Right....now that I've maanged to post this in the right place.

Can anyone explain to me why when you change your brake disks and pads you get a spongey brake pedal feel.

Is it due to air getting into the system?

Would be interested to know why it happens and may be then I can reduce the probability of it happening when I do my brakes.

Cheers.

Adrian.

I don't know, but my best guess it that it feels "spngey" (:P) because you are used to making the pad move a fraction of a mm until all the pad surface is in contact with the disc. A new pad doesn't have a flat surface (compare it to a pad you're taking out) or the correct "angle of approach" (we're talking fractions of mm's - the pad WILL be slightly mis-seated) so part of the pad makes contact, but only a small part so you apply more force which persuades more of the pad into contact.

Eventually the pad wears smooth and to the correct angle, so you're back to normal.

Right....now that I've maanged to post this in the right place.

Can anyone explain to me why when you change your brake disks and pads you get a spongey brake pedal feel.

Is it due to air getting into the system?

Would be interested to know why it happens and may be then I can reduce the probability of it happening when I do my brakes.

Cheers.

Adrian.

change of discs shouldnt let air in... but would be worth hammering the abs a bit... and then bleeding them... top up with super 4.1 fluid just to be sure...

Yup, sounds like another with air in after a change - god knows how it gets in as we always seem to get it!

Find a low grip \ zero grip surface, ice, grass, anything with nothing to hit

Go as fast as you dare, slam on the pedals and get the abs firing for as long as possible, this pushes the fluid through all the chambers.

Check and top up afterwards.

Anyone with any more suggestions? I still can't understand how air gets in the system. :help:

I don't believe air is getting in. It will be the pads bedding in. Until the surface is worn to match the disc only high points on the disc and pad surface will be making contact and this causes a slight loss in performance and a spongey feel. Bed them in gently and after 100 miles or so they will feel like normal.

Now done front discs and pads all round.....did initially have a spongy pedal but it's gone now.

After a slight technical hitch pointed out by Obi Wan French ( ....it make such a big difference it's unbelieveable) braking is much improved and I'm sure will get better with further usage.

Free tip of the day: get the brake winding tool or someone to lend it to you.....absolutely fantastic bit of kit and so easy to use.

Live and learn Adrian, live and learn Always happy to help.

Glad you bought the wind back tool now are you? Best

when changing brake pads the rubber brake hose should be clamped half way up with a pipe clamp..NOT MOLEGRIPS..the bleed nipple on the caliper should be undone before the piston in the caliper is wound back in...this stops any dirt from entering the master cylinder and is ejected through the bleed nipple.......pressure bleeding is the only way to fully elimanate air from the system................

brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs air and water (moisture) every time you drive...mainly from the kerbside because that is where most water settles......you can buy a device to boil the fluid in the reservoir and it will tell you the boiling point....for dot 4 and 4.1 the minimum is 180c anything below this requires changing....:P the more water content the quicker it boils....catch the jist?????????

sharp intake of breath:thumbup: Phil

When i fitted my Brembos I bled my brakes out with DOT 4 Castrol Response fluid and all seems well. Remember brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years and Phils tips above are spot on, the best way is to open the bleed nipple to let the old fluid escape, top tip!

I will be upgrading the pads soon and skimming the discs as the set I 'aquired' werent brand new and need refacing.

But they are superb on such a light car.