I'll do a search and edit the original post if I find them, but I wouldn't hold your breath :(

For ventilation I'll run either 2 or 4 80mm fans one side blowing and the other side sucking. The MDF supports I've put in under the top level should help channel it past the amps nicely.

Bit more work done today. All of the power wiring is done now, except for the battery connection. I've just ordered the bits to enable me to do that, and hopefully they'll come tomorrow. Left to do is take all the interior out and run RCA's, speaker cable and remote turn on lead, and then sorting out the mounts for the speakers in the doors... oh and cut some holes for fans and for the voltage readout in the boot.

Schern,

How are you going to power your cooling fans? I see you have a distribution block - will you connect the fans to the distribution block via a relay? Or is there an ignition switched live feed you can connect to leaving no need for a relay?

Stu

The Genesis amp has a specific fan port, so I was going to use that as the power feed as I'm guessing it switches on when the remote lead switchs the amp on, and then earth it to the earth distribution block.

Clever! I wonder if all amps have that. I'm guessing the budget one i'm considering won't have!

I really like the way you've created a false floor that'll still hinge up to allow easy access to the spare wheel. Have you attached the left-hand-side (where your distribution block etc is fitted) to the boot floor? Or have you just attached it to the luggage ring?

I've just attached it to the luggage ring. To be honest its not particularly securely fastened, but its enough to hold it in place when I do need to lift it up.

Unfortunately I don't think most amps do come with the fan port, so I think you'll have to go down the relay route.

A day of successes and failures today. Unfortunately more failures than successes. I've got the RCA's and the remote lead through the car, and started to run the speaker cable. I've decided to put the crossovers under the front seats, as I don't think they'll fit in the doors. Unfortunately I managed to hide one under a floor mat and knelt on it, which cracked the casing. The crossover is fine and is still in full working order, but its not as pristine as it was.

Had a look at how to get the cables into the doors using Lummox's method but got stuck when I couldn't get the plug on the car side unclipped from the holder. How does it undo? I also took all the rubber trunking off both the door and the car and then couldn't get it back on. Thank you to Sally (my g/f) for persevering and getting them back on correctly. Not managing to get the cable into the door annoyed me, and this would rapidly progress into full blown anger!!!

Decided to call it a day and start putting the interior back in, all the plastic bits along the sills. Most of its fine, but the bit that goes on the B pillar is a PITA!!! Are you supposed to take all of the plastic from the ceiling to the floor off to get the bottom part that goes along the sills off and on? I managed to get it off alright, but putting them back took ages and I managed to stretch the plastic in a couple of places resulting in some unsightly white bits. Finally got this all clipped back in with mainly brute force then moved on to putting the seats back in...

... this is the bit that has annoyed me the most, mainly because its my fault. I seem to have cross-threaded one of the seat bolts. If you're sat in the drivers seat its the one by your left foot. It is very very difficult to tighten. Admittedly I've been doing it with an allen key which I know isn't right, and I'm off to buy a set of spline tools tomorrow, and probably a new bolt as well and have another go. Its the fact that I think I've damaged the thread that I think is welded into the car that annoys me most. If anybody can shed any light on how best to sort it I'd be very grateful.

So I'm now thoroughly ****ed off at myself, and am all for getting somebody else to finish the job! Not a happy bunny :(

Had a look at how to get the cables into the doors using Lummox's method but got stuck when I couldn't get the plug on the car side unclipped from the holder. How does it undo? I also took all the rubber trunking off both the door and the car and then couldn't get it back on. Thank you to Sally (my g/f) for persevering and getting them back on correctly. Not managing to get the cable into the door annoyed me, and this would rapidly progress into full blown anger!!!

It is a pain :(

Go for the white one at the bottom, and start with the passenger side which has more space to look / move around.

There's a kind of slit either side of the connector you need to get a long pointy object into to separate the two lugs part of the black support away from the connector

I found a small flat screwdriver can have a shaft too thick to get in deep enough

The best thing would probably be a pair of baby hacksaw blades or something similar.

Sorry to hear about your seat bolt troubles. Putting all the gear in can be so fustrating, painful (removal of skin on hands!) and just plain annoying. But hang in there, the result will be well worth it once you're done

tfboy - look what i found in my archived folders

Running a power cable in a Furby.pdf

fabia front door speaker change.pdf

MPM

tfboy - look what i found in my archived folders

[ATTACH]14655[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]14656[/ATTACH]

MPM

:eek: :eek:

THANK YOU!

Talk about a trip down memory lane

Did you pdf them or did you find my writeup on another site somewhere. Would have been nice to be credited for it, like Doer1 was for his power cabling guide

When i joined 2yrs ago (blimey time flies) i PDF'd them and printed them to help when i did my car

Being an IT geek i've had them archived on my PC as it happens so regularly that these useful guides disappear off the face of the earth.

They've not graced any websites other than this

If anyone has Adobe feel free to edit them to credit the writers, i don't have adobe anymore as i've changed jobs.

MPM