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Hi all The Superb Mk3 AWD is fitted with a 5th generation Haldex. Regarding VAG Group, and Skoda in particular, it also equips: Octavia 3, Superb 2, Karoq, Kodiaq. It may also apply to Scala and Kamiq, unless they're equipped with 6th generation. I actually don't know for these latter. Since I have limited trust in garages in my neighborhood and because I like 'DIYing' on my car, I've decided to change the oil of my Haldex system on my own. If one follows Skoda recommendations, workshop manuals (see cardiagn.com) only mention a simple oil replacement every 3 years and that's it! But when you start diving into documentations or in youtube videos about 5th gen Haldex, you can notice that the oil pump has an intern strainer, which trends to get really dirty, whereas it's never cleaned ! Hence, here is this humble tutorial ! I apologize, if there are any vocabulary issues... I'm French. Firstly, here are all elements, that we're going to look at: #13 : Bleeder screw (M10x30) - P/N N 910 827 01 (tightening torque 38 Nm for Superb Mk3, but on other VAG model it may be 32Nm - Have a look to the workshop manual corresponding to your car. See cardiagn.com) #14 : Filler screw (M10x1x10) - P/N N 902 818 02 (tightening torque 15 Nm) #3 : Retaining screw (M6X35) for the Haldex Control Unit - P/N N 105 540 05 (tightening torque 9,5 Nm) #11 : Retaining screw (M6X35) for the Haldex hydraulic pump - P/N N 105 540 05 (tightening torque 9,5 Nm) #9 : O-rings for the pump - P/N 0CQ 598 305 (⚠️Note : This P/N is a kit, which includes both O-rings, but also both retaining screw #11! Don't by these screws twice!) Gear Oil : According to ifinterface.com: P/N G 065 175 A2 or According to what dealer sold me: P/N G 60 175 A2 - 850 ml (~29.9 fl oz) By the way, don't forget to check that the oil can actually contains 850ml through the gauge on the side of the can. Indeed, just for the short story, the oil can I had bought only contained 750ml, though brand new and still crimped . I had to go back to the dealer to exchange the oil can. The requested volume for the maintenance operation is usually around 700-720 ml (24.6-25.3 fl oz), thus it leaves little room for error (and even less if the can is not filled correctly). The total bill was ~75 € for all parts (without screws #3, which you don't need to change). - Difficulty : 2 - Time needed : 1h30 approx. - Number of person needed : 1 - Necessary tools : ¤ Screws #3 and #11 : Torx T30 or 10mm Hex socket, if you don't have Torx ¤ Screw #13 : 8mm Hex ¤ Screw #14 : 5 mm Hex ¤ For Hydraulic pump strainer screws : Torx T10 ¤ Ratchet or classic wrenches for disassembly ¤ Torque wrench(es) to apply specified torques: (9,5 / 15 / 38 Nm) ¤ Short and intermediate extensions for ratchet or torque wrenches to enable easier access to screws ¤ A small flat screwdriver ¤ Oil drip tray ¤ Rags ¤ 1 wooden toothpick ¤ Lifting means ¤ Syringe for oil filling Dealing with the syringe, I've bought this one for 20-25€ on Amazon. It makes the job perfectly! Step #0 : Preparation You need to lift the car high enough to get under the car and to get enough space to move your arms comfortably. In my case, 370mm (~14.5") of ground clearance were enough. Note: Though you've lifted the car, it needs to remain horizontal to make a proper filling with right oil level (see step 5). If this case, I had to compensate the natural slope of the ground. Step #1 : Oil draining Start with the filler screw (#14 / blue square) removal for more safety. Indeed, if it's stuck, you won't be "snooked", with a completely empty Haldex oil tank and no way to refill it. Once you've removed the filler screw. Don't get rid of it immediately. You'll need it again temporarily for Step #4! Now, you can remove the bleeder screw (#13 / red circle). There's no difficulty to remove these 2 screws. There are 2 good news for this step: - The drain screw is long enough, so that you won't get surprised, when the thread gets totally disengaged from the housing. - Even if the drain screw has an horizontal axis, there's only a small quantity of oil, and since it is very fluid, it flows well vertically from the edge of the hole. Little chance of getting trapped with the oil, which flows suddenly and farther than the drip tray. Phew! However, it takes several minutes to really let all the oil drain: Step #2 : Hydraulic pump removal Whereas oil is still dripping, start removing 2 retaining screws (#3) for the Haldex Control Unit. They are quite easy to access with a small 1/4'" ratchet. After that, you can rotate the Haldex Control Unit, to bring the connectors on the top upside down. This simple operation will help you saving a huuuuuuge amount of time ! But this tip is explained / told nowhere!!! Otherwise, you will have to disconnect the pump connector 'blind'... And if you do this operation for the first time, You hardly understand how to proceed. Decency leads me to shut up the time that I spent trying to remove this µ%£$@&# connector before I changed my mind on the operating process. Pump connector before Control Unit removal : Once the 2 retaining screws of the Control Unit have been removed, you can easily access to the connector: Now simply insert a small screwdriver in the notch (red circle) and push in the arrow direction. Very simple... Then, you need to unclip the black plastic wire protection, which keeps the pump wiring away from the propeller shaft. It's clipped in 2 locations on each side of the shaft, You just need to pinch the 2 lugs at their end to make them go back through the hole in the housing. Left side (Control Unit side) : The upper red circle in the mirror shows what you hardly see in the lower dotted circle... It's clearly the circled part, that