Jump to content

DrPinball

Members
  • Posts

    65
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    PR Consultant, fixes pinball machines, drinks beer & reviews films. Thoroughly decent sort of bloke really.
  • Location
    East Anglia

Car Info

  • Model
    Yeti 1.4 TSI

Recent Profile Visitors

1,876 profile views

DrPinball's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/17)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Reacting Well
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

40

Reputation

  1. I never use the park assist on Hetty, by the time it's engaged I have already parked using the Parking sensors and the rear view camera I fitted. The PA was bought for She Who Must Be Obeyed, who has never used it despite insisting on the option (reason: too fiddly) I have used the PA when the space is really tight and there is is time to crawl along with it engaged. All in all for our next Yeti we are going to just go with the parking sensors and rear view camera.
  2. Worse, American - Apples inability still not be able to cut and paste correctly.
  3. This may help:- http://www.oemretrofits.co.uk/manuals/RNS310-RNS315-Manual.pdf Reverting to factory settings Resetting to the original conditions deletes all pre- vious inputs, destinations and settings. • IntheSystemsetupmenu,pressthe Factorysettings functionbutton. • In the following confirmation prompt, press Yes inordertoresetthedevicetoitsoriginalcon- dition.
  4. Love Hettie, two and a half years in she's still hands down the happiest drive I've owned. I used to do upwards of 50,000 miles a year and I had a new car every 18 months on the company. Vauxhalls, Fords, an Audi, a Mazda (excellent), a Mitsubushi (also great), a VW, a Seat and some Citroens so like many here I think I've had enough experience of various cars to make a decent judgement. Where we are it can be easy driving or plain muddy, last Christmas after a Carol service at a local stately home Hettie ( with ESP etc off) toddled out of a field full of stuck cars. Then we threw a rope to them and helped tow them out, I went home feeling stupidly happy with the thanks of a load of folk ringing in my ears. The other week I picked up a pinball table for repair, 1900mm long in parts the owner snorted and said "you'll never get that in there". As I drove away with the lid shut having spent ten minutes answering his Yeti questions I was wearing 'The Yeti Smile' again.........best car I've owned.
  5. Had the same issue with Hetties pedal, silicon did not really work so I fixed it permanently by slipping a small piece of packing (in this case a window space wedge) under the pedals base plate. Yes I know that it's a bodge but it's been a fix for over a year now and it's simple, more importantly with a trim its also invisible too.
  6. Hetti was born in June 2013, she's a 1.4 TSI, other than some idiot backing into the rear door she's been a cracking car to date. I
  7. Just want to say many thanks for this one folks. I fed my 1.4 TSI VCDS output into the generator mentioned above: http://carsareweapons.com/golfR.html and it was immediately accepted and works like a charm. Chatting to a friend who is a VAG mechanic he pointed out that on the other VAG cars which come with this feature enabled even when the ESP is put into the 'off' state it is not truly disabled rather it just makes the stability system far less sensitive.....although I probably won't test this myself it may be good for others to know :-)
  8. Ironic after all our chat it appears that I've bought it from you after my original camera was smashed in tesco's car park - thanks for the quick despatch it only took 5 minutes to pop out the boot release and swap the camera over ;-)
  9. The most important thing is the Amundsen+ needs an RGB Low line (fixed graphic lines) camera, Check the size by measuring your boot lamp fittings holes, it's easy to lever out the lamps with a simple screwdriver protected by some felt (or the paint gets scratched). I went with the kit as I struggled to find details Ion the connection - until *after* I had it fitted here they are - good luck finding the plug too :-) This article is great: http://www.sciroccocentral.co.uk/roccopedia/index.php?title=How_To_Retro_Fit_The_Reversing_Camera download the pdf at the end, although its in German it's very helpful.
  10. DrPinball

    Yeti Reversing Camera

    Images showing needed VCDS changes needed to get an after market RGB camera to function with the Amundsen+ (RNS315) head unit.
  11. Pretty sure they are different - I looked for ever to try and find one that would fit Hetty, if you search eBay there are several adverts that lay out the full dimensions of the latches - I spent an evening with the measurements of mine and had no luck so fixed it as shown above - good luck running through the head lining, I took the sill cover route and followed the loom. By the way it the one mod I'm glad I did, it makes reversing an absolute doddle. The one thing I wish that I had not bought was the park assist - Wifezilla has never managed to do anything but loose her rag with it, still I suppose in that way it has my back :-)
  12. Hi All, as promised a quick update. It really is a case of 'so far so good' with a couple of caveats, late last year I left Hetty in the less than capable hands of Purple Parking at Heathrow while I worked abroad off a few days. On my return the rear passenger door was stoved in, a massive shallow dent about .75m square, effectively from the window to the trim. I will not bore you with their explanation but they eventually coughed up for a new door. Well here's the odd bit I asked my local body shop if I could rip the trim from the old door, I wanted to see how well it was attached (at least the thump had not dislodged it). I tore it off with a bit of heaving and there is no doubt that once started it could be peeled. Fascinated by my idiot effort the lads in the body shop wanted to chat about the removal and we ended up using the old door as a test piece. The result was that polyolefin primer is definitely the way to go, although Tiger Seal forms a good bond on plastic, if you prep the job with polyolefin as a primer (rough plastic with emery, spray on, leave for 20 minutes) and then Use Tiger Seal it forms a ridiculously strong bond. There is no doubt now in my mind that this is the way to go for anyone considering doing this retro fit and there is an old dented door covered in odd bits of plastic to prove it too. One final point, as we had a door with a perfect trim shaped lump of glue stuck on it from where the trim had been fixed and the piece of trim in question we did one more experiment to see if it was possible yo reattach trim without cleaning off the old glue, this may save anyone who has trim coming off a lot of cleaning up. We treated the trim with polyolefin primer, let it dry and then liberally brushed the old glue on the door with Locktite 406 superglue and stuck it back on, it's not cheap but by heck does it make for a simple job. As we had the door lying on the floor it made the job easier as all we did was spread the very thin and runny 406 over the existing glue and offer the trim up to the job. Even though the trim was bent by our earlier clumsy removal two of us easily held it on and happily slid it into place, thirty seconds later it was going nowhere. In fact after a day it was impossible to pull off, so if you do have trims and lose one it's an easy fix to remember, especially as the trim pieces are available to order separately. Happily the rest of the trims are stubbornly still in place despite the wet weather and 10k of driving around Norfolk :-)
  13. I connected the blue wire to the rear left reversing light cluster an easy job once you manage yo get the lights out. The red wire goes to the fuse box to a switched ignition fuse on the fused side, again very easy with a quick crimp connector once the box is taken out. There are two earth points under the carpet on the will by the accelerator, both have other things connected to them and the good news is they are held on a thread from the chassis by a nut. All you need to do is crimp a loop connector to the black and pop it under the nut and tighten. The good news is you need to take most of the panels off to run the video wire to the head so this becomes all very simple then, the hard parts of the jobs are teasing off all the panels I took a lot of pictures so I remembered the order and fit. Running the wire into the boot on the Yeti this is a pain and needs a flexible pull wire and patience. Cloth taping everything to stop rattles and of course making sure you can reprogram the head and everything works before you put the panels back. My advice is to check it all works in your car by popping the camera wire into the head and then running a temporary live and neutral yo the harness connections to make sure its all good before you start. Good luck!
  14. What would you like to see? Let me know and I'll snap it
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.