pavinjo

Yes it is the "more complicated" one. I will try to source it locally. No any oil leak is visible on the outside portion of the system, maybe some within the bellows. I should dismantle the slave from the bell house and try to figure out if any fluid within. Thanks.

No, can be bought separately from the pipe?

Upon renewing the master cylinder and bleeding the air from the system, the pedal really felt great, bitting really high as before tampering with the system. Next day it got worse but still driveable. So, both new cylinders. It seems its drawing some air somewhere. All started after renewing the slave cylinder. Not sure with this replacement parts are they of equal displacement as the original ones and does it really matter as if it is smaller maybe the piston is passing past the seals and some air is getting in the system, or some oil leaks somewhere and than on pedal release it sucks some air somewhere

Last night installed new clutch master cylinder. Did the filling of the system by 100ml by a syringe trough the bleeding nipple, closed the nipple. Pedal feels solid. Although bleeding air in this way is not the correct procedure as there is a possibility to shift dirt upstream the system and to the reservoir, anyway I took the risk. Will see tommorow if the feel changes as the slave nipple/nut is already spanner worn due excessive bleeding. Also funny feeling with this master as when pressing the pedal after about 1cm travel you can feel like a step or increased resistance, maybe it came faulty hmm

Tried my best to do the syringe oil inject at bleeding nipple method. Borrowed 1 soft black rubber tube from the vacuum system. Still same problem, pedal getting soft. Although it could be that i need a pressurized bleeder, due not avail at local stores i am going the route to renew the master cylinder. These days i should fit it and see if the problem persists. Upon fitting the new MC should i bleed air by pumping or with the syringe again?

Thank for the idea, i will give it a go probably for the weekend

Ok, i will leave it fully out and give it a try. First need to source a thinner tube. Thanks

In which position should i keep the pedal while doing this?

Wino thanks, that would be interesting but i dont like to waste others people time

Yes i do have one big syringe, any advice how to do it?

Keeping the clutch depressed over night did not help. As time passes the condition is getting worse so it must be drawing air somewhere

Noted, not sure if can be found in stores here. Any cheap recommendation? Few hours have passed from the last pumping and the bitting point went low again. Will keep depressed over night to see if any difference in the morning.

If the bleeding nipple is open, definitely there is movement of hyraulic pipe content towards out. Does anyone have a drawing of the master cylinder to see how it work i.e. when are the ports open, can air from beneath the piston travel upwards etc

Forgot to mention both cylinders are dry withouth any sign of leak.

Thanks guys, unfortunately not in posesion of the pressure bleeder. If air is coming out, should it stop after a while if i am stubborn? Also why does the pedal get firm after pumping it? I made a short ride after pumping only it and its not so bad. Will wait to see of it softens again and would like to know why does it happen? Thanks

Good day, Upon exchange of the slave clutch cilinder (due torn belows) i have f****d the bleeding process by having the oil reservoir empty (suction is at thr upper part of the reservoir). I guess plenty of air was introduced into the system and suspect maybe master cylinder is damaged by pumping it dry. Anyway, upon opening the bleeding nipple, connecting a tranparent hose, leaving the nipple open, by pumping the pedal bubles never stop to come out. Few times got the biting point at a decent height, it was ok for a week. Then tried to make it better and now again the biting point is very low. After bleeding the pedal is firm. But after some time it softens and i can hear like bubling noise in the master cylinder when pressing the pedal. Upon pumping the pedal it becomes firm again. Not sure is the master for exchange or i should do something different. Thanks

Is it possible you need to remove tension from the handbrake cable after change of shoes?

Never sorted it out. Just wanted to point out that you could try with VCDS and hoped someone might show how to do it correctly.

Many years ago when i got my Fabia, it came 2 FOBs but only 1 worked. Tried to sync it trough VCDS but could not do it. If i recall correctly the car did see the not working FOB but it would not memorise it. Probably malfunctioning FOB.

I had a really strong vibration due the car battery top plastic cover/fuse holder not sitting properly in its place. I could feel the vibration on the gas pedal, steering wheel... but only above 2200rpm (diesel)

Seems climatronic has few sensors more than the old manual mk1 AC. Also the blower speed is controlled by control unit, not the old resistor type control. You should read fault codes first by vcds and go from there

Ok, but don't disregard what above gents are saying, they are far more experienced than me, this is only my reasoning

Can you feel loss of power or RPM fluctuation when the compressor kicks in? If the inner fan is working intermitently I guess its something within the cabin.

Just checked, have it too

If its cooling, the problem could be with the fan control, blower speed resistor, fan EM..