I try not to go 'too hard' on the loud pedal until the temp gauge has reached normal on the water temp. That is not to say the oil is at the same temperature yet but it's at that stage usually close enough to not be too concerned any longer

I like to wait untill all th warning lights come on then i know its ready to go..

First you get the low fuel light, followed by the bulb blown light, then about 5-10 seconds later the low washer fluid level light, then im ready to go :p

Is this realy an issue with modern cars?

What the hell do you do if you can't pootle gently along till your engines up to the correct temp. What do you do if like me you drive 200 yrds to the end of your road and then 9 times out of 10 have to pretty much floor it to get out safely on a very busy main road?

Or about 200 yards out of the car park, and then straight up a m/way slip road.

I think driving normally is ok, just bouncing the needle off the rev limiter is a bad idea lol.

Get in and drive, but the engine is treated with kindness and gentle progress for the first 3 or 4 miles of my commute. And I won't start using some good throttle until I at least start to see the coolant needle move off the stopper.

I'm not sure I do it purely for kindness, but in the morning, the car just doesn't feel like it has the get up & go, so I respect that and wait until she's primed and ready.

There is nothing wrong with giving the engine a bit of revs, what is not good for it is high load, ie being in too high a gear. It annoys the hell out of me when folk are in 3rd gear 20ft after setting off doing 20mph and the engine is labouring like mad cos it is under massive load and has no revs

I would usually wait till temperature starts increasing and then drive it gently till it reaches the ideal temp, and then full out lol

I would usually wait till temperature starts increasing and then drive it gently till it reaches the ideal temp, and then full out lol

Just remember that the oil takes longer to get to optimum temperature than the water/coolant which is what the gauge on the dash is for

Chris

need time to check make-up, hair, got enough tissues, etc:rofl:

honestly, how many of you have worn out an engine?! I do 50k a year (70k in my furby so far, and no engine/turbo faults, feels new!) my highest miles in the shortest time was a saxo VTR at 155,000 miles in just over three years, engine was fine! the last engine I killed was an old vauxhall chevette (and oil technology was no where near what it is by todays standards) and if I remember rightly, no briskodian has ever killed the1.9 deisel... not even Jason! lol... I say drive normally, they don't need 'babying'...

Leaving the engine idling for more than minute, especially a diesel, really doesn't achieve anything except to burn fuel. If you start the car, de-ice it and then get in, it's not got any warmer than if you just start, pause & go.

Just drive the bugger!

(But gently to start with. Obviously.)

Get in, engine on, seat belt, heater to max, heated seat to 5, drive off.

I agree Heated seat to 5 is the most important aspect to be learned from this thread ;P I have been a very bad boy and floored it when v cold in winter, but when a little saxo T**T is revving next to you what can you do, needless to say she(the car) complained and told me "No more revs till im warm, im limiting you to 4000 tops" it goes away pretty soon tho, not something to repeat.

I normally have my heated seat on 4, though occassionally I'll turn it up a notch if I need to dry my trousers from some late night washing

Otherwise my journey is pretty slow for first ten minutes until I hit the motorway, so perfect warming up time

Here's my 10 pence worth:

The oil in a cold engine wont circulate efficiently enough to get pumped up to the highest point i.e, the cam shaft, on tick-over because the oil is still too viscous to flow freely. Hence the need to drive away as soon as possible after starting from cold. Normal driving should provide sufficient oil pump rpm to circulate the oil.

Yes its true that a cold engine shouldnt be over-reved because forcing cold viscous oil through the oil pump puts unreasonable mechanical stresses on the pump itself.

To really appreciate the demands cold weather puts on the oil/engine can I suggest you put an eggcup full of engine oil in the freezer (usually -18C) seeing how thick it is really is amazing.

As posted earlier an idling diesel engine will slowly warm up but NOT with the heater/blower on full, try it next time you are in traffic with the engine half warmed up or so, turn the heater on full and the temp gauge will drop.

Basically idle the engine for long enough for the oil to circulate then drive off fairly gently for the first mile or so, I think 2000 rpm is a sensible limit when cold, once the temp gauge starts to move gradually increase load rpm etc.

I just test drove a BMW 120D and the most annoying thing is no coolant temp gauge, nor one on the new 3 series either and they call it the ultimate driving machine?? Arrogant/cost cutting or what...

Ill summarsie what has been said here : -

Get in and drive off straight away - It does your engine no good to wait for it to warm up

Ill summarsie what has been said here : -

Get in and drive off straight away - It does your engine no good to wait for it to warm up

Quite right!! Get in and drive. Simple. What's the problem???