Hey Guys,

 

Car is 2016, 2.0 liter, deisel, 4x4, 6 speed manual with 27500 miles on it

 

So the other day my clutch started acting up, soft pedle, having to pull it up with my feet etc etc. 

 

So after some research on the Internet its likely to be the slave cylinder INSIDE the gear box. 

 

But I went ahead and changed the master as its a fairly easy job compared to the slave. 

 

But alass my peddle has went soft again, all though I wasn't able to get the best pedle in the first place. Could I have incorrectly bled it?

 

Anything iv missed before I have to rip the box out

It Will be the slave, I've been there done that and got the T-shirt.

Did you do the work yourself or did a garage do it? 

 

Cheers

2 minutes ago, Peebs101 said:

Did you do the work yourself or did a garage do it? 

 

Cheers

Garage did it under warranty. 

Agreed - mine was also the slave - total PITA - expensive repair for a cheap part.

Hey Everyone, 

 

Finally managed to get this job done today. 

 

Box was in and out, clutch bled etc in 6 hours so wasn't to bad at all really. Hopefully that's it happy. 

 

Question....

 

When I had the Box off I visually checked the clutch and the DMF. I tried turning the DMF and it had about 1" of rotation back and forth. Is this normal??

 

Last time I fitted a 4x4 dmf it was solid (couldn't be turned by hand) when the pressure plate was bolted in and the old one that was knackered just spun freely.

Edited 29 July, 20232 yr by Peebs101

Yes, the new ones have a degree of radial movement before the springs act, there is a Youtube video showing and explaining it well, I think it was produced by an OEM manufacturer who was fed up with getting perfect new units returned.

 

You should not be able to move the flywheel rim fore and aft, that is a sign of wear.

 

I bet the old slave cylinder looked perfect with no leakage, am I right?

 

Thats because it was, the air gets in past the O ring joining the two plastic sections, to prevent you new one going the same way look at where the pipe comes out of the bellhousing, I'm not sure if they are supposed to have an isolating grommet there, mine didn't, any movement will cause the two parts to move relative to each other until the O ring seal is compromised, seal the gap with something like Sikaflex.

 

I managed to find a new old stock early cast aluminium one piece cylinder, the failures only started when they moved to cheaper plastic cylinders made in 2 pieces.

Edited 29 July, 20232 yr by J.R.

1 minute ago, J.R. said:

Yes, the new ones have a degree of radial movement before the springs act, there is a Youtube video showing and explaining it well, I think it was produced by an OEM manufacturer who was fed up with getting perfect new units returned.

 

You should not be able to move the flywheel rim fore and aft, that is a sign of wear.

 

I bet the old slave cylinder looked perfect with no leakage, am I right?

 

Thats because it was, the air gets in past the O ring joining the two plastic sections, to prevent you new one going the same way look at where the pipe comes out of the bellhousing, I'm not sure if they are supposed to have an isolating grommet there, mine didn't, any movement will cause the two parts to move relative to each other until the O ring seal is compromised, seal the gap with something like Sikaflex.

 

I managed to find a new old stock early cast aluminium one piece cylinder, the failures only started when they moved to cheaper plastic cylinders made in 2 pieces.

Thats good to hear! I was thinking to myself it's only a matter of time before it gives up and I get to beat my 6 hours haha. But everything else was solid. 

 

Actually mine did have the tiniest wet patch running from it. But, this could of been from the many times iv bled it and dribbled with my drain hose and run down the slave arm. All though it did look like it was leaking out from the back seal. 

 

I picked up my slave cylinder at D&A factor's because it was close. It was a full steel body which I was really impressed with as the oem one was 2 piece plastic as you mentioned. It only cost me £60. 

That should give you some security regarding the O ring problem, hopefully they will have machined the bore, pisto, & seal groove correctly, something that large and in a protected environment compared to a small exposed cylinder providing the same force really should not fail as often as they do.

So I took the yeti out of my normal drive yesterday and all seemed okay until I stopped at traffic lights and i could hear a small noise from the gearbox when it was in neutral and clutch pedal released. Noise goes away when the clutch is pressed 

 

It doesn't always happen either. Sometimes i can hear it sometimes i can't but only when stopped in neutral and pedal released. Car runs and drives perfect, no vibrations or juddering. Sounds like a bearing to me? 

