Intermittant starting problem...

[WoodieGuthrie]

Woodie is now in much finer health:D after his headgasket and radiator change.

However- he's started fecking about when trying to get him started...

seems to turn over (bat light on) and partially catch, then die again.

can then start ok, or repeat the above.

seems to start better with a jumpstart- suggesting possible alternator issues.

however, he sometimes will start right off the button, even after sitting a while.

He has a starter button as the ign barrell spring has failed, so he wont start just on the key.

also, 1 key is used- could it be a transponder issue? he's a'98 facelift GLi 1.3 MPi

thanks in advance!

P.s- no coolant in oil or vice versa-compression seems a-ok, and car runs strongly when started- pulls really well, and has had tappets adjusted when headgasket was done

[daverapid]

:)You set the tappets when the head gasket was done...fair enough, but...did you recheck/set them after it'd been run? They tend to "bed in" and need adjusting again a short while afterwards. Tight valve clearances are one of the most common causes of odd starting issues with the old Skoda pushrod engine.

[WoodieGuthrie]

:)You set the tappets when the head gasket was done...fair enough, but...did you recheck/set them after it'd been run? They tend to "bed in" and need adjusting again a short while afterwards. Tight valve clearances are one of the most common causes of odd starting issues with the old Skoda pushrod engine.

Mange tak as they say in Norway..

tight clearances= valves opening too soon, and low comp?

[daverapid]

:)Yeah, they open too soon affecting the valve timing , but more importantly depending on the temperature of the engine they aren't allowed to close fully which lowers the compression.

[daz51]

had problem with my Favorit,

Check the sensor which tells the Ecu hoe to start the engine, On the Favorit it is located just in front of the Dip stick

[WoodieGuthrie]

:)Yeah, they open too soon affecting the valve timing , but more importantly depending on the temperature of the engine they aren't allowed to close fully which lowers the compression.

Woohoo! I'm not as thick as I thought I was...

daz51- thanks mate i'll check sensor you suggest (hall sensor?)

[daz51]

not sure on the name its something to do with the wiring between the ECU and the Coil,

mine would start and run for a few seconds then cut out and sometimes would not start at all. If you left it for long periods it would start and run fine then soon as you stop it would cut out and not start

[WoodieGuthrie]

not sure on the name its something to do with the wiring between the ECU and the Coil,

mine would start and run for a few seconds then cut out and sometimes would not start at all. If you left it for long periods it would start and run fine then soon as you stop it would cut out and not start

I stalled Woodie whilst doing a 3 point turn in a single track road, in the dark.

He wouldnt start at all- turned over nice as you like, but didnt catch, even with accel pedal being pumped.

Eventually I had to complete the 3 point turn by using the starter to reverse him into a field entrance, then using the starter to set him off downhill whilst I completed a bumpstart.

after that, he appeared sluggish and unwilling to accellerate properly.

my suspiscion is that its valvetrain related- but can anyone shed anymore light?

Thanks

Neil

[KenONeill]

Are you 200% certain you got the pushrods back in the right order? I know you can't have messed up the cam timing (or probably the ignition) changing the head gasket on a pushrod motor.

[WoodieGuthrie]

Are you 200% certain you got the pushrods back in the right order? I know you can't have messed up the cam timing (or probably the ignition) changing the head gasket on a pushrod motor.

Pushrods were removed one at a time, and slotted into holed cardboard numbered 1-8 (1 being the chain end of the lump)

a similar approach was used for the Head bolts, due to differing lengths:thumbup:

Certainly, as you say- the timing/ignition was not touched.

I'm thinking another check of valve clearances may be in order- the rods will probably have settled now (he's done 1k since HG swap)into their original grooves on the cam lobes.

[KenONeill]

Pushrods were removed one at a time, and slotted into holed cardboard numbered 1-8 (1 being the chain end of the lump)

a similar approach was used for the Head bolts, due to differing lengths:thumbup:

Certainly, as you say- the timing/ignition was not touched.

I'm thinking another check of valve clearances may be in order- the rods will probably have settled now (he's done 1k since HG swap)into their original grooves on the cam lobes.

That's convincing that that was right.

I'd advise checking the head bolt torques, and then the valve clearances. Then the points gap and timing just to be sure.

[WoodieGuthrie]

That's convincing that that was right.

I'd advise checking the head bolt torques, and then the valve clearances. Then the points gap and timing just to be sure.

Head bolts were torqued to 30nm, then angle tightened 90 degrees twice, as per specs in haynes book of jokes.

points and timing dont apply- its an MPI lump-no distrib.

[KenONeill]

Head bolts were torqued to 30nm, then angle tightened 90 degrees twice, as per specs in haynes book of jokes..

I don't have the relevant manual, but any head gasket change procedure I've seen advised checking the head torques once the gasket had settled.

points and timing dont apply- its an MPI lump-no distrib.

Ok; that's the issue with trying to do general diagnosis on a model you've no personal experience of.

[WoodieGuthrie]

I don't have the relevant manual, but any head gasket change procedure I've seen advised checking the head torques once the gasket had settled.

Ok; that's the issue with trying to do general diagnosis on a model you've no personal experience of.

Ken, distrib comment wasnt a critisism:D

I'm confused though- how can I check torques once gasket has settled if the last two stages are angle tightening(I.E. no value in NM ?)

[Zachry]

Mange tak as they say in Norway..

I just had to comment on this

Mange takk is the correct reply!

You just said "many roofs" not "many thanks" =)

But it was damn close

[swedishskoda]

I just had to comment on this

Mange takk is the correct reply!

You just said "many roofs" not "many thanks" =)

But it was damn close

Damn close in more ways than one, since it's faultless Danish

[WoodieGuthrie]

Damn close in more ways than one, since it's faultless Danish

Zachry- sorry sir! no offence meant:)

at least it wasnt rude, and hey, whaddya know, I can speak Danish now:thumbup:

[WoodieGuthrie]

Just a quick update for all you thousands that are interested:rofl:

Re did the valve clearances on Woodie, and checked torque on the head bolts (had to tighten the front centre one a touch) and voila- starting much better now:thumbup:

Mange Takk (i'm learning Zachry!)

to all those who helped:D

[Richard Black]

Good, here's hoping the problem stays away. That loose head bolt may have been the cause - the problems you described reminded me of mild head gasket failure on one motor of mine... Hillman Hunter I think it was.... damn, my first ever wagon!

[WoodieGuthrie]

Good, here's hoping the problem stays away. That loose head bolt may have been the cause - the problems you described reminded me of mild head gasket failure on one motor of mine... Hillman Hunter I think it was.... damn, my first ever wagon!

Lol! a hunter- top quality stuff!

thanks for the info- fingers crossed he's ok for now