mumpsim

You can just use an adapter. For example: https://thepihut.com/products/usb-c-to-usb-a-adapter?variant=41722082033859

Our Karoq has the DXDB engine and was registered in April 2023.

I agree with everything you say. If I were you, living where you do with plenty of hills, I'd be tempted to take the car up the 4-mile ascent at 1 in 75 from Tebay northwards to Shap Summit, or some similar long climb, working the engine as hard as possible, and see whether it makes any difference in the following weeks.

We nearly always buy V-Power. Someone else (on the T-Roc thread?) thinks switching from E10 to E5 will solve the cutting-out problem. I don't.

That may have been his point. I was addressing the much more prevalent complaints about cutting out, and complete failure to re-start, causing dangerous situations, as reported by many others.

And numerous other people in this thread and the T-Roc thread have posted about the problem on a manual. It happens to both.

Turning off the start-stop system does not get rid of this cutting out. Nor does the cutting-out happen only at low speed. However, I agree with Ootohere on one point: cutting-out can be avoided by keeping the revs up. But as it cuts out when one foot is on the clutch and the other often on the brake approaching a junction, keeping the revs up requires toeing and heeling. OK for me but not for my wife who is the main driver. Skoda documentation says that the start-stop system on a manual Karoq will operate when the car is stopped, the gear lever is in neutral, and the clutch pedal is released. But the engine cut-out that I and others experience meets none of these three conditions. It can happen when the car is moving, the car is not in neutral, and the clutch pedal is pressed down, not released. Therefore the cutting-out is not caused by the correct operation of the start-stop system as described by Skoda, though it might possibly be a malfunction related to that system. Ours is a manual car (2023 1.5 TSi Sportline). As coasting mode is provided only on the DSG, this is not a instance of coasting mode operation in my case. Some people have said that when the engine cuts out they can re-start it by dipping the clutch. That is not my experience, for the simple reason that it cuts out when the clutch is already dipped. As an aside, when I have reported this to a Skoda dealer (who of course said they were unaware of a problem) I have taken care to call it cutting out and avoid the word stalling, for two reasons: as soon as you say stalling they will dismiss it as driver error; and more fundamentally, a driver stalls a car when they raise the clutch pedal, not when they press it down, which is what happens to us. Our car never did this for the first 18 months of its life. Then it happened with increasing frequency over a couple of months in the later part of last year. Again that suggests a developing fault, not normal operation. It happens to both me and my wife. Our driving styles are very different, so driving style is not likely to be the cause either. There is an extensive thread on this from T-Roc owners, linked from page 1 of this thread. Thinking about this, it seemed likely that for whatever reason, the engine management system was allowing revs to drop too low. I first tried to resolve the problem by switching to Sport driving mode which is available on our Sportline. This alters the throttle mapping. Pinkpanther on this thread tried something similar by altering throttle mapping using Carista. For us, Sport mode helped. Cutting out became much less frequent but was not totally eliminated. My next guess was that one of the sensors that feeds data to the engine management system, or some other component related to idle speed (the idle control valve, as a total guess) had started to get sooted up after 18 months of use. My wife and I usually drive the car very gently. It was time to see if hard use would help by clearing something out. Over half an hour or so I worked the engine as hard as possible, so the indicated power output showed 110kW, the engine oil temperature reached 110 degrees, and the revs were at 5000 whenever possible. That was nearly three weeks ago and the cutting-out has not happened since, either in Sport or in Normal mode. Before that, it was happening every day or two. For now, things are much improved. Of course, the problem might re-appear tomorrow. We’ll see.

Steel wheels come with a thin coat of paint. They will probably begin to rust after one Aberdeen winter. If you spray-paint them with a rattle can before you fit the tyres, you'll likely get two winters out of them before they start to look tatty. It's no more than cosmetic and it may or may not concern you. If you are in it for the longer term and want them to stay rust-free, you'll need to have them powder-coated before the tyres go on. That adds to cost, of course. I speak from experience!

A cost-effective solution that gives excellent capabilities is to fit four of the very best all-season tyres and then sell the four summer tyres that the car came with. See https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre-Tests/Best-All-Season-Tyres-2024-2025.htm To get the best out of those reviews you should watch the Youtube version (for detailed commentary) and also look at the web page (for the charts and tables). The two complement each other.

If you are thiinking of having winter tyres on the front and the factory-fit summer tyres on the rear, you will end up with a dangerously unstable car.

Date handling failure at the OS level is not likely. But any software developer can still make a mess of date handling. I have seen many examples in 20 years as a software author.

I think that is quite likely. If so, software developers show once again they are unable to foresee and eliminate bugs caused by a change of date.

