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dieselV6

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    Skoda Octavia vRS TDI / Skoda Roomster 1.6TDI CR

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  1. Below are some photos of my vRS using the Crystal 6J x 17 alloys, 205/55/R17 tyres (205/50/R17 will also do), can take winter chains, drive comfortably on cobblestones and gravel and protect the wheels from scuffs, also very good on autobahn right up to the top speed (main limit for driving at top speed is insufficient stock oil cooler on a TDI vRS). Car raised only at the rear, using the parts listed in my earlier post, but you can see that the front lifted too because of the taller rear springs. No steel skid plate, and still undamaged stock plastic underbody engine cover, in fact the only damage I managed so far to underbody covers was by driving too fast into a flooded road, that tore 4 mounts off one of the rear underbody cover plates (already replaced). I am posting it to put some practical example into rough road vRS suspension and wheels thread, as opposed to somewhat academic debacle on tyre sizes. These wheels work well on rough roads as well as on normal roads, and can be used in winter with snow chains. They also fit under the boot floor as a genuine full sized spare wheel YMMV.
  2. I believe you can use 205/50R17 with chains when using the narrower 6Jx17 Crystal wheels, they are official Mk3 pre-FL vRS winter wheels suitable fro 340mm vRS TDI brakes (only post-FL had smaller brakes). I have original Skoda chains sized for these. Regarding handling, 205s are enough also on twisty roads, yes there is difference at the limit, but I drive the car to get me from A to B quickly and reliably, not to monkey around, so theoretical loss of handling does not bother me, and has not bothered me driving 40% heavier MK1 Superb on 205/55/R16 with the same amount of diesel power for 11 years /~220k miles. Plus what you lose in handling, you gain in comfort.
  3. I am sure it will also fit, but again, it is wider, also it is for FL Mk3, OP said 2016 Mk3 so pre-FL. Not that it makes any difference to the fit. On my side, I still prefer narrower alloys/tyres, also because in normal use they wear out more evenly than the wider tyres.
  4. Looks are less relevant, also it so happens, I have the black Crystal alloys on Black Magic car that has the Black Package and so far, people who commented on them seem to like them Having wheels deeper in wheelarches is the whole point here, gravel, mud etc stays in the wheelarches. I also have front and rear mudflaps, this car is for driving fast on autobahn and then driving without damage on poor local roads, not for posing. Not everyone cares about track car looks, especially when practicality suffers. It would seem that the thread much deviates from OP needs 😞
  5. Whatever the Scout or not Scout designation, 5Q0511121AF are taller springs that I use at the rear, and yes, the 0 was missing, a typo. The "Crystal" alloys are 1in narrower (6J x 17) than the "Ratikon" alloys (7J x 17) and as such offer much better wheel protection against scuffing on rough roads when used with a 205mm wide tyre of 55 profile (again better for rough roads than the 225mm lower profile tyres), glad to hear that Ratikon can also be used with 340mm brakes because not all 17in alloys can. OP wanted a more durable setup for rough roads, in my opinion and direct experience, 205/55/R17 wheels with plenty of scuff protection are just right for the job, even 205/50/R17 wheels / tyres with narrow rims will be better than the same tyre size with wider rims or wider tyres/lower profile.
  6. Some not entirely accurate advice above, although I am sure in good faith. Below is a description of my setup that I have been using for almost 4 years /40k+ miles over all kinds of roads across Europe, including some very poor ones as well as autobahn. Take whatever info you want/need out of it, but I reject responsibility for any potential problems/issues If you need 17in rims and want taller profile but narrower tyres with vRS 340mm brakes, you need to go for "Crystal" Skoda alloys or similar, as not all 17in alloys have enough clearance over the 340mm calipers, this affects cooling as well as risks losing balancing weights. With these Crystal rims (originally intended for winter tyres), even a narrower 205mm wide tyre already extends past the rim edge and protects the wheel against scrubbing, by comparison the original 18in rims were sticking out of the stock tyres. I use 205/55/R17 Michelin Cross Climate tyres (the taller Scout winter tyre size) for all-weather capability and good behaviour in the rain. Regarding suspension height, for good handling and least work/expense, it is sufficient to raise just the rear and use Scout tyre size in narrower profile, your comfort will improve a lot, and handling will not suffer much if at all unless you want a track car. Because of long rear overhang, using tall rear springs raises both the rear and the front, although obviously front is raised about half of the rear. Main thing to remember afterwards is to adjust front assist radar in the bumper upwards, half a turn of the correct adjusting screw will do it. Overall, this setup gives about 40mm lift at the back and about 25mm lift at the front, with much improved comfort and good handling IMHO, but I may be biased because I have set up my last 20+ years of 3 Skodas that way (sport suspension front - HD springs rear). I have a manual vRs TDI, and used 2x 5Q511115AF rear springs together with Bilstein Sport B6 24-229890 shocks. Best to replace nuts/bolts connecting the shocks, and on an older car, perhaps also top mounts. I have not replaced front shocks yet but when I do, they will also be Bilstein B6. My parts list for this job, yours might differ (e.g. also top mounts): 2x 5Q511115AF spring (from Scout) 2x N10295101 M10 top nut 4x N90648402 M10x35 susp bolt 2x N10628301 Hex bolt M12x1.5x90 2x N10106402 Hex nut M12x1.5 2x 5Q0511357H stop buffer Scout (longer) 2x Bilstein Sport B6 24-229890
  7. Not only there is no cold monitoring, but in VCDS an intermittent front sidelight failure shows as a rear left side turn signal fault 😒 1 Fault Found: 5898 - Bulb for Rear Left Side Turn Signal B12D0 15 [009] - Open or Short to Plus Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
  8. My vRS's air conditioning compressor is leaking now badly enough to replace it (). I noticed that Skoda's ETKA always substitutes Mahle part for Delphi/Mahle part. Not sure if there is a good technical reason for it. Is it OK to use e.g Denso, Valeo or a NRF compressor where a Mahle one has been originally installed? Will it work without recoding etc.? Perhaps someone has replaced it and can share the experience. The one in my car was Mahle 5Q0820803B, I went through the following part number changes on ETKA: 5Q0820803B->5Q0820803D->5Q0820803J->5Q0820803R->5Q0820803N. Help appreciated.
