Put a new power cable for car amplifier. Just wanted to share the easiest way.

Remove battery and air filter unit. At the marked spot there is a rubber grommet already available. Cut small hole and put cable through. It will be accessible directly at the drive side. 

 

I just did this on a 2023 right hand drive on the weekend.

You only need to take the battery out.  Nothing else.  You can get to everything.  Leave the airbox etc all in place

The grommet is there, but mine was round about 2cm in diameter. Its behind some black thermal insulation, that has a precut flap. 7cm x 4cm.  You lift the flap and presto,there is the grommet waiting for you.

It comes out behind the heater blower.

In the cabin (RHD) on paseenger side, you need to remove a foam block piece (2x screws) and there is a 5cm round what looks like a duct going back through the firewall, but isnt.  Squeeze your fingers between the blower at that point and the firewall and pull the cable down. Fairly easy after i worked out where the cable entered the cabin.

The battery lead onto the fuse box distribution bar, under the bonnet has the perfect attachment point. 

Take the lid off the fusebox.

Slide front facing side up (there is a catch on the face on the left of the car, just push the face in or slide a large flat screw driver into the release slot)

The main battery cable has a 10mm hex head bolt that you loosen a few turns and slide a split circle wire connector on.  Tighten the battery bolt back down.

Run the woofer power cable down beside the main battey cable And put the face plate back on and thr fuse box lid.  Then run the power cable via your preferred route to the grommet.  Very neat.

I will write up my fun running the rca amd power cables to the boot on my 7 seater, in another post.

So i have run rca, power and a 12v switching cable to the spare wheel well.

I ran the rca down u der the door sills and the power cablesdown beside the transmission tunnel. 

I unbolted the middle row seats passenger side st only.  4 x bolts 15mm bolt head i think.  The back ones are hidden under a plastic covering on the seat sliding rails.

I just chocked the seat up as i couldnt easily find the wire connector to disconnect the rear heated seats and seatbelt sensor power.

I then used an electrcian cable running strip and pushed from the back of the car under the sill all the way to the front untill it came out in the foot well.  Attached the end of the rca's at the front and pulled then back through.  Simples....ish.  i then ran the cable under the carper under the rear seats.

Did a simiilar method for the power cables down the side of the transmission tunnel to come out in the footwell at the front again.  Taped to the pull stripand pulled back to the join in the carpet before the third row seats, then pulled through again to get to the tyre well. 

Put all the seats back in.

At the front i used an iso harness to splice off the front and rear L and R speaker wires to low-level converter with high pass filter as well a switching power.  The rca's plug into my converter whuch is in behind the fuse panel beside the glove box.

All good si far.

I used a bolt in the rear tyre well for my ground in the back of the car.

Hooked the whole lot up to a cerwin-vega low height powered subwoofer VPSTX12 in the space saver spare and went to put the rear row of seats back own

Son-of-a-####$$$!!!!!!

Even with the low height sub, it sits 15mm too high.  There is a support bar under the third row in the middle that runs front to back.  That support bar curves and dips down below the level of the top of the spare.

The sub fits IF i dont have the spare tyre in. Dammit.

Aside from that, the sub sounds awesone and fills that missing bass on the columbus in my RS.  Canton wasnt an option due to chip shortage.

Part 3 of this adventure will be funding a lower offset space saver or modifying the bottom of the sub enclosure to see if i can get enough drop in height under that stupid centre bar on the third seat row to have the sub and spare tyre in at the same time.

Stay tuned.......

But if anyone with a 7 seatwr has any ideas?????

Hi @spud75
I think about mount also subwoofer in my kodiaq with also 7 seater. I know that subwoofer original Canton has 117mm. I try mount in my which has 120mm but probably has problem. I also has in my kodiaq spare tire and i want have it. Did you have any solution how modified the bottom of the sub enclosure ? Did you have any photo ?

Also did you have photo how install power wire from battery to subwoofer ?

The power wire path is described above. From fuse box distribution bar, through grommet in firewall, into footwell in the front of the car then used an electrician pull tape by pushing from the rear boot inder the carpet through to the footwell along the side of the transmission tunnel.

I used similar to

https://sydneytools.com.au/product/wattmaster-elmf4-4m-pull-through-fibreglass-rod-feeder-cable

But mine was 15mm wide by 3mm? Thick.

You tape/attach your power cable (and turn on wire if using low level speaker wires) to the tape and pull back through.

Now for the subwoofer. I pulled the lower ptotective enclosure off the sub to expose the driver. I got 6 x 22mm rubber chair feet.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/surface-gard-22mm-black-round-rubber-external-chair-tip-4-pack_p4050072

And made a small hole by poking a smaller phillips head screwdriver through the bottom of the foot. I then pushed the screw from the enclosure into the foot and through the hole so the thread pokes out the bottom. I then screwed the rubber foot on to the sub. So now when sub is in place, it sits on 6 x upside down rubber feet. The feet sit on the inside of the upside down spare wheel. There is a few mm between the middle of the spare wheel and the woofer driver. You then use the spplied woofer tyre bolt and plastic centre piece. NOTE !!!!! You HAVE to cut the plastuce centre attachment piece that locks into the floow of the car down so that it doesnt poke into the woofer speaker.

