Very interesting link http://www.iconia.org.uk/files/Diesel%20Particle%20Filter%20Recommendations.pdf but:

When the light shown illuminates, it does not mean there is a fault on the vehicle. It means the vehicle needs help to carry out DPF regeneration.The procedure involves the vehicle being driven in a certain way to help increase the

exhaust temperature. Drive continuously for about 10-15 minutes at a speed of at least 40 mph in fourth or fifth gear(automatic gearboxes select Sport mode),to maintain an engine speed around 2,000 rpm.-O.K. but how to drive in traffic jam (any info from VW Group when huge traffic will occur)

Driving conditions in inner-city and the Channel Islands do not provide optimum conditions for the regeneration procedure.-O.K. i am sure VW Group UK have got list of towns and villages which are suitable for such conditions:D

Very interesting link http://www.iconia.org.uk/files/Diesel%20Particle%20Filter%20Recommendations.pdf but:

When the light shown illuminates, it does not mean there is a fault on the vehicle. It means the vehicle needs help to carry out DPF regeneration.The procedure involves the vehicle being driven in a certain way to help increase the

exhaust temperature. Drive continuously for about 10-15 minutes at a speed of at least 40 mph in fourth or fifth gear(automatic gearboxes select Sport mode),to maintain an engine speed around 2,000 rpm.-O.K. but how to drive in traffic jam (any info from VW Group when huge traffic will occur)

Driving conditions in inner-city and the Channel Islands do not provide optimum conditions for the regeneration procedure.-O.K. i am sure VW Group UK have got list of towns and villages which are suitable for such conditions

I wonder, If stuck in heavy traffic and the DPF warning light came on, surely you could select Neutral and run the engine with enough revs to heat the engine up. Would this not have the same effect as giving the car a belt down a motorway. Or have I missed something?:confused:

I wonder, If stuck in heavy traffic and the DPF warning light came on, surely you could select Neutral and run the engine with enough revs to heat the engine up. Would this not have the same effect as giving the car a belt down a motorway. Or have I missed something?:confused:

The short answer I have been told is no. A system of regenerating whilst the car is static would have been a perfect solution but I guess thats not possible or surely they would have done that.

Equally just thrashing the car dosent work either, you need to follow the recycling cycle recomended in the manual

I dont particularily agree with the way that this thread has been bumped several times by the OP when it seems that it was just one incident with his car that seems to of been resolved.

It did make interesting reading though, learnt quite a bit about the DPF. I googled and found this:

Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF) : Diesel particulate filters - The AA

and this:

http://www.iconia.org.uk/files/Diesel%20Particle%20Filter%20Recommendations.pdf

Maybe a sticky should be made (or 2, one in Superb section, one in OctyII section) as a reminder for owners of these cars (superb with 8v and vRS TDi) that have a DPF on how to drive them with consideration to the life of the DPF. I guess that this is all in the manual but things are often overlooked.

Steve

Steve

I bumped it because Skoda & its dealers werent warning potential purchasers that the car is not suited to certain driving styles & enviroments & I didnt want to see people being caught out as we were. I believe people need to be warned as to what they are buying, I would also agree this is not a problem confined tio Skoda. Since posting it I have even had a couple of contacts from dealers asking if I knew a fix (bodge) to get round it as customers were having problems so its widespread.

Provided you dont drive constantly in built up areas & modify your driving style if neccesary so as not to labour the car, ideally keeping revs above 2000 I believe you wont get any real problems. Skoda appeared genuinly confused as to why our car failed only at altitude. Im not a gentle driver & certainly dont bimble in the mountains, my guess is that on long decents things cool to an extent that failure occurs.

Interesting reads you found on Google, the AA one is a pretty good summary of things

I bumped it because Skoda & its dealers werent warning potential purchasers that the car is not suited to certain driving styles & enviroments

On Tuesday at a dealer I noticed that in the rack with brochures was a Skoda leaflet explaining the issues with DPF's and advising against buying one if your driving style wasn't suitable.

I bumped it because Skoda & its dealers werent warning potential purchasers that the car is not suited to certain driving styles & enviroments & I didnt want to see people being caught out as we were.

You are absolutely right.It is ridiculous to sell cars not suited for driving at all (where in Europe are places suited for Superb-we may ask dealer for list of towns or villages around the world:D)

That's incredibel! A manufacturer advising you not to buy one of their vehicles!

Is the notice dated?

If yes, then people who bought a vehicle before this date may have a legal case, class action etc.

I wonder if anyone could get hold of a copy, PDF and post it?

That's incredibel! A manufacturer advising you not to buy one of their vehicles!

Is the notice dated?

If yes, then people who bought a vehicle before this date may have a legal case, class action etc.

I wonder if anyone could get hold of a copy, PDF and post it?

I would be interested in a copy

I won't be going in there any time soon but if you're passing, the dealership is in Crewe.

Unfortunately not. Most are located very close to the engine, on the Superb & some Passats its at the very end of the exhaust, interestingly economy drops in very wet weather, Im guessing again due to the water cooling of the DPF

The dpf on my superb in fitted at about the point where the exhaust pipe passes under the handbrake which is a long way from the end of the exhaust.

