Black vRS Oct

Youre best off getting some verniers on the actual bar

Yes but they'll have slightly different parts numbers for Skoda/VW/seat etc

Yeah I'd risk it. Intermittent issues are a pain. May be worth getting a scanner on it to see what code is stored. Might have just interrupted a dpf cycle

Springs are a nightmare to get right, the original ones would have had a colour code on them.

Likely they re used the lower chain cover (which is almost impossible not to bend) when taking it off.

Don't need to touch the drive shaft bolt for the front brakes? But the 200nm should be done off the ground, further 180° on the ground. Use new bolt, or risk it snapping as they are one time use 'stretch bolts'

Use a new bolt, 3/4 bar and impact socket. It doesn't seem too bad using the proper kit and will ease around to the 180° if you're nice and smooth. It does seem a lot on paper, but I put my trust in the engineers. I personally wouldn't reuse a drive shaft bolt or do it to just xxx as it's essentially what's holding your wheel on.

Carbon build up on the valves causes cold start and running issues. I assume you've scanned it and have no codes? If not, look at getting a carbon clean. Injectors, plugs and coils 'should' throw an engine light

Sounds flywheel related. When was the last oil change & adaption

Two either side, engine mount down the left of engine as you look at it. (transmission mount under the air box) third, sometimes known as the dog bone mount is underneath, holding transmission to subframe. They are quite easy to change, just need to move the coolant bottle/water filler neck for the engine mount. The air box for the transmission mount. just use new bolts as they are stretch bolts. Swap one side at a time. Jack the relevant side from underneath prior to loosening the bolts. Buy Lemforder from autodoc or similar.

Be careful because the rear disc size could be 272 mm. It tends to be the pre-facelift that are 282mm but it is known that some 282 calipers moved over to the face lift production, I assume to use up excess parts. It's a P.I.T.A but I'd take a disc off and measure it, or order both sizes and return the pair you don't need.

Problem is they set the wheel to 'straight' and lock it in, stood from outside the car, which is a big difference to 'straight' sat in the driver's seat. Even an inch can look weird

In all the years of cruising various VAG forums I've never heard of this happen (dsg or not) if it did happen to me, the last thing I'd be concerned about is trying to save/stall the gearbox as the engine will be goosed.

I've been please with Bilstein B6 but run standard springs. You should go B8 or coilovers to run lowered springs

As soon as I read it, I was thinking carbon build up or injectors, but have you used genuine injectors? Without sounding rude you didn't get them off ebay or anything