Hi, all.

 

I have recently purchased 2023 Kodiaq sportline, love the car but the stereo is a little under powered. I have been looking at options in upgrading the system.

 

Amplifier 5/6 channel

Front door component speakers and a sub woofer, slim under seat type.

 

For ease I have been looking;

MATCH PP 62DSP - 5/6 Channel amplifier.

Match PP-PAC 92b harness

Audison Prima APK 165P component speakers

Audison Prima APBX 10 DS passive subwoofer.

 

Has anyone installed anything similar or have advice on what I have planned.

 

I want something a little more punchy and with depth to fill the car as it's a little flat.

 

I haven't installed a car system for sometime as the last two have been smaller vehicles and have had decent systems.

 

I'm good all round at DIY, plumbing/Electrical/joinery/building work so confident I can do this.

 

Any advice or pointers welcome.

Canton or no?

Sorry, it's standard- not Canton.

 

School boy error not stating that.

makes it easy.

 

T- MOST connector from the back of the stereo (in the lower glove box). DO NOT MESS WITH THE UPPER ONE! use high-level outs from that to your DSP (in your case, just add the T from the Match setup)

run from DSP to amps (use the match cable set)

and from amps back to speakers. If you want to run full active, you'll either need to put tweeters on the dash or run more cables through the door. There is space (the canton is active and the tweets are in the door) but I would personally not go down that route and add the tweets on the dash anyway.

 

then tweak.

 

how much power on the amp? a 16 / 20mm2 cable should be pretty simple to get through the firewall (see @KoenG's recent thread on this) and then run through to wherever you want, Without canton you could probably put the amps under the left side front seat.  Use input detection to power up and you should be good. For that specific amp you can probably stay smaller.... but I would consider a second amp for the sub. You really should be looking at something that can deliver 500W at 1 Ohm for that sub and wire in parallel. Should be able to keep up with 65W / channel at the front.

 

no recommendations, don't know the UK market any more. here the Soundigital stuff is silly cheap for what it is - 1600W into 1, 2 or 4 ohms for €280 isn't too shabby. And a 2 channel with 130W/channel for €120 ain't bad either.

Thankyou, I will look at a secondary amp and setting this up in parallel.

 

I was hoping to keep it simple with one amp, keeping cost down.

 

The front doors have a tweeter in the upper section, and mid bass lower down. 2 speakers. From what I have researched I haven't physically removed the door panel yet. Only had it 2 weeks.

 

I put an active cerwin-vega 12" sparetyre sub in and it really fills the lack of bass punch from the columbus.

 

Other issues there, with fitment but you can read that post.

 

Perhaps consider just a kicker 200.4 key amp? The std speakers arent that bad, it is lack of power from the amp more than anything, but with the additional bass from my sub, i am not sure if i would do the kicker at all.

Suggestion woukd be a kicker key 200.4 and an active underseat sub under front passenger seat,but you will have to do a 6x8 or something as all the 7 and 8 inch active underseat subs are to big and will poke out.  The carpet under the front seat already has cut outs for amp and sub.

Hi @spud75,

 

Thanks for the feed back, I look d at the kicker amp and then a possible upgrade to speakers later, in regards to the active sub how did you wire this up, is there an easy way from the unit? Or off the amp? I don't mind running power in,

I ran power in.  I used @koenG path. Was straight forward enough.

 

Have a read of the thread.

In regards to feed for the speaker did you run this from the kicker amp or from the head unit?

there is something like an audiosystem HLC if you want to avoid splicing anything.

 

I will be taking from the head unit.

 

. Bret

I have not done the kicker yet asthe sub is active with its own amp.  I put a t-harness in and used a high-low converter and just used the rear outputs as i can control the gain separately anyway.

https://aerpro.com/ap3044a

 

These guys do a plug and play harness for the kicker and will be what i do when time comes.

https://shop.enfigcarstereo.com/product/enfig-awk-euro16-key2004/

 

note for anyone else looking at this: If you have Canton, the rear doors also are driven actively, so you have 4 channels for the front doors and another 4 channels for the rear ones. I was not expecting this so I'm now missing 2 channels of amplification and DSP...  <sigh>

I have Kodiaq with 7 seater and no found any subwoofer to mount it in spare tire... All is to high width and can not close seats. I compare Cervin Vega 12 VPSTX12 with Musway MW1000A. In my country available only Musway. I buy it and in my opinion it is the same subwoofer all the same as cervibn vega which @spud75 mount , only other logos. Musway is too big , but user @spud75 write that Cervin Vega. Of course in all remove lower bracket and mount rubber foot. In my opinion i am from poland and maybe probably i have other spare tire than user @spud75 . I as user about number spare tire but no respond.
Talking in this topic
https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/523126-power-cable-for-subwoofer-or-amplifier/#comment-5940130

Edited 13 May13 May by pepeEL

I am using MATCH PP 86DSP & 7S-D with my Kodiaq 7-seat for two years. It works perfect with MIB2.5 High and PP-PAC 92b cable.

Yes but you use without spare tire. I want save spare tire and subwoofer. From yesterday i mount Audio System US8 Active Evo. Today probably finish. When finish i show....

How connect you subwoofer to MIB 2.5 high ? Activate output for subwoofer by mods eeprom ?

5 hours ago, pepeEL said:

Yes but you use without spare tire. I want save spare tire and subwoofer. From yesterday i mount Audio System US8 Active Evo. Today probably finish. When finish i show....

How connect you subwoofer to MIB 2.5 high ? Activate output for subwoofer by mods eeprom ?

There is an extension cable(plug and play) between MATCH PP 86DSP & 7S-D. So I don’t need to do anything to get it working.