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My black 1.8t L&K

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ARM LOOKS GOOD

  • Author

Crimp cut off and wire exposed:

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Copper cleaned up with vinegar and salt solution:

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Connector crimped on:

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Fuse block re-assembled:

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Total cost of repair, excluding knowledge and tools was around £3.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

Progress has been tough...

The brand new front driver side lock has failed, it was the stupid deadlock mech again...

 

I bought another new £25 lock and took it apart, and removed the deadlock from it. Now it just works and is not going to break ever again.

I will probably take apart all the doors again and remove the deadlocks from the rest of the door.

 

Door lock taken apart, arrow points to the deadlock.

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Deadlock removed. It's an extremely poorly designed part, it fails on OEM locks and cheap £25 ebay ones:

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Deadlockless lock:

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  • Author

Water has been leaking though the boot lid bump stops straight onto my tools... i used my trusty sikaflex 221 to seal them up:

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This isn't pretty, but works and keeps the boot dry:

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Domed nuts and sealant on the other side as well:

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  • Author

I've been keeping santa busy as well:

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I'm not looking forward to painting these...

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great work , i need to try get to my drivers rear door lock without killing door card 

  • Author
On 24/12/2024 at 14:35, dubDEAN said:

great work , i need to try get to my drivers rear door lock without killing door card 

 

I've done it 3 times successfully. Remove all the trims and bolts you can, lower the window (if you can) which will allow you to pry off the top of the door card will allow you to drill the lock motor releasing the deadlock or like in my case it will allow you to totally remove the door card and then drill it. Then its a case of fitting a new ebay lock but removing the deadlock mech so it will never happen or cause issues again.

  • Author

Late xmas presents:

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Instant gratification:

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14 hours ago, WelshSkoda93 said:

 

I've done it 3 times successfully. Remove all the trims and bolts you can, lower the window (if you can) which will allow you to pry off the top of the door card will allow you to drill the lock motor releasing the deadlock or like in my case it will allow you to totally remove the door card and then drill it. Then its a case of fitting a new ebay lock but removing the deadlock mech so it will never happen or cause issues again.

cheers lad , i have a new genuine motor sat waiting to go in, will let you know how i get on.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Back to work, lots of stuff to fit:

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Titanic-level rust exhaust clamp replaced:

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New springs, oem sachs shock absorbers and bolts:

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Also replaced the bottom washer, only one of them was fitted, i replaced 2:

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New top mounts and rubber bumps:

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I also applied bilt hamber wax to the rear beam, springs and wheel arches.

Edited by WelshSkoda93

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

More work done:

 

New subframe:

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New control arms and New inner tie rods and track rod ends:

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New anti roll bar bushes and brackets, old ones were shagged:

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New top mounts VS old top mounts:

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New shock absorbers:

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I have no idea how the shock pinch bolts came out, but they did...:

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Final result:

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Edited by WelshSkoda93

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Next up is the headlining.. I will try to DIY this over the coming weekends:

I'm really not looking forward to this, but im not paying someone 250 to do it for me:

 

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love that you fit quality bits and do a job right 💚

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

So, the headliner job turned out to be absolute nightmare, i totally messed it up and binned the lot...

If any of you want to DIY it, i advise you pay someone the 200-300 quid for retrim and fitting its an absolute PITA of a job..

Here's the pic of the headliner after tearing the old fabric off. After that it took an hour to clean up the old foam and apply contact adhesive before I tried to put the fabric down and work it along all the shapes and curves. I had my brother to help but we failed miserably.

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I found someone selling an incomplete black headliner set in Birmingham for £80.. didn't even argue about the price and wasted no time getting and fitting it.

colour combo is not too bad:

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My new struts came with brand new 22mm nuts instead of 20mm ones so i 3d printed adapters for the original covers:

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Finished product:

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  • 2 weeks later...

i have some black visors and handles spare i think

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