Rear of my Favorit shaking, feels like buckled wheel.

No noise, no movement on bearings when either side jacked up.

Changed wheel with spare.

It's worse at low speeds.. can be quite severe, seems to smooth out at 50, but there is still a vibration.

Steering fine.. no wobbles, brakes fine, pulls up straight,checked rear shocks / springs/ rubbers., was suggested it could be engine dropped on mounting, so that it rested on subframe.. all mountings look good,

it definitely feels like nearside rear.

It's a '93, I've had the car a year done 10,000 miles and it still only has 60k on it.

Please help if you can.. I'm having to borrow the works van... but much rather be Skoda ing.

Thanks

If you swap the fronts with rears and the problem goes or swaps end, this will confirm whether or not the problem is the wheels themselves. You can do this with the supplied jack, take off wheel put on spare, then swap other with the one you have taken off and swap the spare with the other. Should be fine to just use 2 bolts on spare as you're not driving anywhere.

Could be that weights are missing and wheel needs re-balance?

Sounds very much like a severely bulged tyre tread to me.

:iagree: Swap all the wheels in turn and see if the problem disappears. Cars are funny things for vibrations, when the problem is in one place it often appears to be somewhere else, especially when you're driving it too. Get someone to sit in the back and have a feel round when it's vibrating.

ive had same fault , it was failing tyre casing

I agree with Rigsby, i had the same problem on my old Felicia pickup

Sounds like tyres to me as well. I promise this is a true story. A mate of mine worked in a small garage, and a car came in with new tyres from a well-known "fast fit" outlet, and a rumble which "wasn't there before" from the NSR according to the owner. Usual procedure of rounding up 3 extra sets of trained ears (I was one of them) so somebody could listen at 3 corners while we had a drive to locate the issue. It actually was the NSR, so we took the wheel off, and the wheel went clonk. We then demounted that tyre, and won a set of 8" pliers from inside it. We didn't even charge the guy, figuring that the pliers paid for the labour costs!

What an interesting story Ken. Can't believe they fit the tyre without knowing it was there. I wonder what it was like on the balancing machine Yet another reason to avoid "fast fit" places.

I'm still not sure what pliers were doing even near a tyre. There's a special device for fitting and removing balance weights on steels, and you don't use pliers on alloys (even if this had applied).

Firstly thanks for all the replies, it's good to know you're not alone when you get baffled like this.

Have rotated wheels, see if it makes a difference.. will update. Out of interest, the car is fitted with Barum tyres all round, which I believe were original Skoda fitment ( I remember having these on my MZ... lethal in the wet).

As it's such a lightweight car i guess any wobble/ vibration will be felt throughout the car.

Contacted the original Skoda agent ( lost dealership when VW takeover dictated s****y showroom!!) he said that top engine mounting would have similar effect.. but it all looks fine to me.

Only fault i can find is a split cv gaiter... but no play or knocking on full lock.

You lot are quite harsh, I use my local " Fast Fit " place and it is brilliant. On about my 6th set of tires with them and never had a problem

I didn't say they were all bad. The one I use (not part of a national chain) is like using a garage except for the fixed menu pricing system.

That doesn't make the one I referred to earlier (now vanished in a merger) any more competent though!

I've heard so many stories. I know someone who had their brake disc intentionally damaged at kwikfit and they saw them doing it. Just shows you they have resorted to criminal damage to try get you pay for work you don't need.

I have also read stories of them spraying oil on shock absorbers (which were gas ones) to try say they are leaking, and even better one story of them saying shock absorbers need replacing, the customer asking about their warranty, and then letting them know they can replace them for free as they were purchased 6 months ago.

The other thing is dismantling brakes, and then refusing to put them together as it's illegal to drive the car and you *have* to pay to get them repaired there and then.

I know not all garages are perfect, but it's this strong desire to do work that's not needed that strikes me more than anything.

It's better to shop around anyway if you can. If you're looking for tyres sometimes main dealers can be quite cheap, or there are a few online places.

Two weeks since last post in this thread, so maybe this is too late.... but if the wobble is worse at low speeds it's likely that the cause will be visible if you jack up each wheel in turn and spin them slowly, looking for uneven tyre wear, bent rim, or (front end!) distorted drive shaft. If you park the car 1 inch from the kerb before jacking it up on that side, you can easily eyeball bent rims to a millimetre or so.

And fix that CV gaiter before water gets in and knackers the bearings. Gaiter £3.50, CV joint assembly £50, replacement cost (or time if you do it yourself) exactly the same for either.

I've got the same wobble which you can feel through the steering wheel. But, I do know that the weights have come off some of the wheels and they need re-balancing. Could just be something as simple as that.

If weights have come off you can certainly expect wobble at speeds around 50-60mph. Below that you shouldn't notice much due to wheel imbalance, above that it starts to get absorbed by the suspension.

Note that if wobble at speed doesn't go away after balancing, the balancing might have been done incorrectly. It happens a lot: most of the tyre fitters don't know how to use those machines. What you should do is this:

Run the machine, fit weights as advised, run machine again to check answer comes up '0g'.

THEN - and this is the bit that doesn't seem to be in the training:

Slacken the wheel clamp, rotate the wheel through a quarter-turn, retighten the clamp and re-run the machine. The answer should still be 0g.

The reason is that the machines are quite delicate and go off calibration fairly easily. Rotating the wheel relative to the shaft will pick that up. If on that third run the machine indicates that more than 10g is required it can't be trusted and another machine should be used and the machine recalibrated as a matter of urgency.

no ones mentioned running palm of hand round the wheel tread .. a bulge on a tyre can be felt if its there, whatch out for any wire sticking out on those old 'steel claw radials' though.. shaking through steering wheel at 55 - 65 = wheel balance... shaking at 40 means cvjoint.. lumpy ride at lower speeds = squarish wheel

sounds exactly like what my Fav did, just before it dumped the broken bits of the CV joint on the drive.

Easy job to change IF you can get the hub nut off.