Jenks

The dpf on my superb in fitted at about the point where the exhaust pipe passes under the handbrake which is a long way from the end of the exhaust.

Jenks

Your 100% correct

My original post was based on the book skoda produce for technicians which is diagramatic & shows it close to the additive tank. When we got under the car a few weeks ago we found it. The G450 pressure sensor for the DPF is also not where I thought it would be, its accesesed from the top of the Engine bay & is just in front of the bulkhead.

The short answer I have been told is no. A system of regenerating whilst the car is static would have been a perfect solution but I guess thats not possible or surely they would have done that.

Equally just thrashing the car dosent work either, you need to follow the recycling cycle recomended in the manual

I have to admit to being very confused . It is said that if the warning light come on then the car should be driven at between 1800-2000 in 4th or 5th gear revs for a period of 15 minutes.

And the unit will regenerate itself.

The problem as I understand it is that the DPF is running to cool to burn of the soot. Surely the engine at these sorts of revs combined with the speed of the car will be running a lot cooler than if it were doodling along in traffic. I also don

I have to admit to being very confused . It is said that if the warning light come on then the car should be driven at between 1800-2000 in 4th or 5th gear revs for a period of 15 minutes.

And the unit will regenerate itself.

The problem as I understand it is that the DPF is running to cool to burn of the soot. Surely the engine at these sorts of revs combined with the speed of the car will be running a lot cooler than if it were doodling along in traffic. I also don

Thanks Jenks superb link http://new.skoda-auto.com/Documents/EnvironmentTechDev/EnvironmentTechDevDPF.pdf

My doubts with reference to DPF

In 2.0 tdi 140 km is "wet"(additional) DPF in contradistinction to "dry" in Octavia. Im not sure if:

-The catalyst allows the soot to be burnt off at a lower temperature or higher temperature-fragment from the link"The problem of attainment of soot combustion temperature is solved by two systems with catalytic combustion, which make it possible to regenerate the filter already at lower temperatures"

-fragment from the link"The additive is automatically fed from the additional reservoir to the fuel tank each time the car is refuelled" not mentioned in manual

-fragment from the link" The quantity of additive in the reservoir suffices for approximately 120 000 km; it is monitored and in case of the level becoming too low, the driver is warned by signalisation and advised to visit the service centre"-how i will know about lack of catalyst because at 120 000 km is normal service signalisation-not mentioned in manual

for me jumble

You can't raise the exhaust temperature to a value sufficient to shift soot on any diesel unless the engine is loaded. Unlike a petrol engine, a diesel does not run at a stoichiometric mixture at all times - the only way to get it to do more work (which will raise the exhaust temperature) is to supply more fuel. There is no "throttle" so the engine gets excess air at all times and especially at idle when the air/fuel ratio can be 50:1. This, of course, is the beauty of a diesel engine.

If you increased the fuelling on an unloaded engine to shift the soot, it would simply rev up to maximum and sit there on the governor - not a saleable solution.

VAG's "solution" to Euro IV compliance is a bodge - especially so on the Superb where no provision (understandably on an ancient design) has been made to accomodate the soot filter near the engine. Putting it at the back end of a long wheelbase car makes it very difficult to get it hot enough.

Burning extra fuel to shift the soot is not my idea of an elegant solution. This of course explains why the later engines are not as economical as the old 1.9 litre units and are therefore in a higher tax bracket.

rotodiesel.

Rotodiesel..

#You can't raise the exhaust temperature to a value sufficient to shift soot on any diesel unless the engine is loaded. Unlike a petrol engine, a diesel does not run at a stoichiometric mixture at all times - the only way to get it to do more work (which will raise the exhaust temperature) is to supply more fuel. There is no "throttle" so the engine gets excess air at all times and especially at idle when the air/fuel ratio can be 50:1. This, of course, is the beauty of a diesel engine.#

Thank you. a glimmer of light in my darkness. You will no doubt have gathered that I know "diddly squat about diesel engines." Well done that man!

Now I have got to look up stoichiometric lol.

Jenks

Rotodiesel..

#You can't raise the exhaust temperature to a value sufficient to shift soot on any diesel unless the engine is loaded. Unlike a petrol engine, a diesel does not run at a stoichiometric mixture at all times - the only way to get it to do more work (which will raise the exhaust temperature) is to supply more fuel. There is no "throttle" so the engine gets excess air at all times and especially at idle when the air/fuel ratio can be 50:1. This, of course, is the beauty of a diesel engine.#

Thank you. a glimmer of light in my darkness. You will no doubt have gathered that I know "diddly squat about diesel engines." Well done that man!

Now I have got to look up stoichiometric lol.

Jenks

Stoichiometry - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Nopw are you any the wiser :D:D

Stoichiometry - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Nopw are you any the wiser :D:D

Are you kidding :confused::confused::confused: I lift heavy things for a living or I did when I could

Will ring you re: our exchange of PMs when my beloved gets home.

