Just a thought but have you ever taken the intercooler off to see what gunk was in it? I remembered this thread from a bit back http://briskoda.net/octavia-i/oil-smic-should-i-worry/115628/

If the throttle body is getting dirty maybe it would be worth tracing it back a bit.

I'm taking mine off tomorrow to fit the FMIC, gonna be interesting to see what its like.

I removed the pancake pipe yesterday, to replace the short pressure hose between it and the intercooler. I was surprised by how little oil there was in the intercooler and pipe. I had this image of it spilling out when I removed the hose!

There was just a thin film of oil, and a small trickle in the pancake pipe. I flushed the pancake pipe with carb cleaner and wiped what I could from the inlet of the intercooler, but feeling inside the intercooler with my freaky long fingers I couldn't feel any sizeable depth of oil.

Cleaning the TB seems to be the trick for me. It's such an easy job as well, which makes it less irritating. I don't unplug it, I just unclip the hose and remove the bolts, then slip the TB into a small plastic tub stolen from the kitchen to catch all the carb cleaner.

To prevent it, I'm going to have to fit a catch tank to the car at some point.

Forgot to post up again on this thread. After bypassing the N249 valve and all was well for about 2 weeks and gradually the symptoms returned over continued mileage... :( - at the moment the symptoms are loud and proud and I am beyond fed up with the car. I attempted to take the car to have the original map put back, only when they tried the car wouldn't start!!! So I am a bit stuck now, especially if my original map is lost doesn't work :(

I recently did a TB reset which I think improved the symptoms a little but didn't cure it - not sure if there is something related there, perhaps a sensor on the TB that's faulty? I'm going to reconnect the N249 as this obviously isn't the problem - I've ordered some di electrical grease to coate some of the electrical connectors, but I'm fresh out of ideas besides this.

If something is faulty with the car it would be pointless be going somewhere else for another map/remap costing £££'s - but obviously the way to tell would be to put the original map back on to see if the symptoms go - otherwise I'll never be certain.

If block 002 in vag-com is producing good numbers I would forget the new maf. Have you still got that rubbish remap on? I've got some more links that confirm they are bad news if you want to see them (pm me).

I went through all this at the beginning of this thread, replacing this and that but it was deffo the map that was the problem.

@ Bodge mine had naff all oil in the lower pipe too.

P.s from what I've read the the n249 bypass works best if you get the little kick when you let off the throttle as it eliminates it.

If block 002 in vag-com is producing good numbers I would forget the new maf. Have you still got that rubbish remap on? I've got some more links that confirm they are bad news if you want to see them (pm me).

I went through all this at the beginning of this thread, replacing this and that but it was deffo the map that was the problem.

@ Bodge mine had naff all oil in the lower pipe too.

P.s from what I've read the the n249 bypass works best if you get the little kick when you let off the throttle as it eliminates it.

Yes please mate - PM me if you would be so kind

Also completely forgot that I have fitted a new MAF so it isn't that. I think its the map like you say, which is why I wanted it reverted to the original with no luck

Might just go elsewhere, funny enough ECU Evolution aren't that far from me

Phew, after some time I finished reading the whole thread... nice work guys

I've a question though: some pages ago someone said they can "hear" the secondary air pump work. Can anyone elaborate about this secondary air pump? When does it work, how does it work and how does it sound (if at all)? Thanks

Phew, after some time I finished reading the whole thread... nice work guys

I've a question though: some pages ago someone said they can "hear" the secondary air pump work. Can anyone elaborate about this secondary air pump? When does it work, how does it work and how does it sound (if at all)? Thanks

When the engine (more specifically the Catalytic convertor) is cold

It pumps extra Air around the engine to the exhaust to help the Cat warm up Quicker (not sure of the science but you get the picture)

If its knackered it sounds like a bad exhaust blow for 2-3 mins then it just stops. if its just a little loose can sound a bit buzzy. loads of info if you search for "Secondary Air" and a good "how to" somewhere. I'll find it later

If your after the how to replace the rivets with bolts guide its here Step-by-step guide for repairing the Secondary Air Pump (with pictures) - uk-mkivs

Ian

Phew, after some time I finished reading the whole thread... nice work guys

I've a question though: some pages ago someone said they can "hear" the secondary air pump work. Can anyone elaborate about this secondary air pump? When does it work, how does it work and how does it sound (if at all)? Thanks

Read this mate, explains it's operation:

http://briskoda.net/octavia-i/secondary-air-system-info/106956/

If your after the how to replace the rivets with bolts guide its here Step-by-step guide for repairing the Secondary Air Pump (with pictures) - uk-mkivs

Ian

cheers Ian thats the one I was looking for.

