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Guys, just in case its of any use to anyone that hasn't seen this in my project thread, I thought Id drop a copy in here also.... So, now an interesting development and the first negative of my Yeti ownership experience in the three and a half years I've had her. Ive often read that people have had issues with their panoramic sunroofs leaking into the foot wells of the car. However, ive never had an issue with water ingress and Ive even tried to make it leak in the past (being in warranty then!) with the use of a hose! The car has also been parked up in absolutely torrential storms in the last coupe of years (one was so bad that it almost trapped us in Altea, Spain by causing multiple landslides across the mountain roads below where we were staying!) But whatever conditions we've hit, the cabin has always remained 100% watertight. Therefore, you could probably guess how surprised I was to go to the car recently and see a few drips down the inside of the passenger foot well below the A-pillar. Admittedly, the rain over night was probably the longest and hardest we'd seen in years in the UK but I was surprised none the less! I removed a couple of internal panels to see if I could work out exactly where it was coming in. First I removed the dashboard passenger side end panel - I found a series of drips running down from above so that meant I had to remove the passenger side A pillar trim, higher up. This now gave me a clear look at the passenger side sunroof drain (in red) and the surrounding area. The drips were coming from higher up but I wanted to spend some time trying various methods of clearing any blockage before removing any more internal panels.... I tried different methods of clearing any blockage but I was concerned I could possibly cause more issue if I caught the rubber drainage duct internally with something too hard or from just being too aggressive. It was clear that there was certainly dirt and gunk built up inside the channels BUT when I poured water into the sunroof surround to test, most of it was appearing fairly quickly at the external drainage hole (the hole by the door hinge). Even though most was coming straight through and into the outside world.... there was still some dripping freely down the A pillar, internally into the cabin. So I carried on looking further up towards the roof... What I saw (and really didn't like) was the use of black cable ties directly onto the flexible rubber drainage pipe. The one at the top of the A-pillar appeared to have been done too tightly from the factory. Ive pulled the drainage channel down very slightly in the above photo so you can see the mark it had made. It was squeezing the rubber drain tight and restricting its flow by probably 30%. So, was this the problem? Well it certainly wasn't helping but the actual problem could be found still further up towards the sunroof surround... Having removed the rubber door sill slightly as well as the passenger interior grab handle and sunvisors from the roofs interior, I could just see up into the void between the interior roof skin and the sunroof surround. It looked as though the white connector on the end of the red drain channel was the part actually leaking. To me, it felt as though it had too much movement on the end of the black sunroof drain channel connector. So at this point I decided Id done enough investigating and hatched a proper plan to resolve not only this specific issue but to also ensure I wouldn't have the issue in the future... from either this or one of the other three sunroof drainage outlets. Over the course of the next three evenings I stripped the interior roof skin out so I had full and unhindered access to all four of the drainage outlets. Once done, how much effort did it take to see if my gut feeling was correct? Very little is the answer, the drainage pipe came away from the black connector far too easily for my liking. My plan: Remove each of the drainage outlets from the four corners of the sunroof frame surround. Clear out the drains properly by use of compressed air and cleaning agents that were kind to the rubber. Reattach the drain connectors with a specific waterproof sealer and adhesive. Cable tie the connectors to ensure a 100% watertight refit. Fully test for water tightness before refitting the internal trim panels. Just clearing out the drainage channels made a massive difference in how quickly water emptied from the sunroof surround to the ground via the four drainage point (front two by the door hinges, rear two out the back by the top of the tailgate). After my second evening, I ended up with this... Four connectors, all with waterproof sealant internally (very carefully done to ensure that none made its way to anywhere near the actual inside of the red drain pipe) as well as externally at the top of the white connector to the black sunroof frame surround and lower down on the underside of the white connector where it met with the red drainage pipe. Then I put a cable tie in place to ensure it was clamped tight. I wasn't taking any chances and wanted to do a proper job to save me any further issues in the future. Result: Problem cured and unlikely to happen again due to it being a better solution than the factory did imo and everything back together perfectly with no evidence of water ingress issues - mainly due to catching it quickly and resolving it within a couple of days. I can only assume that the heat and cold must loosen the connection between the hard plastic sunroof surround and the slightly softer plastic white connector over time. Trust it to finally 'let go' six months out of warranty but I'm happy with the fix.

