Hi all I need seome help please regarding Skoda Fabia MK2 (2008):

• Driver's side switch operates well but only for driver`s electric front window.
• Passenger's side front electric window not working either from passenger`s or driver`s window`s switch.
• Both electric window switches light up when lights are on.
• Wires in both bellows seem to be intact as you can see from the photos

 

What would be the next step to do, please?

 

P.S. The passenger window has not worked since I bought this 2nd hand car a few months back. As on the passenger`s side the manual mirror is not working either I have the feeling somebody was already playing with the passenger door...

Often windows work from one side or the other pointing to which side has potential broken wires, when neither side works, it has to be a broken wire / feed in the faulty side OR faulty motor.

 

so you need to get into the door to also check the wires further in, failing that it sounds like a new motor is required

Passenger side loom appears to lack the equivalent of the violet/white visible in lower corner of driver's side 28-way. Should be in same position. This is the data connection between window motor modules, I believe. Possibility of wrong loom fitted?

Edit, no, that's wrong, sorry. Grey/whites on pin 5 each side are that data line.

 

Can you send me your VIN by private message to facilitate parts identification, please?

Edited 11 April, 20233 yr by Breezy_Pete

Does the courtesy light get triggered by front passenger door opening?

On 11/04/2023 at 12:21, Breezy_Pete said:

Does the courtesy light get triggered by front passenger door opening?

 

really sorry for late reply - was flat busy with junior doctor`s strike (basically spet 4 days in a row in the hospital...)

 

with a switch in this position courtesy light behaves as follows (car has no remote control)

 

Passenger`s door (where the electrical window does not work)

1. Unlocking door with a key -> courtesy light remains off

2. Opening unlocked door -> courtesy light turn on

3. After closing the door (unlocked or locked)  -> courtesy light turns off after 30 seconds

 

Driver`s door

1. Unlocking door with a key -> courtesy light turns on immediatelly

2. Opening unlocked door -> courtesy light remains on

3. Closing door (unlocked) -> courtesy light turns off after 30 seconds

4. Locking closed door -> courtesy light turns off immediatelly

 

I can fix many things in human body, but before I start dealing with this any help would be really appreciated!

Thank you

 

 

I think that's probably all normal behaviour for the courtesy light, I was trying to discover if the car was correctly sensing door open/closed status, which seems fine.

 

Checking presence and condition of cabin fuse #51 (25A) would be my next suggestion. Beware of 180 degree mismatch possibility between fuse numbering diagram in manual and RHD reality.

 

(Switch illumination is unaffected by this fuse's health).

Edited 15 April, 20233 yr by Breezy_Pete

Thank you

I have just rechecked the fuses and made the following "interesting" observation:

 

1. I inpected fuses 51, 52, 57 and 58 - visulally ok

2. By removing and interchanging

    fuses 57 and 58 with each other

    fuses 51 and 52 with eatch other    

    I could confirm that:

    - the right fuse 51 is for right door/window

    - the right fuse 57 is for left headlamp

      AND

    - the left fuse 52 is for the left door/window

     - the left fuse 58 is for the right headlamp

 

(see picture below)

 

Considering

- you mentioned fuse 51 should be for the left door (I have it for right doow/window...) and

- the unlogical right/left fuse orientation for both headlamps compare to both doors,

 

I would like to ask if this is a normal finding and if not what would be my next step...

Left and right as judged sitting in the driver's seat facing forward?

 

The pictorials of the windows on your sticker suggests that 51 is left, from the glass shape (when sticker other way up), and 52 right (UK driver' side).  I suppose that depends if you're looking at the glass from inside or outside!  😁

 

If left window doesn't work at all, how do you know which fuse might be the one that it needs?

By elimination because right window  stops working if you remove 51?

 

 

 

 

Edited 16 April, 20233 yr by Breezy_Pete

20 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Left and right as judged sitting in the driver's seat facing forward?

 

The pictorials of the windows on your sticker suggests that 51 is left, from the glass shape (when sticker other way up), and 52 right (UK driver' side).  I suppose that depends if you're looking at the glass from inside or outside!  😁

 

If left window doesn't work at all, how do you know which fuse might be the one that it needs?

