tetley

I just pulled down with my fingers. It slid straight out with no resistance. Why it could be stuck, I just don't know.

Looking at the video the lever has to be pushed in before turning. Probably why I never got it to lock properly. I must admit I spent a good hour fiddling with that lever. @jaosef Good luck👍. Didn't know you were doing it now.

Here you go.......

It's for when you remove the bearing pin as part of the drain procedure, so the gearbox selector does not move out of position. When I did the gearbox oil change, I removed the bearing pin and held it in my hand as the oil drained then carefully reinserted. The lever used to lock the gearbox is plastic so I was not 100% sure the selector had been successfully locked in position. As long as nothing is moved gearbox wise with the pin removed it should be OK.

CamScanner 06-05-2026 16.48.pdfCamScanner 06-05-2026 16.46.pdf These are the PDF instructions from the workshop manual for the MDP 6 speed gearbox.

I did my gearbox oil for the fist time earlier this year. On my MK2 1.8 TSI you drain the gearbox via the drain plug as you have indicated and by removing one of the "fork bolts". You have to lock the gearbox in position first by moving a plastic locking lever under the air filter box. To fill remove the reverse light switch then using a max 10mm OD tube pushed into the hole a measured amount of oil. This is because the gearbox is mounted at an angle and the fill hole is now below the oil level. My MDP gearbox is 2.3 litres of oil when built but is 1.9 litres when draining and then filling. I suspect yours is the same.

Is the engine running when this happens? With the engine off does the pedal stop at the normal/higher position? When in motion does the pedal stop at the normal/higher position? If so it is normal and you never have noticed before. @Alasdair1 asked the same question a while back, so I thought he would remember. Can everyone confirm this.

On my MK2 FL L&K 1.8TSI I had to remove the carriers to get the discs off. It took an entire day to undo the 2 carrier bolts (2 days to do the rear discs) so if the discs could be removed without removing the carriers I would have done it.

This is the 2009 sales brochure for the MK2's including the limited edition VRS. brochure_octavia.pdf

Do both fobs lock and unlock the car? That alone would tell me the cluster has been cloned.

Maybe speak to that auto electrician again. Both clusters should now start the car if the replacement cluster has been properly cloned.

Simply NOT true. I don't know where your getting your info from but it's wrong. I had my own PETROL cluster replaced with a replacement DIESEL cluster AND of a later version - originally 1Z0920943F SW:03 to a later 1Z0920943S SW: 06. The EEPROM data and software are not the same thing. The later software includes newer bluetooth icons and now displays the message "Press Clutch To Start" but that has no effect. I can still start the car without pressing the clutch as before. The cluster also now supports Maxidot TPMS but again won't work if activated. I got retired forum member @Eddie-NL to do mine. He even changed the part number to the correct revised part number. I don't know all the exact details how he did it but BOTH keys were correctly coded to the car even though the spare was 200 miles away.

"Safelock prevents people breaking a window and reaching in to operate an internal door handle. When enabled, the car doors can't be unlocked from the inside, so there is a safety risk for any passengers who remain in the car if the driver gets out and locks the doors." https://www.trocforums.co.uk/threads/please-check-safelock-vehicle-wallet.3533/

You could use a cloning service instead of trying to obtain SKU/PIN codes. Probably cheaper as well. https://jccars.co.uk/instrument-cluster-repairs-programming/ Half way down the page:- "Our VAG cluster cloning service can be used if you have a faulty Instrument cluster on your vehicle, for example it may be water damaged or have a blown component. If you are looking to replace the cluster on these vehicles you may be aware that you cannot simply remove one from another vehicle & install it onto yours as the cluster is ‘Locked’ to a different vehicles electronic / immobilizer system and the mileage will be incorrect. We have the solution! Simply send us your original (Faulty) cluster & the donor (Replacement) unit & we will transfer the data from your original to the replacement enabling the used unit to work on your vehicle with no further programming necessary. Once the donor unit has been programmed (Cloned) the coding of the unit will be correct & the car will start & function as it should. The mileage display will show the correct mileage of your car & your key data will be transferred – The central locking etc will be unaffected & operate correctly. We do NOT need the PIN code from your vehicle or the donor part to do this operation – We are able to clone these units even if you have ‘No communication’ with diagnostic tools – Your vehicles immobilizer PIN code, Component security number & MAC code is supplied to you at no extra cost with this service."

Mines on 46K with full MOT and servicing history to back it up.