That happened here yesterday. 2023 Sportline 1.5

As reliability is your concern (it would be for me too in your situation), why not just buy the official Skoda UK extended warranty? On our cars the cost has often repaid itself several times over. Take the first car in Ootohere's post as an example, a white Karoq, SY67 YJS, with 71,431 miles. The cost today of the warranty for that car is £295. That is the comprehensive warranty; the version covering only named components is £250. Those prices would rise somewhat if you chose a different excess or intended to do more than 10,000 miles a year. https://insurewithskoda.co.uk/extended-warranty

Not quite. Colewood Automotive, the company behind Asda Tyres, is an intermediary but Camskill are stockholders on a large scale.

That is an outstandingly good all-season tyre. I realise you were just pointing to it as an example, but if anyone is thinking of buying via that link, allow me to mention the following: Camskill is an excellent, reliable supplier with fine customer service and very good pricing if all you want is the tyres and can fit them for next to no cost; but by the time you add delivery and find and pay for a local fitter, it's no longer cheap. For example, buying the Conti 215/55 R17 94v TL from Camskill: £125.20 incl. VAT x 4 = £500.80 + approx. £26 delivery + approx. £80 fitting = total approx. £606. Whereas the price at Asda Tyres, with the current discount code WINTER20, delivered to a local fitter of your choice, fitted by them, so you do not have the bother of receiving them at home and taking them to a fitter, nor do you have to deal with it if the delivery goes wrong somehow: total £538. I have no connection with Asda Tyres or Camskill except as a shopper.

Both of the tyres you have been offered would make a negligible difference to rolling circumference / speedo error. The Falken (assuming it's the Euroall Season AS10) is a tyre of mediocre ability and would be attractive only if the package were considerably cheaper than the CrossClimate deal you have been offered, whereas in fact you say it would cost more. It is no surprise that a good independent is much cheaper for wheels and tyres than a Skoda dealer, who are never competitive. But why is your independent not offering you the right size? Not that the 225/50x17 is in any way unsafe for the car, but why not stick to one of the Skoda-approved sizes? Is he perhaps trying to sell you something he happens to have available? Ask him if he will do you a deal on 215/55x17 CrossClimates. Even better, ask about any of the three all-season tyres that are newer designs than the ageing CrossClimate and have better abilities all round, particularly on cold wet roads (though not on snow, where the CrossClimate still wins -- but you won't care about that in Kent). See https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/Best-All-Season-Tyres-2024-2025.htm

Over the air it updates only part of the whole European map, which in your case would mean most or all of the UK. However, it is said that if you enter a far-off destination, such as Athens or Seville or Helsinki, and start route guidance, it will update all the mapping needed for the whole journey.

This page, dating from the Karoq's introduction in 2017, refers to its LTE module: https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/models/connect-yourself-with-the-karoq/

According to the workshop manual, there is one underneath the console between the front seats, another underneath the area between the spare wheel well and the rear seats, and a third in the rear bumper.

If M&S made tyres they would always be out of stock in one's size. (As are the SF3s now, and the tyre trade is not expecting more till the new year.)

Bear in mind that 3PMSF stands for 3 Peak Mountain Snow Flake -- it's not M&S (mud and snow). As you probably know, 3PMSF tyres are certified after snow testing, whereas the M&S label is not subject to any standard at all, and a manufacturer can put it on any tyre they wish. I don't think anyone is testing for mud ability per se of car road tyres, but I think that ability is probably similar to their tested performance in snow or ice traction. One or two of Benson's tests include ice. (One or two also include comments on performance degradation when part-worn, but he has so much material on his site I'd struggle to find it.) One of Michelin's most surprising claims in recent years has been that their tyres retain their performance all the way down to the UK legal limit of 1.6mm depth. They thus recommend ignoring the widespread advice to change tyres at 3mm or so, and say this sets them apart from other tyre manufacturers and makes Michelins better value than you might think from their high price. Can this really be true? I'm not aware it has been tested. A summer tyre that is near worn-out might well have full grip under heavy braking or cornering -- indeed it will have more grip in the dry the closer it gets to slick -- but it is hard to believe that also applies to AS or winter tyres on snow, where sipes and depth are everything.

Once the tyres have worn in and you have had time to get used to them, please let us know what you think of the SF3s.

In my view you made the best possible choice from what's currently available -- though they may not be available long: the SF3s are going out of stock fast in many sizes. Perhaps that's a result of them winning Jonathan Benson's test. Which tyre retailer did you use, by the way? As for selling the tyres you have taken off, I have succeeded several times in the last year by using Facebook Marketplace, though sometimes with a long wait for a buyer.

Does this help? it may be for the pre-facelift, but perhaps the fixings are still the same.