D402

That's not a part number, it's the material specification - Polyamide 66 with 25 % glass fibre. Genuine only for these parts it seems.

I have a moth in mine, and a huge caterpillar crawled out of the headlining on the first warm day after I got the car. No amount of shaking the tail lamp would shift the moth, the caterpillar made its own way out. I wonder if they were related...

The evaporator could be freezing up and blocking the air flow. When you switch the A/C off, it melts and drains away so the system works again for a while. AI tells me this can be: blocked cabin filter so there's not enough warm air coming in to keep the evaporator clear blocked A/C drain - check there is a puddle of water under the car when you park up on a hot day low refrigerant pressure so the evaporator has to get below freezing to achieve low enough air temperatures or many possible A/C system component failures

Do you have the oh-so-reliable air quality sensor under the scuttle panel?

@PJGallagher Have you changed any bulbs to LEDs? This can have weird side-effects including the car not powering down properly and draining the battery.

You're absolutely right and there's nothing special about the Superb, the problem is that most garages can't be bothered to adjust both tie rods so that the steering wheel is straight. To be fair, it's not that easy to judge the straight-ahead position of the steering wheel when you're not driving. I corrected my own in the end! I have had to have the radar re-calibrated after replacing the front shocks, but never after alignments or new tyres.

Sketchy for sure, but it worked for a couple of people!

Looks like it can be done with an extension cable from one of the car's antennae, see the reply from Kajetanski. Good luck!

This might help:

I suspect that the short drives and cold starts don't create the conditions where the solenoid is actuated so the ECU clears the fault after three cycles without the fault being detected. You said that the replacing the solenoid did not resolve the fault. This suggests that there was never a fault with the solenoid so the technician moved on to check the wiring, found a fault and bypassed it which initially solved the problem. Next step is definitely to check the wiring again as this was found to be faulty before.

First thing I'd check is the recently installed wiring bypass.

That's it, it's usually fine if I can pull away and continue to accelerate but if I have to back off at the critical moment with a cold engine it will stall occasionally. I tend to release the park brake manually to move off as slowly as possible because visibility from my driveway is poor in one direction, the stalling still occurs then so I don't think it's related to the brakes. I long ago enabled Audi mode too, no change to the stalling.

Mine (2017 2.0 Tdi 150hp with DQ250, 84k miles) has done this in first and reverse from new. Normal servicing, DSG oil changes and brake maintenance don't make any difference and it hasn't got any worse over time. Longer warm up before moving off helps. I'll try switching the Autohold off too.

I have similar tailgate lights which cause similar problems but only if any of the interior lights are switched on! It's been suggested to me that the light type needs to be coded. This thread suggests changing all the interior lights to LEDs might cure the problem:

Here you go, up to 20/06/2021: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/0/071/71060 21/06/2021 on: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/0/071/71061