 

When I removed the box I didn't interfere with the clutch or DMF. It remained bolted in. Have I reassembled the slave and or box incorrectly? 

 

Do you have any thoughts @J.R.? You mentioned you hoped the dimensions on the new slave were correct?

 

It could be that the bearing incorporated in the new slave cylinder is a bit latchety, it will either quieten down or get worse, all you can do is keep an eye on it.

 

I cant think of anything else that could be rattling but do look at where the metal pipe comes through the hole in the bellhousing, any movement there might cause a rattle, it has the mass of the bleed block hanging off it in free air.

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

It could be that the bearing incorporated in the new slave cylinder is a bit latchety, it will either quieten down or get worse, all you can do is keep an eye on it.

 

I cant think of anything else that could be rattling but do look at where the metal pipe comes through the hole in the bellhousing, any movement there might cause a rattle, it has the mass of the bleed block hanging off it in free air.

I'll check the pipe coming out the housing, thanks JR. Hopefully just goes away with some driving, it's not loud or annoying.

 

Thought I'd missed a dodgy release bearing or something 

That sounds like the DMF rattling away.

Should have replaced it whilst gearbox out.

D

32 minutes ago, Carlodiesel said:

That sounds like the DMF rattling away.

Should have replaced it whilst gearbox out.

DMF was fine before i removed the box and car only done 27000

 

Surely there would some sort of vibrations if the dmf was about to give up?

My DMF / clutch just rattled with clutch movement. When replaced it was shot.

 

54 minutes ago, Carlodiesel said:

 

Going by that video my one didn't have any play like that in at all. But it didn't sound as smooth as his did in the video so it could well be the DMF on its way out.

 

If it gets worse, I'll know what I'll be doing next but iv done like 400 miles in it and all seems well

Clutch on my 2014 4x4 yeti kept sticking on and off for about 2 months, I could just tip it back up with my foot. I brought it to the garage, they couldn't see any leaks or faults (of course it didn't stick while there). Then sticking gradually increased  over the next month. So I booked it in for slave and master cylinder replacement but over the last week it's perfect. Should I go ahead and get it done anyway, is it likely to reoccur.

@yetiboy70What gear box is in it? The 6 speed manual? 

Edited 9 October, 20232 yr by Peebs101

11 hours ago, yetiboy70 said:

is it likely to reoccur.

100% yes and it will become more and more frequent.

 

You might want to split the work in having the much cheaper job of the master cylinder done first and see how it goes, I dont hold out a lot of hope but you would have it done as a wise precaution when changing the slave cylinder anyway and it is a completely seperate job so should not cost anymore doing them both seperately, maybe an extra hour for the booking and and getting on/off the ramp.

 

You will probably see some initial improvement after replacing the master cylinder, the feel may be different as any air will have been bled out but if its the slave cylinder then it will find its way back in.

 

You could also ask them to replace the clutch bleed block AKA peak torque limiter at the same time as the master cylinder then you will have replaced 2 of the 3 possible culprits without the expense of the gearbox out job and no doubt a clutch & DMF at the same time, 2 of the 3 but not the favorite.

Weather cooler in the last week?

 

Dont wait for the really cold weather, you aint seen nothing yet!!!!

14 hours ago, Peebs101 said:

@yetiboy70What gear box is in it? The 6 speed manual? 

Yeah, It's the 6 speed manual.

6 hours ago, yetiboy70 said:

Yeah, It's the 6 speed manual.

I would completely agree with @J.R.on this one. 

 

But personally I'd skip the master, it's only false hope 😄.  It will be the slave 

Agreed but mine was very manky so I dont regret replacing it, autopsy revealed it to be functioning fine but it had some metallic paste type debris stuck all round the magnet for the position sensor, no idea where it came from but it was not wholesome!

11 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Agreed but mine was very manky so I dont regret replacing it, autopsy revealed it to be functioning fine but it had some metallic paste type debris stuck all round the magnet for the position sensor, no idea where it came from but it was not wholesome!

My only reason for skipping the master is my local garage had just fitted a new master to vw caddy and the job ended up well over 300 quid (180 quid for master from tps, plus labour) When I did it myself, daylight robbery came to mind.

 

And everyone told me it would be the slave, which it was. But I still did my master first out of hope and cause I did it myself

Edited 10 October, 20232 yr by Peebs101