Afternoon all, 

 

I've got an error which shows up on a Carista scan as '05602 clutch switch input circuit fail' 

 

I'm new to the Citigo having just landed from the Yeti pages so have no clue what this means! 

 

Clutch bites quite high, and I've noticed it doesn't need to be depressed to start the car which is weird as my 2012 Yeti does.

 

Can anyone assist?

Been shunted out by someone fed up with doing the Hokey-Cokey nonsense to start the engine?

 

I did the same with the brake pedal to ECU switch on my Alhambra, I was in the habit of left foot braking with some throttle when laden going over speedbumps to stop the suspension crashing (I would slow down now!!!) and it allowed me to do so (before it was cutting the power) but after a few months it brought up a fault code of "brake switch operation implausible, actually I think it was the Galaxy before the Alhambra.

 

It could be the same sort of deal where it will ignore that the switch is reporting that the driver is riding the pedal for quite some period of time so the previous owner may have done it some while back.

 

Does the Citigo have the gear indicator display telling you to change up or down? Is it working? Shunting out the switch would also stop that nonsense.

Thanks.

 

The PID screen thingy doesn't show any gear change instructions, so you may be on to something. 

 

Any ideas where I would find the offending switch?

On the pedal.
 

How I wish that I had your problem, two of the three things that I hate about this car is having to depress the clutch to start the engine and the gearchange indicator, the other is the "Warning! Safelock, see user manual for details" that is shown when you switch off th ignition and of course the user manual makes you even more confused!

@J.R. I've always had classic cars with weak batteries so starting the car with clutch depressed has become a habit over the past 43 years of driving. 

 

Thanks for this info about the clutch switch.

I've always pressed the clutch to start, even with new cars. Makes a lot of sense to spin as little mass as possible, but also means a smooth engagement of reverse gear every time (no spinning gears/shafts). Not to mention when someone has nudged the gear lever, and you not seeing it until the car bucks!

With other problems, like Safe Lock (which can be turned off if you don't want the car to deploy deadlocks) or a gear indicator which most people would only notice if staring at the dash instead of the road, these are quite trivial (IMHO) - so a really basic car from 60's is the thing to go for! But it may keep you busy fixing it every 2nd day....

Polar inertia (mass not relevant) of gearbox first motion/input shaft is de minimis compared to the flywheel, crankshaft and harmonic damper and the inertial resistance of those are de minimis compared to the compression resistance of the VAG diesel engines I have driven since the 90's but I appreciate every little helps.

 

Every vehicle I have driven since the 80's have had synchromesh on reverse gear, my current Yeti gearbox has twin synchros for each gear.

 

Aside from convenience I hate having to sit on the drivers seat wearing soiled overalls to start the engine when working on the car.

 

Please tell me how to disable safelock as it has resisted all my efforts to date even via VCDS, I think it is actually off although even after reading the manual I am still confused as to what it actually does but nonetheless the nanny warning still comes up every time.

 

I agree about the gear indicator, my single eye is usually on the road, if I glance at a guage I dont see the indicator but I think it may flash or perhaps its more apparent when prompting for a change of gear where it show both numbers, its frequently completely at odds with reality of the engine load commanding either up or downshift from the optimal according to its whims, it is easy to ignore unlike the other gripes.

 

If I could find a low mileage well kept example of an EU3 MK1 Octavia estate from 99-2003 I would buy it in a heartbeat and it would be far more reliable and economic than my 2015 EU5 vehicle, luckily I dodged the bullet of EU6 by a couple of months.

@J.R. Same here, but a 2005/6 2.0tdi Touran in my case. 

The size and packaging of a Touran would suit me down to the ground apart from a few deal breakers.

 

No Vario-floor, but thats a direct result of the superb packaging.

 

No spare wheel - ditto.

 

There is not a 4WD variant, that would not have been a requirement until buying my current Yeti as a project not knowing it was 4WD and not knowing how much it would be used now I have moved regions.

 

My MK1 Octavia I got at 3 years old in 2005 from my chauffeur friend with massive mileage (188k) he bought a 2.0Tdi DSG Touran and I was lined up to take that off his hands in 2008 but it had been nowhere near as reliable as the Octavia.

 

Most of his problems were through relying on the incompetent main selling dealer for repairs and needing the vehicles urgently for work, 15 years of experience and knowledge later a Touran would not be a problem to me.

Edited 5 August, 20241 yr by J.R.