has to be pinched and then pushed/pulled in the arrow direction. Right side (pump side), just proceed the same way : The pump wire is now fully free. You can now remove the 2 retaining screws (#11) of the hydraulic pump (#10). Very easy too. Warning from this point, it will be 'Apocalypse pump' ! Please keep children and sensitive souls away from following pictures! Pull in the pump axis direction, while rotating it around its axis in one direction and then the other to ease the removal. Be very careful, when the pump is about to get out completely, not to strike the contact surface of the housing, nor to strike the pump strainer. FYI, the strainer is not sold alone. It's sold with the pump, which approximately costs 180-200 € (w/o VAT) ! And there, under your dumbfounded eyes , here is the sinister spectacle that awaits you: A strainer almost entirely clogged with sh**t! And the pump housing is not even better... FYI, this Haldex is only 2.5 years old and has only 45000 km (~28000 mi) on the clock. And considering the way I use my car, I don't think the Haldex faces a heavy duty use. Therefore, as I already mentioned somewhere on this forum, one can only notice that the oil replacement process in the maintenance manual for the Haldex 5th generation is clearly incomplete ! By the way, look at this video below from ~28 mn, you'll see the impact of the strainer cleaning on the pump demand signal ... It's clearly a proof that w/o a strainer cleaning, the pump unnecessarily faces severe conditions and that sooner or latter there's a risk of pump failure... Step #3 : Pump cleaning and reassembly Since the pump is now removed, you need to remove the strainer. Use a Torx T10 for both screws: Then wipe the pump dry with a rag, being careful not to get the dirt into the ports. Fort the strainer, a cleaning with some white spirit and a soft paintbrush. But be careful, not to brush to hard to avoid tearing the strainer mesh, which is very thin!!! Eventually, a simple soaking in a small glass of white wine ... sorry , I mean... White Spirit should help removing most of the dirt and finishing finely with the paintbrush. Let the strainer dry, while you remove both O-rings around the pump, using a wooden toothpick as a lever. It will avoid hurting the grooves. You can now, clean the area between both grooves with white spirit. Once everything is clean, you can mount the strainer back onto the pump. Be careful ⚠️ ! I didn't find any information about their tightening torque. Thus be sure to tighten enough to firmly place the strainer on the pump body (to make a good seal against dirt), but not too hard to avoid risks of cracking the plastic. Shall I remind you the price of the pump, just in case ?!? Now, pour some drops of fresh oil in a small container. By the way, FYI : Haldex used Oil 2.5 years old & 28000 mi on the clock / Haldex fresh oil Put few oil drops on both O-rings to lubricate them and install them onto the pump. Keep using the wooden toothpick if needed. The pump is now ready to be mounted back onto the car : Now, you can clean the housing with rags before putting the pump back in place: Don't forget the bearing surface, where the threads of the retaining screws are located. Here you can see some dirt left, that I removed right after taking the picture... You can now put the pump back into the housing. Be careful, not to pinch both O-rings . Once there's only 5-6mm (1/5 -1/4") between bearing surfaces of the pump and the housing, it gets a bit harder to push in by hand. This is probably caused by O-rings, which may act as a slight "bead" to efficiently seal. You now realize how clever it is, to lubricate both O-rings to prevent them from rolling inside out and to make this operation even more difficult. When the pump stops into the housing, you can put 2 retaining screws back in place (#3 - tightening torque = 9,5 mm) Put the black palstic pump wire protection in the correction position and clip it into both holes. Be careful, you still work 'blind' (unless you have a small mirror) . Reconnect the pump connector on the Haldex Control Unit and rotate the Haldex in its normal position. Watch out to rotate the Control Unit in the correct direction not to twist unnecessarily the pump wire. Put both retaining screws to fix the control unit (#3 - tightening torque = 9,5 Nm). For the lower screw, the propeller shaft flector is slightly in the way and leads you to put the bit with a small angle. But you can still manage to have enough grip with the bit to tighten. You can now install the new bleeder screw (#13 - tightening torque = 38 Nm). Step #4 : Oil filling According to the workshop manual, the filling shall be performed with an oil temperature between 20°C and 40°C (68°F / 104°F). If the ambient temperature is to low, put the oil can in a bucket filled with hot water for a while to bring the oil at the right temperature. You can now inject fresh oil in the filling hole (see blue square, on the 5th picture) with the syringe. You have to fill with oil, until it overflows. This should be approximately 650ml (~22 fl oz). Put the OLD filler screw back in place temporarily and tight it slightly. Yes, you've been told to keep it upon removal at step #1! Do you remember? ! Etape 5 : Oil level adjustment and ending Start the engine and let it run for ~1mn, to let the hydraulic pump fill with oil correctly. Shut the engine down, then remove the old filler screw again (#14 / still the blue square on the 5th picture ). Top up with oil until it overflows again, and you can put the new filler screw to finalize the operation (#14 - tightening torque 15 Nm). That's it! Fresh oil! Clean pump strainer! Happy Skoda owner! ... You can put the car back onto the floor now ! Now it's up to you!