Thanks a lot, excellent links

are these the good ones that Lex has and will they work????

PC88037 - Ignition Car Parts

are these the good ones that Lex has and will they work????

PC88037 - Ignition Car Parts

When I was searching the VW forums on bolt down coil packs the general advice was get OEM ones as aftermarkets such as Febi are unreliable. OEM are made by Hitachi and are seemingly bullet proof. Don't know if these in the link are OEM but I'm guessing not.

cheers

are the oem bolt down ones still avail. fm a vag dealer

On a side note I fitted bolt downs and found them less reliable. Interesting though as ECS performance now do these for the OEM coils.

ECS Tuning ::OEM / Performance Parts for Volkswagen :: FrontPage

Might be worth a try...

cheers

are the oem bolt down ones still avail. fm a vag dealer

I know Audi dealers still do them but am not sure about VW dealers.

An interesting thread but I have a similar issue in that I experience hesitation/misfire etc. whilst idling during the warm up cycle and it appears to happen only when on Revo Performance settings.

Using the SPS and setting to Stock it runs steady as a rock with no issues at all.

Once the warm up cycle is finished it seems to run fine on Performance settings albeit a bit peaky when on part throttle.

Additionally, I notice a strong smell of fuel coming from rear of the car on warm up but not sure if this is related.

Any advice or guidance appreciated ?

Nobody got any pointers for me then ?

I have trawled the forum and picked up a few ideas to try but some I have already done.

Replaced y pipe which had collapsed, new temp sender and thermostat fixed the dancing temp gauge issue, new recirc valve fitted.

Just got gasket ready for a TB clean when whether picks up and will look into replacing the s pipe and checking the secondary air pump for leaks.

KW sport kit will be fitted on Friday with new drop links and LCR top points and bearings.

I remembered to pick up bump stops and new nuts/bots too.

As soon as it gets warmer I have the R32 FARB, Neuspeed RARB and Billy's old ECS Dog Bone to fit.

I would have had Billy's V3's if I had seen the post before purchasing the KW Sport kit from Damian.

It's all coming together slowly.

Oh yeah, it also had all new Coil Packs at the dealer a few months back an Denso Iridium plugs about 12 months back.

I've tried the N75J on my car that has the surging, and the surging now is much more noticeable. It was so bad that I went back to the the N75 OEM.

Is the N57J currently still the latest revision?

Think F is the latest one, the J is similar to the ECS one causes boost spikes,

Hi All, Any help pls.

Got a weird prob on my Mk1 octy vrs...

Has got what seems to be a spluttering in all gears almost like a fuel starvation but has also started not firing up (takes several turns of key) especially since i fitted a maf sensor. Also has a serious lack of power esp under acceleration. The car has been on various diags and had new n249,Recirc Valve and n75. This is really puzzeling me and very frustrating.

So any help is appreciated guys and gals. Thanls

Hi All, Any help pls.

Got a weird prob on my Mk1 octy vrs...

Has got what seems to be a spluttering in all gears almost like a fuel starvation but has also started not firing up (takes several turns of key) especially since i fitted a maf sensor. Also has a serious lack of power esp under acceleration. The car has been on various diags and had new n249,Recirc Valve and n75. This is really puzzeling me and very frustrating.

So any help is appreciated guys and gals. Thanls

Was it a genuine maf? Try a drive with it unplugged, if it's smooth then that's the culprit. I'd also be tempted to think coolant temp sensor but I'd start with the maf. It's not unheard of for new ons to play up pretty much straight away.

What air filter set up do you have by the way?

Could this be the kind of hesitation mentioned. Or is it bigger or different then that

No not a genuine maf unfortunatley and I have tried it unplugged and is even worse. I have put the old maf back on and still has original probs but not as bas as when i fitted the new maf. I have just noticed a new issue which is my fuel guage is giving me wrong milage readings when i put fuel in?? Cheers guys

Air filter is a cone filter set up with a cold air feed, like this when i bought it

Is that cone properly secured? Vibrations and wobbles can screw with the MAF.