This should be list of the main replacement/upgrade part numbers that people usually ask for. Please double check with your dealer the correct part numbers! Although I am 98% that these are correct, VAG can change them and the info that I have could be wrong! KDA 770 001 = Set of 4 door sill kick plates, plain black plastic. KDA 770 003 = Set of 4 door sill kick plates, black plastic with stainless steel inserts. FCA 000 001 = Set of 3 stainless steel pedal covers (fitted as standard to Scout). FFA 700 010 = Leather handbrake handle AZO 700 001 = Facia adaptor with cubby hole to fit a single DIN aftermarket stereo into the OEM double DIN slot KCD 779 001 = Set of 2 wind & Rain deflectors for front windows. KCD 779 002 = Set of 2 wind & Rain deflectors for rear windows. KEA 700 001 = Set of 2 front mudflaps. KEA 770 002 = Set of 2 rear mudflaps. KEA 770 003 = Set of 2 rear mudflaps for Scout. ZGB 5J0 072 100 = Headlight protectors pre face lift only. DCC 770 101A = Set of 4 rubber floor mats DAC 770 102 = Set of 4 textile floor mats DAC 770 103A = Set of 4 deep textile floor mats GCA 700 001 = Under seat fire extinguisher holder. GCA 000 001 = Fire extinguisher. K1Z 086 856 5FY20 = sunglasses holder in roof???. 1Z0 868 565 EY20 = sunglasses holder in roof???. 6Y0 881 577 A47H = Left side under seat storage box fits all old & new Fabias & Roomster. 6Y0 881 578 A47H = Right side under seat storage box fits all old & new Fabias & Roomster. 8P0 802 847 = Plastic Jack Pad Plugs (from Audi S3) projecting 15mm from buffer, 4 required. 8N0 803 855 = Plastic jack pad plugs (from Audi TT) flush fit to buffer, 4 required 8N0 804 583 = Rubber Buffers - (from Audi), 4 required 5J0 071 606 = Front bumper spoiler FAA 770 002 = Rear bumper diffuser KDA 609 002A = Chrome effect boot strip KGA 770 001 = Protective side strips FDC 779 001 = Chrome effect exhaust trim for 1.2HTP, 1.4 16v, 1.6 16v, 1.2TSI FDC 779 002 = Chrome effect exhaust trim for 1.4 TDI, 1.9 TDI, 1.2TDI CR, 1.6TDI CR I am ADDing to this at the momemet as I have a big list of stuff!..

Wanted to add my building/retrofit/cool-stuff experiences. Always hard to find detail and pictures in the wild so hoping this helps others. Badge and Emblem Replacement - Major Reason - I think the Black looks much better on the Steel Grey body paint than the factory chrome. Tips/Tricks/How-To 1) Give yourself plenty of time and make sure its not going to rain......the warmer the better as it makes removal easier. 2) Hair dryer on a low-setting will help to "loosen" the glue. Well its not glue its more like double-sided sticky-pad material. My car is only a month old so it may be harder on older cars as the adhesive will have set and the padding may come off in little pieces instead. 3) I used dental floss to "saw" through the glue holding the badges and emblems in place. You can use minty-fresh or plain dental floss :-) The front and rear badge have A LOT of the sticky-padding so keep working away at it. I found using an old ATM Card allows you to pry it off and doesn't scratch the paint. There are also 3 protruding plastic notches on the rear of the badge so it won't come off as easy as the emblems. Be warned it is near impossible to get the badges off without snapping them. The joy of the black protruding notches is that it will only line up and fit one way......and that's perfectly straight. 4) I used blue masking tape (painters-tape) to line up the original emblems as once you remove the sticky-pad and the residual adhesive you WON'T see the outline of the old emblems. After the work and cost you don't want to screw it up and have the emblem not straight........it'll **** you off every time you admire your work!! 5) Cleaning off the residual adhesive I used rubbing-alcohol and a CLEAN buffing cloth. Its easier if you can grab a little piece of the pad and SLOWLY pull it off as it comes off in one nice movement without the need to scrape off the adhesive with a fingernail. 6) Shine a light and look for any imperfections, you want the surface to be spotless, clean and dry before fitting the replacements. The joy of rubbing-alcohol is that it dries quick and leaves no residue. They're pretty much the factory-part so remove the rear protective strip and then line it up and press hard on the individual letters. I also used a paint-roller to roll over the emblem before removing the protective clear plastic just to be sure it was stuck on nice and flat. 7) Link for the badges and emblems. You can buy individual or a "pack". I opted for the body-paint coloured front and rear badges and the 3-pack for the emblems. http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-original-Skoda-emblem-INT-version http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-original-Skoda-MONTE-CARLO-black-emblem-set-´SKODA´--´OCTAVIA´--´RS-245´