That's the usual setting for DRL, I know it's possible to change the adaptation channel sin the #09 module on an Octavia III to get the rear sidelights on also but nt sure about on the Karoq.

Less than 25 actually. 22 on a good day. mostly short trips to school, shopping, parents etc and popping on charge. rarely do much motorway mileage but then when I do it can be long journeys. I put in 18 litres last week (because I’ve started driving to work again - 50 mile trip - but not every day). the last time I put fuel in before then was in December (31 litres) and I’d done nearly 2300 miles in that period of 6 months using 31 litres and mostly electric. car takes 7.5kWh (allowing for including any inefficiencies) and I tend to charge at less than 5p/kWh because of the tariff I’m on. (I also have access to free charging which I regularly do 2-3 times a week but let’s not include that as it’s not permanent). so 37.5p for a full charge. Divided by 20 miles gives me 1.9p/mile. If factor in the regular free charging and the often sub 5p/kWh tariff and I’m nearly at 1p/mile. if I do the work commute, OBC tells me my 50 mile round trip, mostly on motorway with 50-60 speed restrictions, is about 60-70mpg. Definitely not 1p/mmile there!

In this forum many people will say that the best tyres go to the rear. It's beyond my mind, why should I do that way but I usually try to put the best tyres on the front axle. Why? For the front drive car the front axle needs the best grip and best tyres for braking (you know that front brakes do the most of job). If you are planning to drive in a snow, just in case, then definetely best tyres go to the front.

Not sure what part of the UK you are situated but checking my local Skoda dealer, Marshalls Leicester brings just 2 Kodiaq 7 seaters which seem to have quite a premium over the cheaper 5 seaters. £17,800 Sept 2017 2.0 TDi 150bhp 4 x 4 with 38,562 miles (0116) 231 7060. £20,490 April 2017 1.4TSi 150bhp DSG with 21,520 miles number as above. Think you are going to struggle with your £16,000 budget however.

There is no capacity increase on the 1.5 vs. the 1.4. The combustion cycle has changed and with it brought a whole host of issues that Skoda and VAG are still trying to resolve. Most have been fixed with software updates but there is still a large proportion of 1.5 TSI engines out there that aren't right. Personally I'd buy new and hope they've prioritised fixing factory production and avoid used ones, or do as I did and buy a 1.4 TSI, a far better engine. To make a non-SportLine look like a SportLine you'll need new front and rear bumpers (painted), new plastic panels for the lower doors (again painted), black window surrounds (no chrome), black mirror caps, black roof rails, black grill surround and a set of 19" Vega alloy wheels. For 8,000 miles a year I'd avoid diesel, but as you like the torque of a diesel then I'd go for the 150PS and map it. The 190PS is rumoured to not be as smooth. Your £16,000 budget really limits you. I'd be tempted to wait and save enough to get the car you really want.