Jenks

The stoichiometric ratio is simply the richest air/fuel ratio which will (theoretically) give complete combustion of the fuel. For petrol it is 14.7:1.

It is almost always necessary to burn fuel at this ratio in petrol engines because our dear politicians (years ago) decided that the fitment of catalytic convertors was the best way to reduce emissions - rather than using lean burn technology (or of course, a diesel which does this anyway).

So, thanks to their ignorance and the way in which they were duped by the motor manufacturers (who did not want to develop new engines but merely bolt a tin can onto the exhaust as a quick fix) millions of gallons of fuel have been wasted.

The job looks as though it's going the same way with the diesel. My present Cat III will probably be my last - I'll look after it.

rotodiesel.

The stoichiometric ratio is simply the richest air/fuel ratio which will (theoretically) give complete combustion of the fuel. For petrol it is 14.7:1.

It is almost always necessary to burn fuel at this ratio in petrol engines because our dear politicians (years ago) decided that the fitment of catalytic convertors was the best way to reduce emissions - rather than using lean burn technology (or of course, a diesel which does this anyway).

So, thanks to their ignorance and the way in which they were duped by the motor manufacturers (who did not want to develop new engines but merely bolt a tin can onto the exhaust as a quick fix) millions of gallons of fuel have been wasted.

The job looks as though it's going the same way with the diesel. My present Cat III will probably be my last - I'll look after it.

rotodiesel.

On one hand you enlighten, on the other you confuse.. Is your Cat III a DPF?

Jenks

So, thanks to their ignorance and the way in which they were duped by the motor manufacturers (who did not want to develop new engines but merely bolt a tin can onto the exhaust as a quick fix) millions of gallons of fuel have been wasted.

Off topic, my apologies, but I agree with your comments with regards to lean burn, except I was under the impression it was the greens who insisted on catalytic converters because learn burn engines could theoretically made more powerful by altering the fuel ratio under acceleration etc.

Of course, adding a restriction in to the exhaust system so the car has to use more fuel for a given power output and also using precious metals makes perfect sense for a green future.

I know i've said this before, but I'll say it again.

Why not just put a small hole in the exhaust directly before the DPF or even into the DPF and have a diesel glow plug mounted there on a switch? Since they can only run for a certain time, maybe have 2 that run for 1 minute each and cycle in turn until combustion is complete.

Some glow plugs can get to almost 1500 degrees centigrade.

If it is warm enough to allow combustion in a cold engine it should be warm enough to raise the temp of the DPF for a while. If the air couldn't take enough heat off the plug(s) then mounting it in the DPF it would heat the metal lattice directly.

I know i've said this before, but I'll say it again.

Why not just put a small hole in the exhaust directly before the DPF or even into the DPF and have a diesel glow plug mounted there on a switch? Since they can only run for a certain time, maybe have 2 that run for 1 minute each and cycle in turn until combustion is complete.

Some glow plugs can get to almost 1500 degrees centigrade.If it is warm enough to allow combustion in a cold engine it should be warm enough to raise the temp of the DPF for a while. If the air couldn't take enough heat of the plug(s) then mounting it in the DPF it would heat the metal lattice directly.

I must admit that I hadn't thought of using glow plugs to heat the DPF but it did occur to me to introduce a switched input of instant heat once the DPF warning light indicated a regeneration cycle was required in a situation where it was not possible to conform with the recommended procedure. For instance stuck in a "traffic jam".

Jenks

You can't raise the exhaust temperature to a value sufficient to shift soot on any diesel unless the engine is loaded. Unlike a petrol engine, a diesel does not run at a stoichiometric mixture at all times - the only way to get it to do more work (which will raise the exhaust temperature) is to supply more fuel. There is no "throttle" so the engine gets excess air at all times and especially at idle when the air/fuel ratio can be 50:1. This, of course, is the beauty of a diesel engine.

If you increased the fuelling on an unloaded engine to shift the soot, it would simply rev up to maximum and sit there on the governor - not a saleable solution.

VAG's "solution" to Euro IV compliance is a bodge - especially so on the Superb where no provision (understandably on an ancient design) has been made to accomodate the soot filter near the engine. Putting it at the back end of a long wheelbase car makes it very difficult to get it hot enough.

Burning extra fuel to shift the soot is not my idea of an elegant solution. This of course explains why the later engines are not as economical as the old 1.9 litre units and are therefore in a higher tax bracket.

rotodiesel.

Thank you.Now i understand a little bit more but what exactly additive to the fuel tank is doing.

The additive enables the soot to be burnt out at a much lower initial temperature than would otherwise be the case. Without an additive, the DPF can would need to be red hot to start the process going.

Euro Cat III diesels (and earlier) don't have a DPF - just an oxidation catalyst near to the exhaust manifold which works in open loop mode. As the UK diesel MOT test is concerned only with smoke opacity, it doesn't even have to work here.

If mine gives any trouble it will be "rodded out".

rotodiesel.

NB. Euro Emissions Categories use Roman numerals for diesels and Arabic numerals for petrol engines. eg Cat III - diesel; Cat 3 - petrol.