secure the two surfaces?

I did something similar on our Honda Civic  many years ago and 'stuck' it back together with Tiger Seal.  It wasn't the prettyest of fixed and needed held in position for a while until it cured but it did the job...

Keep the two pieces joined using some duct or painter's tape at the front side. Then  get some black tie wraps and try to melt them using a soldering iron or a lighter over the line formed where the pieces meet each other, at the back side. The one that you will not see when you place the item back to place.

 

You may also try to use litlle metal bar pieces from a piece of scrapped wire. Grab one and hold it with a nose pliers and heat it red hot with a lighter. Then lay it in such way to touch both banks of the joint line and press it to get shoved into the plastic. Like stapling it. Repeat leaving a small gap between stitches until you cover the length of the damage. 

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A trick for instant glue jobs. When using instant glue pour some baking soda on top of glue. This makes the glue rock solid. 

 

 

 

Edited 9 September, 20223 yr by stratosg

Any rigid glue you use will break unless the area is prepped properly. 

I think the best solution that never fails that a DIYer can do is cable tie stitching.

I will mull over the ideas, thanks. As a temporary fix I have some strong and very sticky tape which sticks like **** to a blanket. Always something!!

Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Welding-Machine-Staplers-Repairing/dp/B08X6VMYRS/ref=asc_df_B08X6VMYRS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=499292497816&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16219753051871651108&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006933&hvtargid=pla-1225380420916&psc=1 for a proper repair ?

You'd need to do that and then once that has done, fill it with the appropriate plastic using something like this:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Soldering-Adjustment-Temperature-Professional/dp/B09VL6P2RG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=plastic+welding+kit&qid=1662979490&sr=8-6

 

It might just be chaeper to find a plastic repair company and get them to do it unless you think you'll do it again.

On 12/09/2022 at 11:45, cheezemonkhai said:

You'd need to do that and then once that has done, fill it with the appropriate plastic using something like this:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Soldering-Adjustment-Temperature-Professional/dp/B09VL6P2RG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=plastic+welding+kit&qid=1662979490&sr=8-6

 

It might just be chaeper to find a plastic repair company and get them to do it unless you think you'll do it again.

I was going to suggest a glue gun, but I think the plastic welder is probably a better solution.

That said, glue guns are very handy, but I'm a big fan of glue guns.

 

Bought some CTEC Superfast Plus superglue which has appeared to have done the trick. Time will tell.

PU semi foaming woodwork adhesive is my go-to bodging tool of choice.

 

Sikaflex if you can get it on both sides of the joint would stick like **** to a blanket, I used to use it for mounting Sierra front wings rather than have the paint scorching from welding.

 

Plastic welding using an instant heat solder pistol and a nylon tywrap as a filler rod gives very good results as does the tywrap stithching referred to earlier, I prefer stainless lockwire as it is more discreet and can then be hidden by the plastic welding or Sikaflex if visible.