Picked my 2018 Superb Sportline Estate up a couple of days ago... already love it!

Hello everyone, 😄 Very happy to be able to create this post. I have been lusting after one of these since 2008/2009 when they were introduced but was too young to even have a license back then! I was heartbroken when they got discontinued... But I was lucky enough to find one as close to new as possible AND with my perfect spec that I used to dream of!!! This is my Scirocco R in Candy White with pan roof, 19" Talladegas and R cloth seats (my preference over leather). It's a manual gearbox with 18k miles from new and one owner. Full VW history too. It is virtually brand new. This is NOT my main car, I intend to keep the mileage low only driving it on weekends. My commuting work is still done by the 16 Fabia 😁 I know it isn't everyones cup of tea but it is literally my dream car so I wanted to share 😋

At the drive-in "Film on the farm" last night, shown to position so that we can see the screen. Engine off, settle down, wait for the film. A few minutes after it starts there's a few raindrops. Ignition on (push-button, as it's keyless). Wipe screen, ignition off. Odd - after a few minutes the low-level lights are still on. Thinks - the car senses that we are in it so keeps them on for a bit. These things are sooooo clever. After a few more minutes, man appears - we've had trouble with a few new Beamers, lights go off after about 15 minutes. Oh, OK then. After a lot more minutes another man appears (I have now lost the plot of Jurassic Park). He asks if the keys are in - no, they don't go in. Then - bright idea! What if you turn that switch to off? Yes, that did it. I should have thought of that - the rotary light switch. Sorry to the car behind, and the one in front ...

He said as useful as a Toc H Lamp, meaning that they are crap 😛 Toc H Lamp...

The VIN does not hold information as to the paint code. I believe the paint code forms part of the Vehicle Data Sticker, one of which is usually found affixed into the 2nd inside back page of the Owners Manual and another stuck in the vehicle luggage compartment.

You've almost got it back together right in your pics, but there's a little spring missing. You can just about see it on the side of this pic from my install:

Why not join Freedom and advertise it in the Classifieds section on here?

The previous owner was apparently an older fellow so I imagine he didn't stretch the car as much as it would have liked. I think he barely drove it in all those 9 years of owning it. The car is in immaculate condition apart from the EGR valve! Thanks for your suggestions and advice Bertie, it's really appreciated! And thanks mrgf, hopefully those extra key words will help my case! And I did wonder if perhaps my driving has just done the car over, I really have no clue! I've tried to stretch it here and there and not accelerate / rev too hard but boy the car likes / wants to FLY!

I have a Focus RS for fun and the Superb 280 estate (which I bought 2nd hand). The Superb obviously isn't as quick, nor as sharp in corners (than the Focus) but it's pretty good for such a massive car. My car is a L&K 280 with DCC (DCC makes a big difference). I did consider the Golf R Estate but the Superb was a better option for me given that: - it's more practical for children / car seats (mostly due to sheer size) - it's less nickable (and therefore much cheaper insurance) - it's also slightly cheaper and much easier to find with heated windscreen (finding a Golf R with the windscreen is hard). I think this is an essential option for the UK. I'm delighted with my purchase. For reference I'm in my low 30s with 2 children and the space in the Superb is wonderful for massive car seats! Some good thoughts above!

You're right but Highlander19 is looking for a Yeti, no Yeti has a petrol DPF. So not something for him to have to worry about.

Note all new Skodas will have Petrol Particulate Filters, which are a petrol DPF. Simpler than the DPF, but a bit of an unknown quantity just now. Also known as GPF (gasoline) and OPF (Otto)

You lost it long ago as an Armchair expert. You call others that, yet get your info from a search engine. Say what comes to mind. Leaky roof, leather seats, maybe slippery when wet.

for what it’s worth, mine is showing the same wear pattern. There’s around 1mm difference between the front and rear after 55k miles. I did swap front to rear once at around 20k miles but haven’t really bothered since due to the relatively even tyre wear. As a proportion of its mileage, my car does very little accelerating out of junctions which is where I guess a lot of the extra front tyre wear comes from (accelerating hard and cornering). Edited to add that my car is AWD

It's beyond quite a lot of people's minds, but that doesn't mean it's wrong.