I dont have a passive shallow cerwin vega to try to fit, but this may provde better clearance. Need to mount an amp but when when you have power back to the tyre well a mono block amp would work well.

But all up, the speaker is protected inside the spare wheel. The sub is low enough that the 3rd row of sets support bar doesnt hit the top of the sub. It looks like it is supposed to be there. I will send a photo when i am back near the car. Its all snug and pumps proper 12" bass.

I am still tweaking the gain but Metallica Sandman proper rattles all the mirrors. And you can now hear the treble and bass from Doppenberg.

Very thanks for your reply. I am waiting for photo please.

I buy subwoofer Active Musway MW1000A and he has the same size and construction as your.

Then i modified parametrization MIB in Kodiaq to activate connections to subwoofer on plug quadlock MIB. Also activate center speaker. Now in radio i can Control knob subwoofer.

I use this editor.

Sound Editor

I also replace standard skoda speaker to speaker Audio System X165em evo and now i try add subwoofer. Try Audio System SW11 but it has size width 135mm, and now buy Musway MW1000A which has 120mm and when lower ptotective enclosure will be moddified it will be ok. When remove lower ptotective enclosure i can close seater and has about 10mm gaps between the subwoofer and this seat bracket. I think and try also use rubber feet in hole when screw and check it will be ok.

Edited 7 May7 May by pepeEL

20 hours ago, pepeEL said:

Very thanks for your reply. I am waiting for photo please.

I buy subwoofer Active Musway MW1000A and he has the same size and construction as your.

Then i modified parametrization MIB in Kodiaq to activate connections to subwoofer on plug quadlock MIB. Also activate center speaker. Now in radio i can Control knob subwoofer.

Sub in place

gap between sub and seat bar

Edited 8 May8 May by spud75
added comment to pics

Subwoofer Musway MW1000A which i buy is wrong... i remove lower ptotective enclosure and put ad you some distance where screew from enclosure but when I put the wheel in the space and closed the seats, the inner membrane touches the surface of the wheel, the inner part which is the most recessed.

Doesn't your internal speaker membrane touch the wheel rim? Also show a picture of the inside of your wheel rim without the subwoofer?

You can see the cut down centre piece which comes with the woofer for VAG vehicles.

I measured the size of the rubber feet carefully so they were high enough to lift the membrane off the inner part of the wheel rim but low enough that the 3rd seat row doesnt hit. Your wheel rim may be different. It shouldnt be, but it is posssible.

It might be some trial and error to get the right size rubber stoppers. I looked at all sorts of things to support the woofer to get the right height. Layers of gym mat flooring cut in a circle etc.

But in my case, when I put the speaker in, the membrane rests on the rim surface. I tried it on without the mount that you wrote about that needs to be cut off. I felt the speaker resting on the soft membrane.

Can you measure the two dimensions that I marked, then I will see if the rim is the same. Or take out the rim and find the VW numbers of the rim.

But in your subwoofer, the speaker may also have a slightly different profile and have a larger cone, which is why the membrane may not be touching?

My rim is 5QF601027C

It doesnt really matter what the rim is. If you measure from the inside wall of your rim, to the top of the wheel hub, then that is the distance you need to pack the woofer up. Plus how much the driver membrane sits above the outside wall of the rim of the woofer.

My measurements wont help as it depends what yours are.

Measure if you can please. I'm also wondering what you have in your subwoofer.

If you can, measure the subwoofer by unscrewing the feet from it and placing a spirit level on two diagonal feet, for example, and the distance from the spirit level to the middle membrane, which I marked with an arrow in the photo. I want to see how deep the speaker is so that I can possibly look for similar ones.

And the second measurement is by placing the spirit level diagonally on the large outer membrane and what is the distance from the spirit level to the upper part of the inner membrane. I would be very grateful for these measurements and you will help me a lot in installing a subwoofer for me :(


Also measure the thickness of the casing from the top surface to the bottom of the feet (the factory ones, i.e. when you unscrew your rubber one)

Edited 9 May9 May by pepeEL

And please check what is VW number your rim please.

I test next subwoofer Audio System SW11 and also is wrong. When remove lover bracket and put it in in the spare wheel, the middle membrane rests on the rim again. Does your Cervin Vega really not touch the middle rubber membrane of the wheel rim after installation? Please, please, take the measurements I asked for, and the most important dimension, when you put something flat on the diagonal legs, is the distance to the middle membrane from this flat level? Please.

And give me the exact model of this subwoofer you have and what spare wheel number VW you have(show on picture where you find number).
Thanks

Edited 12 May12 May by pepeEL

hallo @spud75 are you there? Please help me