Would a squirt of WD-40 help it? I put the key in and it's now really stiff to turn left or right and it sometimes "grabs" the key so when I've locked it, it's tough to get the key out. Sometimes I try to turn it so much clockise I end up unlocking again as it suddenly turns.

Ultimate solution is for me to find someone to fit my vRS convenience ECU in my car. Then I won't have to worry about door barrels again.

spray some lube in it , and work in with the key

And I'd be suprised if fitting a vRS ECU will instantly make the remote locking work.

Im 99% sure you will find the door ECU's are different.

Each door has an ECU? :eek:

Well, I was kind of hoping it would work as I had RCL before, just the Skoda aftermarket kit, and no door tweaking was needed. I have everything else vRS in my dash, except the convenience ECU which I never thought of getting during the conversion. It's the reprogramming for the RCL which I've no clue on. Even the wiring in the nav light unit in the roof had some kind of additional sensor on it with a "1" and a "0" position on it - I assumed this to be either alarm or RCL sensor.

I'll go for the lube first.

Each door has an ECU its built into the motor.

The reciever for the RCL is in the control unit.

Better using Graphite grease in a lock, I heard somewhere that WD40 is a little harsh and can cause wear???? :confused:

Maybe try GT85 instead? I think that's more got more of a lubey content. Maybe some 15w 40?

Ross? I would hope that by using a vRS convenience ECU, it would talk to the current door ECUs? I'm in no way sure, but it's what I would hope would happen. Somehow the door locks communicate all the vRS gear, but the "alarm" remains active until I turn the ignition on, then the hazards flash once to say it's granted me access.

They might well do, but I think you will find your door ECU's are different.

Hell give it a go, if you have one plug it in and see if you can code a remote, only takes a few seconds to do.

Oops it was graphite powder Lubricating door locks. - General [M]ayhem

Hell give it a go, if you have one plug it in and see if you can code a remote, only takes a few seconds to do.

This is what scares me - what happens if I just plug it in and I lose the door locking? I assume I can replug the old ECU in then. I also assume the convenience ECU plays no part in the coding of keys to the ignition/dashpod? Is the coding of the remote something along the lines of holding the key in the door barrel in the "open" position, whilst having the remote key in the ignition, turned on, then hold down the open button on the remote key in the ignition whilst turned on, for about 5 seconds or so?

Finally....Where is the bloody convenience ECU. I've looked all over the place!

WD40 will only last short while - unable to get graphite powder I've always used 3 in 1 oil (think they do a graphite version) or, more usually, engine oil (sometimes mixed with a little WD 40) in a plastic hypodermic (so you can get in past the spring that pushes the miniplate / seal shut).

With any of them then you obviously have to work the key to get the lubricant to where it should be.

I had the key grabbing issue in my old Polo. Assume that lock is similar...

The key was being grabbed because the lock itself wasn't returning to the upright position properly.

There's a cam in the lock which rotates against a spring. One of the legs of this had snapped off and was fouling the mechanism.

If you remove the door handle you can disassemble the lock, remove the offending part and put it back together again. Mine was fine, it just didn't spring back uoright when you unlocked the car.

Have careful look at how it all fits together before you take it apart. Reassembley requires some patience although I believe there is a VAG tool available to make this easier (which I found out after the event of course )