I see that I have previosly responded to this thread with some weird text... I've noticed that my car increases revs to ~1k in 3 cases: 1) hot weather (with AC on - needs extra power for it). If you turn AC off, the revs should decrease (not immediately, though); 2) cold weather - while engine is cold, it's normal thing. Usually goes to normal after some warming up. 3) DPF regeneration on. So, in hot weather try to avoid AC in a test drive and watch revs then. In cold weather after certain warm up revs should be in the normal range. DPF thing - well, until it's finished. At least for my car these high revs are common thing in certain situations.

Loofer, if you think you might need 4WD for winter weather, it's far better to have FWD with all-season tyres than 4WD with summer tyres (and you'll get a quieter, more compliant ride as a bonus). Interesting to see the comments on tyre wear: my previous car, Golf Alltrack, had fairly even tyre wear F&R, fronts wearing only marginally quicker.

That would be fun! "What pedal box sir?? Do you mean to tell us you had fitted non approved equipment on the car??" You lose your pedal box and your warranty with one shot...

Check/replace the fuse if you haven't already, relay coil fuse is number 10 in the e-box, should be 5-amp rated. Look for corrosion or looseness of contacts, as well as fuse itself. If that is OK, check continuity between ECU pin 49, and pin 6 of the 40-way connector to the e-box, that's the wire which the ECU grounds to energise the coil.

It is a 2 minute job for a fitter / valeter or even a tech to whip it off and pocket it and claim they know nothing. Never seen it, no idea what you are talking about. Actually you can take things with a pinch of salt or spend some time working in garages and not just being a customer.

BMW 225XE. the Outlander PHEV is only in 5 seat guise and I don’t think can be converted due to floor pan containing batteries etc. the XC90 and Tesla S/X are out of my budget. so I’m looking at regular 7 seaters and the bear took my fancy over some of the others.

That's exactly what I meant: If he leaves it on the car as suggested, it doesn't make any difference if they scan the car or not. It's not a software map that would trigger the flash counter or would leave any other trace. So it only makes sense to either a) remove it from the vehicle completely (safe approach) or b) leave it on in a setting that does not make the car jump forward every time you touch the throttle (pedal box's aggressive setting) and hope nobody notices (most probable). The request to not run updates does not ensure anything, apart from maybe missing something that would need to be carried out in his car, for example the passenger's dipping mirror update that fixes the issue with the mirror not reverting back to its set position after dipping. That been said it's a 2 min job to remove and install, but I have dropped mine with it still connected in the past and nobody gave one, had warranty work carried out afterwards without issues, but that as I said might depend on how "enthusiastic" the dealership employees are. For the "let them knon non approved components are fitted", you're too serious today!

Bought the diffuser from an ebay vendor. He didn't include the exhaust tip. It was too late when I found out what was going on with the tdis melting the plastic. Anyways the Octavia cup diffuser is far more aggressive and better looking, couldn't be happier. Shame I didn't decide on it from the start. It needs to be painted and glued to the bumper with a strong sealant.

@newbie69 Fair enough. Just let them know that it is fitted then so that there is no confusion at the Service Desk or in the workshop. Let them know that Non Factory approved components fitted.

Mpg doesn’t sound that bad with that sort of run With the extra weight of 4 x 4,but the FIX did appear to effect the lower powered 2.0l the most, in more ways than mpg from reading the posts at the time.

It's not detectable by a diagnostics test so he doesn't really need to worry if they run any, a remap is different. In fact he might actually want them to run any pending updates for his car?

Ah.... @JR RS does appear to have them without the headlights being on. Maybe that's down to the retrofit coding?

Leave the box in place as it won't be noticed - unless you've excessively ramped up the response.

Dear Wino, would like to thank you for your prompt reply and support. Just wanted to let you know that this weekend we have replaced the steering rack since it was slightly damaged when fixing the engine mount as you have indicated clearly. After replacing the rack the system was refreshed from errors, since the steering warning light came on and there we go, working to perfection . thanks for your support .

Same block different head, most 1.5 versions fitted with ACT (Active Cylinder Technology) which disables 2 cylinders under light loads.

