Hi all 

 

looking for thoughts on the atatcehd scan, ACC stops working when you turn the car on but if you drive and turn it off and on again by key it functions again. the Cruise control stick does nothing until it functions again. 

 

i have noticed a number of low voltage errors, so im getting battery replaced this week. 

 

All this is since it was services with a main dealer before Christmas, they had to replace a glow plug. Cylinder 4. (could be a Coincidence so not ringing them just yet) 

Scan-TMBKH7NP5L7053482-20240120-1829-173196km-107619mi.txt

2 minutes ago, lwalker said:

Hi all 

 

looking for thoughts on the attached scan, ACC stops working when you turn the car on but if you drive and turn it off and on again by key it functions again. the Cruise control stick does nothing until it functions again. 

 

i have noticed a number of low voltage errors, so im getting battery replaced this week. 

 

All this is since it was services with a main dealer before Christmas, they had to replace a glow plug. Cylinder 4. (could be a Coincidence so not ringing them just yet) 

Scan-TMBKH7NP5L7053482-20240120-1829-173196km-107619mi.txt 44.52 kB · 0 downloads

 

 

Scan below was from prior to glow plug replacement and service. 

Scan-TMBKH7NP5L7053482-20230903-0849-162522km-100986mi.txt

Up to you, you may prefer to replace the battery for sheer convenience, plus you have the scan tool to 'code' the replacement battery.  But batteries remain one of the most oversold car parts and your present battery may have useful productive life still in it for a reasonable while if you've not flogged it too severly for too long and/or too often.

 

Rather than replace the battery why not fully recharge it on an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and not let the battery get so low in the future before charging it with the car or better still when appropriate put the battery charger maintainer on for preventative charging.

 

Follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and the charger maintainer for charging.  I've found it's best to do slow recharges to full, particularly on slow discharges, this does take more time and patience but for those without one or both they could be done over consecutive charges.  Owner's Manual has 0.1 to battery Ah, so 79 Ah would be 7.9 amp charger, but I would go for a 4-amp, or preferably lower charging.  The lower charging will take a longer time than most people expect but I find the results are better.  I think it's always best to get to fully recharged then you know you've got the most you can and can discover how long that holds and lasts to help gauge if you really need a new battery.

 

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

 

Edited 21 January, 20242 yr by nta16
typo

Cars in every day use so its definitely not charging issue. Either somthing is draining it. <which i cant see> or its not able for load. If i sit in car lights off all off and try to start it. Its dead. 

 

Il try battery first and report back 👍

25 minutes ago, lwalker said:

Il try battery first and report back 👍

Your car, your money, you do what is best foe you or as you please.  A new battery 'coded' in correctly will eliminate any battery concern.  You probably already know it can work out more expensive to go cheap on a replacement battery.  

 

26 minutes ago, lwalker said:

Cars in every day use so its definitely not charging issue. Either something is draining it. <which i cant see> or its not able for load. If i sit in car lights off all off and try to start it. Its dead. 

Only if you're putting in equivalent to what has been taken out.  Some systems can be calling on the battery even when it's parked up .  Again have a look at your Owner's Manual for bigger electric consumers, like the see me home or whatever it's called, then there's the heaters, motors, air-con, etc. when you are using the car, driving or parked up.

 

Having a fully charged (or new) battery will help with diagnosis whereas a battery in a low state of charge could hinder diagnosis and create issues and problems.

 

See this sequence of posts from a recent thread with perhaps a similar battery incident. - 

• "Timely post, yesterday I had a low battery warning on my 2021 fabia (pre owned from dealer) with no previous issues. I usually commute 40 miles 5 days a week, i suspect being off this week with no use and the cold and age of battery are to blame for todays non starting. Multimeter states only 11.8v 😞 Popped on charge so will see what happens, hopefully not a new battery!"
• "Damn, I charged it and it's started no problem but now theres an engine management light on, after further reading (and being old school) thought I could charge like any other car but appears I should have used the post on the chassis for negative 😞"  I brought the car to skoda on other side of town about 5 miles and they did a battery health check saying the battery is fine."
• "Bit more googling and have reset the light by turning ignition on and off several times, didn't honestly think that was gonna work! Now to investigate whats the best way of maintaining the battery as mentioned by @nta16 above 👍"

From this thread. -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520254-battery-replacement-confusing/#comment-5819694

 

Forgot to put - when you 'code' the new battery also delete any error codes as that may speed things up a little.

 

Yet another case of technology advancing at a pace that the manufacturers can't keep up with. My Mk3 Octavia has had this fault a couple of times in my two years of ownership (mainly after or during journeys in bad weather when the sensor has been obscured by road crud). Previously this fault has reset after a car clean but sadly not this time.  No knocks or scrapes it came on as as before after some poor weather. It really annoys me that a simple reset can cost so much money or that some dealerships simply admit that they can't even do it! What sort of customer service is that?  but I suppose its a good "cash cow" for continued, repeat business for those that have the money to shell out. I so wish I had a good, old fashioned cruise control with no fancy gismos. 

Any outcome or resolution?

 

hi all just to close this! turns out the battery was the issue. replaced and no faults since! (apart from a phone call from the wife about an Adblue Alarm!!)

 

thanks for your help!