  9. 205/55/17 tyres give much more comfortable and pothole/kerb resistant ride (tyre side is taller than most kerbs/potholes), probably also better fuel consumption for people who care. The Crystal alloys I have posted about are significantly narrower than the stock 17in Octy wheels, so that even with 205 wide tyres the alloy is protected from scuffs. Of course, with narrower and higher profile tyre handling can reach limits, but frankly unless you are on track it makes little difference.
  10. Deep water in the road can also tear off the underbody covers, I have one waiting to be fitted to my vrs after hitting a temporary road lake at around 50mph at night just before Easter. 3 out of 7 mounting points of the largest cover on passenger side got torn off. No other damage. I noticed that, even accounting for plastic ageing, the new cover is more flexible (replacement part number, original no longer available), it might take similar experience better in future.
  11. Skoda did make Crystal 17in winter alloys fitting VRs's 340mm brakes. Incidentally, you could also get these in black and they complement the vrs black package looks very well. You can fit 205/55/R17 tyres on them without clearance problems (Mk3 Scout has the taller tyre size), though if you desperately want stock vrs wheel diameter you need 205/50R17.
  12. New car 2011/2012 injectors on Roomster's 1.6CR CAYC were often leaky and not durable (well, at least compared to previous VW offerings). After ~10 years 1 failed on my wife's Roomster (electrical failure), decided to replace a pair so I have a spare one handy for a quick fix if needed (new ones took over a week to arrive and the car is almost undriveable with an electrically failed injector). I also found out that another injector was leaking, probably from new, so replacing 2 seems to have vastly reduced my fuel -in-engine-oil experience I had since purchasing the car new back in 2012. At least the injectores on 1.6CR are much easier mechanically to replace than on earlier cars (no need to remove engine cover). New injectors for e.g. CAYC engine have part number 03L130277S , Siemens p/n A2C9626040080 . They take quite a different calibration, so best to update calibration settings with VCDS or similar after replacement, otherwise engine may sound and feel broken for a lot of miles (there is some self calibration, but it takes time and not sure if it can take all the difference). For fuel consumption and smooth engine running it would be best to replace all 4 injectors, but cost is quite steep. I am waiting for another failure before replacing 2 more or deciding it is end of life for the car and putting in the "spare" old injector. Still, given how durable and longer range Roomster is compared to newer offerings, it may be worth to bear the cost.
  13. I found this useful table for anyone wanting to diagnose with VCDS (look at "refrigerant pressure"): https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/633/ So if you see <4 bar before you switch the engine on and the temp outside is 15deg C or above, the airco is low on refrigerant... Hope this helps the next person G65 Pressure vs. Temperature chart (When key is on, engine is off, static system pressure) 15C - 59F - 4.0 bar 20C - 68F - 5.0 bar 25C - 77F - 6.0 bar 30C - 86F - 7.0 bar 35C - 95F - 8.0 bar 40C - 104F - 9.0 bar Important to note about the G65 sensor: - A reading of 0.0 bar would indicate an absolute vacuum - At Sea Level (atmospheric pressure) the typical reading is 1.0 bar
  14. Well, I thought the whole point of overpaying for Skodas lately was that the extended sensors and internal diagnostics should be able to clearly indicate what is wrong 🙂 In any case, I rechecked high pressure side this morning before starting the car, it was 3 bar (2 bar relative) so looked like low on refrigenrant. By the way, even with refrigerant this low, the building up pressure from 5 bar to 9 bar and then the drop to 6.5 bar can be observed as you run the airco, yet it is not cooling at all. Subsequently, I got a low pressure side gauge/trigger from local shop, confirmed low side to be below 10psi 🙄. Well, at least it was still above ambient pressure. One 300g R1234yf topup later, everything is working fine, evaporator temp 0.7-2.3degC, vent temp around 6 deg C upper ones, 8 deg C footwells. I have UV dye in the system now, so if it leaks (2nd topup in 6 years), there will be a chance to find out where. Thanks for answers, just to make it clear, I would not have been asking all these questions about older refrigerant, as I have a gauge and even a leftover half-topup for R134a from previous 3 cars, but the fittings for R1234yf are different. At the same time, a lot more info in VCDS for this car's HVAC, shame they have failed to include low side airco pressure sensor - I guess it would be most useful.
  15. Thanks for replies, seems pressures are at least within the "should work somewhat" range What puzzles me is that there seems no temperature drop after evaporator, it's basically temperature of incoming air - suggest airco not cooling at all, even on low fan settings. How's that even possible when there is refrigerant and it's pumped round? I have just tried flap recalibration, compressor break-in procedure in basic settings, no result. I'm concerrned this is not a refrigerant problem but rather some sensor/wrong temperature readout problem, or some valve not switching, etc.. Makes no sense to do regas IMHO if the problem is elsewhere. Anyone with VCDS/OBD11 who could check temperature after evaporator on their Mk3 ? Fans are modulated, and at around 28% when VCDS read pressure is around 8-9bar. But the airco does not blow out cold air when the car is moving, either, so fans not an issue. I also checked vent temp the old fashioned way, with a probe, never below intake air temp, even at "LO" setting, though as soon as I set "HI" temp, it rises to 40degC and above. So the temp flap is working
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