1.3mpi lumpy tickover etc, any advice?

[ian450]

Hi all

I've recently bought a felicia and would be very grateful for some advice on a few things.

Basically it's a '97 1.3mpi with 20k, good history and probably mainly done short journeys. I've replaced th CTS as the gauge wasn't working (

[TeflonTom]

try giving the trottle body a good clean with some carb cleaner,

the knocking during the gear changes could be a cv worn out,

headlight levelers broke is a common problem caused by the fluid leaking out of the unit.

[ian450]

I'll give the carb cleaner a go, cheers

[cjcrumly]

1. Tickover seems lumpy although very constant rpm (steady like a cement mixer!). It's not severe and may just be normal but you certainly feel it through the car and can see the engine wobble quite a bit. As far as I can see the mounts are ok, nothing obvious. Is it normal? on the gearbox mount, should there space between the square metal block and the rubber?

I have noticed the same on mine (1.6)....

The engine wobbles more than it should and the metal block (top mount) is up against one side of the rubber.

I've just had a look and it seems to me that the rear gearbox mounting has failed, causing the engine to lean back slightly. Looks to be a straightforward job to renew - supporting the box and undoing four bolts.

I have ordered one today from dealer (~

[ian450]

I've just had a look and it seems to me that the rear gearbox mounting has failed, causing the engine to lean back slightly. Looks to be a straightforward job to renew - supporting the box and undoing four bolts.

That's interesting. Looking at the manual the 1.3/1.6 seem to use the same rear mounting. The manual says a skoda dealer needs to press out the two rubbers (but is it

[cjcrumly]

~£15 is for the whole assembly which should be, as you say, just a DIY swap. The top gearbox mounting rubber looks horrendous...gearbox removal and pressing out rubber!

Mine has only recently developed this movement - so I am hoping this replacement will be the cure. Mine has covered ~90,000 miles, so is probably just down to general wear. I also have developed some low speed steering wobble which I think might also be related to this, although could be tyres/ wheel balancing.

My main concern with this movement is any undue stresses being put on my ageing CAT...don't want the cost of a new one of these at the moment!

I should be getting the part in a couple of days...I'll try and post a couple of comparison photos when I fit it.

P.S. I remember my old fiesta used to have regular gearbox mounting failures - they were just prone to this problem.

[ian450]

I'll try and post a couple of comparison photos when I fit it.

P.S. I remember my old fiesta used to have regular gearbox mounting failures - they were just prone to this problem.

That'd be useful. Mine looked ok and with 20k thought it should be, but perhaps could perish with age rather than just use. I did consider it just possible that the knock I often hear when releasing the clutch could be to do with this mounting (as the engine twists with the torque). The wife's Rover started to make a knocking on start up and I found a similar type of mounting to be at fault (loose:eek: ). Hope you get on ok fitting it.

[cjcrumly]

Fitted the mounting today.....

Definitely has made a difference even though the old mounting hadn't failed as I thought. Being as thick as I am, I thought that all four arms of the rubber should be bonded to the outside casing whereas only the top and bottom are. However, the rubber on the old one was much softer than the new and any movement in the engine now seems to rock both pieces of the mounting arm, whereas before it was just the rubber (photo) vibrating...if that makes any sense!

The engine does look to be much steadier although the top mounting still looks over to one side - perhaps it was like this.

May have helped a bit with my steering wobble - not sure.

Wasn't quite as easy a job as I thought it might be...but not too bad. Need 16mm socket and spanner for pivot bolt (very tight), and 16mm and 13mm for mounting bolts. I supported the back of the gearbox from above with a strap off the strut brace because I only had the one jack - but seemed to be OK.

I found it worthwhile doing for the cost.

[ian450]

I found it worthwhile doing for the cost.

Sounds like it was. Thanks for the pics, the old one does look distorted. Think I'll change mine and see if it helps as well. No job ever seems to be as easy as it looks!

I find the lumpyness worst once the engine's warm, yours too by chance?. Thought maybe temp sensor at fault but a new one made no difference (except gauge now working) and runs well apart from the thuddy tickover. If a new mounting doesn't do the trick think I'll try a number of things in turn which are all free or cheap (and worth doing anyway) to see if anything makes a difference ie Check continuity CTS to ECU, new plugs, carb clean throttle body, injector cleaner in fuel. Beyond that could be costly.

Cheers for the feedback.

[spannerman]

~

[ian450]

Just an update, I cleaned the throttle body and things are a bit worse. No change to the lumpyness but the tickover is maybe a bit faster, worse though it now tends stay at high rpm inless the throttle is used heavily or blipped. I read on another thread posted a while ago a fellow owner with what would seem to be the exact same thing and finally got another throttle body. Bring back the carburettor, all is forgiven! Thinking about it this is what the car was like (although a bit worse now) when I first got it. I thought I was just getting used to it but it had actually got a bit better on its own. Cleaning the throttle body has somehow made it bad again.

Anyway this what I observed when cleaning it. There was a thick black oily coating inside the body/manifold below the butterfly, much dirtier than I imagined. I was a bit short of carb cleaner but got the butterfly valve and all around very clean. It is possible I've just dislodged some crud and it needs more flushing through. I was careful to avoid getting cleaner over the positioner housing, but inevitably some might have got down the spindle. Looking down the bore I could see what I assume is petrol at the bottom of the manifold. I assume this comes from the pressure regulator pipe but not sure if it's right, forgive my ignorance! Seemed too much to be pooled carb cleaner anyway. The motor isn't allowing the valve to reclose quickly (if at all) so it's faulty or not getting the right data. I wonder if it's a dirty potentiometer. Judging by the pressed on cover VAG don't see this as a service item. I'm going to remove and clean the manifold temp/pressure sensor in case it got more sludged up but if anyone's got any suggestions or advice, I'd be really grateful!!!

Cheers

[TeflonTom]

i expect the trottle body needs resetting using diagnostics system.. the petrol formed in the bottom of the manifold is just vapour left over from the fuel injectors

[pinkskud]

that oil is from the crank case breather, helps lube the upper bores.

[ian450]

that oil is from the crank case breather, helps lube the upper bores.

Had a better look today and dipped it. Actually a bit deceptive and very little there, makes more sense now where some oil or petrol would come from into the manifold.

Took out the manfold temp/pressure sensor, it was fairly clean. Cleaned it a bit more anyway, also the electrical connections, they were slightly corroded. No real change though. Since then I've used the car a bit and it seems to have improved a little. I did also remove and clean the positioner connector yesterday. I seem to recall reading somewhere (maybe the haynes manual) that after disconnecting the battery/ecu related electrics the ecu can lose it's memory and so has to relearn it's settings with use. Until then it might behave oddly, maybe this is what's going on. As suggested might be best to visit the dealer and see about setting it up properly. A bit reluctant though, last time there they tried to sell me a steering rack when actually the track rod end pinch bolt just needed nipping up half a turn. Probably end up with a new engine management system!

Many thanks, any comments appreciated

[ian450]

headlight levelers broke is a common problem caused by the fluid leaking out of the unit.

Removed it and appears to be the problem, unfixable I think but no big deal.

Thanks

[ugluk]

Originally Posted by TeflonTom

headlight levelers broke is a common problem caused by the fluid leaking out of the unit.

Removed it and appears to be the problem, unfixable I think but no big deal.

Thanks

The healdight leveling system can be replaced for somewhere around