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Both front windows not working.

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We have a 2007 Skoda Fabia 2007 Vin number TMBNC46Y674140784 It has 2 electric front windows and rear windows are mechanical.

 

Both front windows are not working from any of the switches.

 

We have done a scan of all ECU's and there is no connection to the window motor ECU.

 

I have stripped out the door and checked all the wires at the hinge and they are ok.

 

I have checked all fuses.

 

I have checked for lives and earths at the Motor and they are ok.

 

Autodata shows this model as having a Can Bus to the motors, but that is wrong. The Skoda wiring diagram shows it having a Lin wire that goes from the drivers window motor to the passenger side motor and that has a steady 10V when tested at the motor with the plug in and does not vary when working the window switches.

 

It also has a wire going to the body control module. I cant remember what voltage this was.

 

This is not a simple two wire motor. Its the ECU controlled type.

 

Is there a way of bench testing the motor, I was thinking I might be able to connect VCDS or ODIS through a breakout box that I have (Godiag GT100) Only problem is not sure where to connect the diagnostic line to.

 

The part number of the motor is 6Y2959802.

 

Can anyone help with this or are there any common problems that I may have missed.

 

 

Regards Peter Cooper

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  • Yes, and yes.  I'll send you a private message with a contact number.

  • Might be interesting to have a looksee, thanks, will PM you this afternoon.

  • I noticed in a search ofthe web that you do a repair for these motors. Do you have any in stock. Its a 6Y2959802?

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It'll be the driver's side motor module failing/failed.

Did your fuse and voltage checks include #11, an ignition switched feed to the smaller connector at the motor.

There's no data connection other than the LIN wire, so OBDII is blind to these problems.

 

If you're viewing on a computer rather than a phone, check the relevant link in my signature (below Quote button).

Edited by Breezy_Pete

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2 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

It'll be the driver's side motor module failing/failed.

Did your fuse and voltage checks include #11, an ignition switched feed to the smaller connector at the motor.

There's no data connection other than the LIN wire, so OBDII is blind to these problems.

 

If you're viewing on a computer rather than a phone, check the relevant link in my signature.

Yes I have 2 x  12v feeds, one in the 8 pin plug and one in the 6 pin. Was that fuse number 12. I will double check tomorrow.  Can they be bench tested away from the car?

 

 

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I mean, Can the window motors be benchtested away from the car?

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Fuse 11  is the switched feed.

On the bench, if you provide the two 12V feeds, you can ground the wire labelled R here and see if anything happens.

Failing modules sometimes work when powered afresh, but then fail again next time they're given a wake-up call by the door lock 'key turned' signal or the ignition feed.

In the absence of the passenger module it'll go to sleep after 10 minutes and only wake up if the main permanent feed is cycled, I seem to remember.

If the LIN wire is connected to a passenger/slave unit that's also powered, the normal key and ignition 'wake-ups' should work.

 

 

DSideWiring_2.jpg

Edited by Breezy_Pete
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Have you tried turning key in door and holding fully turned, to see if the convenience opening/closing functions work? Doors must all be closed for this. Both windows should start to descend for key held in unlock position; close if the key is held other way.

 

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I noticed in a search ofthe web that you do a repair for these motors. Do you have any in stock. Its a 6Y2959802?

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Yes, and yes.  I'll send you a private message with a contact number.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/12/2023 at 17:51, Breezy_Pete said:

Have you tried turning key in door and holding fully turned, to see if the convenience opening/closing functions work? Doors must all be closed for this. Both windows should start to descend for key held in unlock position; close if the key is held other way.

 

Hi I have the same issue neither window works … tried this manual check and driver window goes up and down with key in door.. passenger nothing at all? Any suggestions thanks? 

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1 hour ago, PaulZZZ said:

Hi I have the same issue neither window works … tried this manual check and driver window goes up and down with key in door.. passenger nothing at all? Any suggestions thanks? 

2001 Fabia as per your profile?

Possibly the switch pack in driver's door plus another fault like a broken wire affecting passenger side motor. Checked fuse for passenger side?

27 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

2001 Fabia as per your profile?

Possibly the switch pack in driver's door plus another fault like a broken wire affecting passenger side motor. Checked fuse for passenger side?

Yes 2001 

not seen fuses yet will look tomorrow thanks.

so, maybe just the switches? Where can I get a new switch or are they repairable?  I did pull the rubber boot between door and car wiring looked ok,  and pop the black connector I saw someone said that reset it. The window then opened about 10 mm and stopped when switch operated. Had to close manually with key.

  • 3 months later...

Hi , I’m new to this I don’t know how long the windows haven’t been working for as I have only just got the car .

was told by seller just a relay but have now found out there is no relay , I have checked the fuses but both are ok and left them out for about 30 min .

i have checked the wires in the drivers door .

Both windows do not open , when driving and go over a bump or something the drivers window dose fall a little tiny bit ,the electric mirrors and also lock button dose work .

Any advice to what this can be would be very much appreciated 

thank you 

Edited by Dennise

My drivers window was similar intermittent so replaced the switch unit of eBay easy to do and was about £10. I would change that first. 

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@Dennise, try this:

Starting with locked car, put key in driver's door lock, turn to unlock and hold it fully turned for a few more seconds.

Do the windows start to go down?

 

1 hour ago, PaulZZZ said:

My drivers window was similar intermittent so replaced the switch unit of eBay easy to do and was about £10. I would change that first. 

Thank you .

10 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

@Dennise, try this:

Starting with locked car, put key in driver's door lock, turn to unlock and hold it fully turned for a few more seconds.

Do the windows start to go down?

 

Hi, I have tried that and that don’t work .

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It's most likely the driver's side motor module failed.

Message me about my repair service if you like.🙂

Thank you for your reply, I was going to take the door card off this morning but then it started to bloody rain lol 😂 but will definitely be interested in the repair service. I will take door card off this afternoon if it stays dry or tomorrow morning to see if I can see anything going on in there and get numbers off part 

thank you .

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Is it a mk1 or mk2? A 57-plate would normally be a mk2 I think. See what the 7th and 8th characters in the VIN are. 6Y = mk1, 5J = mk2.

 

It’s a mk1 , I just checked vin to make sure 7th and 8th characters are 6y .

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In that case your driver's side motor is 6Y2959802. 

 

Thank you , also sorry to bother you again is it normal for the driver window to slightly fall down as driving if the motor has gone please .

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Not sure about that one to be honest.

I guess if it failed when the window wasn't completely closed it would make sense.

Presumably you hear no clicking or whirring noises when trying to open driver's side window?

No I don’t hear anything no motor noise or anything, I think taking the door card off may give me a better picture in case the window carriage has also broken.

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Yes. If you unscrew the motor, then take the beige cog off it, you could refit that and turn the mechaism by hand - possibly with help from a partly open pair of pliers - to see if the glass moves up and down evenly/straight. 

 

If one part (towards front or towards rear of glass sheet) can be moved up and down much more freely than the other when pinched between fingers, there may be a broken plastic attachment in the mechanism,  also.

 

So I have door card off there is a loss cable you can see the end of it by the runner that is closest to the door lock, it look like some has had it off before as there is black sealent all round the out side off the card that’s pop riveted in .

would this stop the motor from working to both doors please. 

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