2005 Octavia Laurin Klement 2.0PD 283,000 miles.

Problem - Car will not run. Car starts but then cuts out immediately. No warning lights working whatsover on on the dashboard.

History - Last week - Engine Oil Sensor workshop light.

No reversing sensors.

Took to local garage and put on diagnostic and read Oil sensor open circuit.

Thought could be sensor itself or wiring loom problem.

Drove home.

Reasoning being that oil level is fine, car running OK therefore chase problem when oil is due to be changed as would need to drain to change oil sensor.

 

Today I thought I would check all fuses. The 5 amp no4 fuse keeps blowing. (circled in yellow.)

I took fuses out one at a time and replaced hopefully back in the same position! (Is 15 amp blue in correct position?)

It is Saturday, my garage is shut and I can't drive it anyway to get checked anyway.

I am with SilverKnight home rescue but thought I would ask on here first.

Any ideas from the collective knowledge?

 

 

Sit on the driver's seat with your legs hanging out so you can see the fuse panel shown in your photo. Then hold the fuse cover you unclipped by your knees so that the fuse location diagram is facing the the fuse panel and you can see both.

Being a right hand drive car and the diagram is for a LHD car, you should be able count along each fuse location and marry up your car with diagram. 

Tell us what the diagram says is the function for each of your circled fuses.

thanks for prompt response.

Fuse diagram attached.

No 4 fuse, circled yellow, is Heating, Air conditioning, Electrically adjustable seats

No 27, circled blue, is fuel pump relay.

I was paranoid about the no27 fuse being in the wrong place but I think it is in the right place. The "socket" next to it has no connections. The fuse is OK by the way.

 

Just been to car. Started but cut out immediately. Weirdly both radiator fans came on when I switched on the ignition.

I have no indicators, side or headlamps.

It does make me think I have major wiring problem somewhere.

Two possibilities.

Firstly, You have an upstream fuse blown. Check the fuses in the engine bay fuse box behind and to the left of the battery.

Secondly, if the engine starts and runs for about ten seconds it indicates that the immobiliser has cut the engine. Try the second key.

Beyond that, the next step is to read the stored fault codes. Code readers are cheap for a basic unit with no built in decoding such as a ELM 327 and suitable software on your phone etc. Once you have the code numbers they can be decoded by many online sites or by making a search for the code number.

 

Update. Checked fuse box in engine bay. All OK.

Starts but cuts immediately on both keys.

Still no lights, indicators but both fans running. 

Diagnostic reading would be useful. 

I may call out my breakdown in midweek when not working. They could cast a light or maybe tow me to my local garage or auto electrician. Ah well, I cycle to work anyway.

All sorted.

Shorting wire caused battery to run down so no start.

Charged battery, traced short to air con sensor.

Disconnected air con sensor and no4 fuse now operating correctly.

Will check oil sensor at next service.

Thanks for all the advice.