silver1011
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Hi all, Happy New Year! Bit of a strange one. A 2013 (63) MkIII Octavia, I today replaced the original 12 year old OEM EFB (stop / start) battery for a new one for a friend. The new battery is branded Audura (from Euro Car Parts), but without a BEM (Battery Energy Management) code. As a result I was hoping to follow the common advice of changing the 10-digit serial number from 1111111111 to 1111111112. Before that I first changed the Ah setting from 59Ah to 70Ah, which was accepted. The battery type was already EFB, and as the replacement was also EFB, I left this unchanged. I left the battery manufacturer as JCB as I don’t know the code for Audura. However, when trying to update the serial number VCDS told me that it needed to include an alphanumeric character. I tried a few different configurations including both letters and numbers, but the same error appeared each time I clicked ‘Do it!’. Any ideas? I’m hoping the successful change of the Ah will be enough to ‘tell’ the car a new battery is fitted…
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Presumably the dealer has refunded you for the incorrect Haldex service and pump replacement? You don’t need to have the rear differential replaced at Skoda. Ring around some transmission or 4x4 specialists for advice.
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Was the headlight replaced as part of the recent repair? Given the level of impact and the close proximity of the damage to the foglight (the headlight and foglight are actually one piece), I’m amazed none of the securing lugs and tabs didn’t break off. They’re notoriously weak.
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https://customer.vwfs.co.uk/service-plans/skoda.html?traci_c=UK|OSP|S|Sales|Core|Skoda:DM-P:&traci_s=SI:SKODA:SEA:Google:SearchAd:2023-01:&traci_ee=19604534807:145589334923:647819819930::::&traci_t=skoda all in:e::&s_kwcid=AL!10901!3!647819819930!e!!g!!skoda all in&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAzvC9BhADEiwAEhtlN1XodDU_c8xflzdYCXhZ0D-DKnNDWPRxWIls_KSRwDg8UopsuLQySRoCTZ8QAvD_BwE
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If you’re on Facebook, join the ‘Skoda Kodiaq UK’ group. DSG mechatronic faults are currently averaging one per week. Hopefully you have the Skoda ‘All-in’ warranty and servicing package.
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I had the exact same tyres and the exact same issue. I complained to Hankook and they said I had to direct my complaint to Skoda UK. You can imagine how that turned out. I posted the debacle on here somewhere. I foolishly bought some Hankook tyres for another vehicle, and they cracked sooner and far worse. I’ll never purchase Hankook tyres again. I’m now running Michelin Crossclimates and Goodyear Vector 4seasons.
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You do need to be careful routing the cable along the headlining. The DAB aerial is up there and the electrical interference from the cable has resulted in a few issues with radio signal strength for some owners. Especially if any excess cable is coiled up.
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Assuming you’re in the UK a 12V cigarette lighter style socket has been standard in the Kodiaq since its launch in 2017. As has a boot light.
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Apologies, you were right, I was wrong. I was sure my Kodiaq keys were the flip-style. After checking they’re most definitely not. How about someone similar to these guys… https://www.northwestvehiclesecurity.co.uk/car-key-programming/#:~:text=For expert car key programming,all your car key needs.
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I think you’re going to need to find an automotive car key programmer local to you (or a mobile one), or use your local Skoda main dealer. I’m pretty sure the non-Skoda key programmers will be able to get you sorted without having to pay main dealer prices.
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Assuming you’re in the UK, KESSY is standard on all Kodiaq’s, including the flip-style key fobs. The blades on the Kodiaq keys are removable - presumably this is how you lost only the blade? Therefore you do have the flip-style fob? Most key cutters and car key reprogramming requires a key / fob / blade to copy. The others (including Skoda) will require access to the vehicles ECU.
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I’m not a paid-up FREEDOM member anymore and so Briskoda prefer to make it more difficult to help. I can therefore not post images. However, this eBay listing includes several photos of a genuine VAG part. There are a couple of spade connectors on the end of the socket itself, if there is no socket attached to them on your car, then presumably it’s dropped off and is down at boot base level somewhere… https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273328079546?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=owxUDzwwQsC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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A repair is fine, that’ll all a Skoda main dealer will do. The repair involves replacing several components within the mechatronics. Be aware there are numerous failure modes and repair kits, be sure you know which one is applicable to your Kodiaq. I’m an admin over on the Kodiaq UK Facebook page, reports of mechatronic failures are averaging two per week. Skoda UK are acutely aware of the issue/s, but as always keeping very tight lipped. The Skoda All-in service plan and warranty is worth its weight in gold. It’s great value and covers 100% of all mechatronics failures.
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