Brake squeal

[Gaz]

My OSR brake developed a squeal a few weeks ago.  Relatively minor and went away with a dab of the pedal or tug on the handbrake, but kept coming back.

 

Took the wheel off just now and the reason was immediately apparent.  One of the ends of the inboard brake pad spring was visible in the inspection aperture on the calliper.  Simple enough fix and an opportunity to give the carrier a clean.

 

Changing pads and discs is well within my level of competence, but I'd had it done at a garage we trust last year due to being away at a friends funeral.  Just makes me wonder what else goes on if someone can't pay attention to fitting a brake pad properly.

 

I suppose I should count my blessings that four of the five wheel bolts were tight   (all 20 now checked!  ).

 

Gaz 

[0wl]

Gaz, I know where you're coming from...

 

When I replaced my front discs and pads earlier this year, the pads had been replaced by a garage for the previous owner only the year before and the pads had been mounted backwards (i.e. against the direction of rotation indicated on the pads) - the fact the discs must have been virtually worn out at the time the pads were replaced is another issue.  Also when changing the timing belt recently, I found whoever did the last timing belt (a garage) had over-tightened and partially rounded out a couple of the allen bolts holding the crankshaft harmonic pulley on - I ended up having to carefully drill them out.  They had also not tightened up the bottom headlight bolt which explained why it was vibrating when sat in traffic.

 

The most recent time I used a garage was to replace a CV boot on the Superb.  The garage (one that had been recommended to me by a few people) managed to put the headlight level sensor back on incorrectly and didn't tighten the boot correctly resulting in it leaking grease.  To be fair they fixed the CV boot quickly and without quibble (I'd already sorted the sensor attachment myself).

 

I try to do most things on my cars myself now due to the above, unless it is something I feel is unsafe / not practical doing myself on the drive on axle stands.

 

If only people would take pride in their work...  My late father (who started out as a mechanic prior to becoming a chartered engineer) always used to say if you do a good job for a fair price you'll never be out of work - it's a shame this attitude seems very rare with garages these days.

[jimbof]

Do the headlight level sensors even need to come off to do a CV boot?  I know when I had my driver's side shaft taken out it didn't get moved.

 

I get more and more disheartened ever time I let someone else near the car.  Perhaps I'm turning into a Victor Meldrew-type, or perhaps I'd just like it done right.  What annoys me most is that when you have a go yourself at something you haven't done before you'll sometimes bust something; but at least I know it is broken and I choose to live with it or fix / replace it.  Almost universally I see garages botching a fix on it, like they are doing you a favour...

[0wl]

Do the headlight level sensors even need to come off to do a CV boot?  I know when I had my driver's side shaft taken out it didn't get moved.

 

I think they were following a workshop guide on replacing the CV boot and they ended up removing the entire nearside suspension strut / tower to remove the pinch bolt as guess what, it was seized (both pinch bolts were well and truly seized when I bought the car).  I haven't checked, but I think I've read it is possible to disconnect one / both of the lower arms and it gives just enough room to release the driveshaft, so as per what you've said they might not have needed to remove the pinch bolt / mess with the level sensor anyway.  The positive is I've now got one pinch bolt that is removable and coated in copper slip.

[jimbof]

At least on driver's side, with auto transmission, nothing on the suspension needs to be touched (and indeed, due to all the pinch bolt / alignment issues, shouldn't be touched unless you have to it seems).  The inside joint is released and then the steering manipulated to the right position to give the clearance to get the outer joint out.  I saw the guy swap a driveshaft in and out of my car in around 25 minutes, cost me £25.

 

It wouldn't surprise me if the factory guide told you to have the engine out lol... I know with one of the flap motors it is supposedly a full dash out job, yet I can change it with a ratchet 6mm spanner in about 15 minutes.

[Gaz]

Just a quick confession as I know I'm amongst friends.

 

After I spotted the errant brake spring I undid the guide pin bolts, but couldn't shift the calliper at all, even with a lot of swearing and expletives.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then I let the handbrake off...   

 

Gaz

[0wl]

 

Then I let the handbrake off...   

 

Gaz