A tape measure? One is 1 1/2 times the size of the other.🙂

Thats what the Haynes manual ALWAYS says!!

OK. Feel free to ask! If you want to change the brake fluid easily, one good tip, is to buy this kind of pressure filling system: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sfeomi-Capacity-Pneumatic-Bleeding-Replacement/dp/B082TWBDWC/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QWHT45AY5D0U&dchild=1&keywords=brake+fluid+bleeder+kit&qid=1595803961&sprefix=brake+fluid+b%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-7 I've bought one, and that's really easy and efficient to use!

You can stick with what you have, just remember to give it a decent long run frequently to avoid any DPF problems. If you choose to change to a newer 1.2 petrol you will not be disappointed and not have to worry about DPF or any emission associated problems. The manual version is likely to be a “safer” buy if you believe the concerns expressed about the 7 speed DSG box (do a quick search on this Forum and Google), however, no one I know has ever had any problems and I certainly haven’t had the slightest qualm about the DSG box. The pros of the DSG box is that it is simply less tiring to drive in traffic and everyday motoring, personally I would only have an automatic car as I don’t see the attraction of clutch in, clutch out repeatedly in traffic - maybe my 74 year old knees would complain! You just put it into D-rive when you set off and that’s it until you arrive at your destination. If it was me I would be tempted to look for the highest spec 1.2 petrol SEL Drive DSG I could find with a reversing camera, power drivers seat and variable boot floor. Reversing camera because until you have one you don’t know what you’re missing, power drivers seat because you can set the seat, mirrors etc just where you like them and then the seat remembers that setting, your partner can do the same and it remembers their settings and you can swap between the 2 (or 3) at the touch of a button. Variable boot floor because it gives you 33% more luggage space than one with a spare tyre yet has a flat loading bay floor for everyday use.

This is all information that you should have posted in the OP. If the ECU doesn't know what the methanol kit is doing, it's dangerous as the engine is effectively out of control. This is also a question that should be put to your tuner rather than asking here, as the tuner (assuming they're competent and familiar with what you're trying to do) is going to have a better idea of how to do this. If the tuner has already suggested that this is a bad idea, it would be a good idea to listen to them.

We just use my wife’s Citigo for the very short trips to shops etc. The Yeti doesn’t get used now unless it is a decent trip or I need the space. It can’t soot up if not used for short trips, but is great for going out on trips, on holiday etc. When you consider the cost to change why not just pick up a Citigo instead? We paid £8k last year for a 5 month old preregistration one with 25 miles on the clock. I enjoy driving it as well, handles like a go cart!

Skoda told me Age - 5 years or Mileage - 140,000 however id never go near those, its a big bill if it breaks

@newbie69 and for all AWD Superb 3 owners: I've just released the tutorial to change the Haldex oil on your own: Enjoy! 😎😉

really depends on budget. A decent "named" brand unit is going to be upwards of £800 + ............................like this for example.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KENWOOD-DNX518VDABS-VW-T5-SAT-NAV-BLUETOOTH-DAB-APPLE-CARPLAY-ANDROID-AUTO/182056592454?epid=16025582226&hash=item2a636b2446:g:6PUAAOSwRjxcCVLJ its the Apple play that adds the cost considerably. the other option is a Factory Nav unit like an RNS315 or 510, will do everything you want EXCEPT Apple play....... but will be around £350 ish..... Both options above avoid the chinese rubbish.

Evening guys few updates for you finally everything is wired up and ready to rock and roll ready for mapping on Monday. i added a few picture in of my acceleration pedal sensitivity button aswell pictured below that I have had installed for Around four years now. the greddy Profec OLED just needs some double sided sticky tape for above the steering wheel and the water meth with the failsafe gauge working getting a gauge pod fabbed up and painted as we speak and a little video below had to compress the quality due to 10mb max upload hope everyone has a good weekend IMG_4111.mov IMG_4111.mov

lots of people fit the cheap chinese units etc etc and then realise how bad they are, they are cheap though..............albeit for a reason. You say you want apple play ??? for what exactly ? music or satnav or ??

Tnx for clarifying that💪

this one still works mate cope and paste it https://mega.nz/#!h1dkiaQZ!yhdd--xrkMGjNMEMslkXjLo4VgNzqtHzG1jumO6PsIU

UK importer specifies every 4 years or 100000 miles. Skoda CZ says at 210000 km without a time limit.