By elimination because right window  stops working if you remove 51?

 

 

 

 

 

You are right, not only the pictorials suggest the fuse 51 should be for the left door, it is according to the manual as well:

 

Correct - after I remove fuse 51 right window stops working and that is why I assume the 51 fuse is for the right window on my car (in contrary to manual or pictogram):

 

with right window I mean driver`s window on my UK RHD Fabia

Nice data. So Skoda info is at fault. They should probably call it 'Driver's window fuse' and 'passenger window fuse' and then the info would stay correct for LHD and RHD builds.

 

I will see if I have a spare RHD left/passenger motor module that you could substitute in, but I don't think I have. Might  be cheap to buy from ebay though, I will give you exact part number shortly.

 

Do you have an electrical test meter with which you could measure voltages at the left motor module if the door card was removed?

to avoid any confusion, regarding manual, headlights, doors or windows in my replies above:

right = driver`s side

left = passenger`s side

 

6Q1959802E is the part number. Close matches are no good, only exact match will work correctly.

 

For example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394560483616

 

Or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115723718748

 

Edited 16 April, 20233 yr by Breezy_Pete

Thank you

I do not have, but if you could tell me which wires, where and what voltage I should measure/expect, then I would prefere to do it first before ordering a new motor and dismantling a passender door to find out the problem was not solved. I would just drive to some car electrical and asked him to do the appropriate measurments as per your suggestion, as I do not think they will know in detail which wire on Skoda MK2 is for what...

2 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

6Q1959802E is the part number. Close matches are no good, only exact match will work correctly.

 

For example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394560483616

 

great, thank you. I probably will go ahead and buy it because I can return within 30 days if the problem is not solved...

I added another link with another unit at approx same price from a different seller. Lots of choices.  The passenger side ones are 'slaves' to the driver's side ones, and are generally more reliable, but at these prices maybe it's just nice to have one to try.

 

Really the main measurement is to try to prove that 12V exists between the thick red/white wire (permanent 12V supply) and the thick brown wire (earth/chassis) at the connector for the window motor, to be sure it is getting power. There is another wire that is a data connection between the two, the grey/whites I mentioned in an earlier post.  You could measure resistance/continuity from one end of each of those wires to the other, by unplugging connectors at motors and A-pillar.

 

Or come to visit Oxford for a day in the car and let me. 😁

 

 

6 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

I added another link with another unit at approx same price from a different seller. Lots of choices.  The passenger side ones are 'slaves' to the driver's side ones, and are generally more reliable, but at these prices maybe it's just nice to have one to try.

 

Really the main measurement is to try to prove that 12V exists between the thick red/white wire (permanent 12V supply) and the thick brown wire (earth/chassis) at the connector for the window motor, to be sure it is getting power. There is another wire that is a data connection between the two, the grey/whites I mentioned in an earlier post.  You could measure resistance/continuity from one end of each of those wires to the other, by unplugging connectors at motors and A-pillar.

 

Or come to visit Oxford for a day in the car and let me. 😁

 

 

Let me please accept your generous offer. I would be keen to measure it first and then I order a new motor if appropriate. I will contact you via PM for the rest. Thank you!

I would start checking the voltage on the individual wires in the door now.

To check whether there is no damage in the motor you can put 12V direct onto the motor.

 

R/W is the main 12V supply from the fuse 51 and 52.

W/Bl and Bl/GN run between the switch and door control unit (J386).

GR/Bl supplies the switch lighting.

One of 3 wires has to be damaged -R/W, W/Bl or GR/Bl.

This is the full wiring for passenger front window on your car @Beareka.

J519 is a central control unit, as is J393. F221 is the lock module on that door. E107 is the switch on that door. 

Rectangle contained 8 is the feed from the 25Amp fuse.

Rectangle containing 22 is the connection across the car to the equivalent wire on driver's window module, the data connection.

Circles containing 370 and 373 are earth studs.

T28b is the connector at the A-pillar.

 

Note for other readers; there is a different version of this diagram for earlier (and later) cars than the OP's, with a different window motor part.  The part number specified above is VIN-searched to be correct for this car, don't assume it's the same for your car.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 16 April, 20233 yr by Breezy_Pete