GlacierNR

Tommy C... I have had 3 or 4 sets of Goodyears - both regular and performance models. For me, they wore quickly, were crap in the wet and got lumpy fairly quickly. Oh, and all of them seem to have good rubber compound for the first 2 to 3k, then traction goes seriously downhill which is due to the (longer life, read: cheap) secondary rubber compound - even in the performance models. Firestone: this is more of personal objection due to safety. I had one set of which two, on two different occasions, with a well sorted car, blew up on me on a highway off ramp. They had great all round traction, but were manufactured with sidewall problems. (Then there's that whole Ford Explorer thing a couple years back that makes me wonder if they are still trying to use cheap materials). I am sure there are good and bad versions at all tire manufacturers. My recommendations come from personal experience (I have probably bought 25 to 30 sets of tires in the last 15 years.) For me, the major buying factors have been all weather traction/cornering/breaking, decent wear life (with rotations), at least an "H" rating, a decent brand safety record. Cheers! Nate

Hey, that sounds like a good idea. Thanks!

Does it happen all the time? Does your car have a charcoal cannister?

I concur with Sharkrider... Bridgestone Potenzas. I had a set on a Turbo Volvo and they were the best tires I've had. Next, I would go for Yokohamas, then Dunlops, then maybe Michelin, Kumho, etc... Just say no to Goodyear and Firestone.

You could try this: Skoda Parts - Skoda Spares or google skoda spares... BTW, what happened to your 1.2?

An LPG cylinder could have caused even more damage to the passengers as it is a really hard metal object between the damaged area and the occupants. re: LPG and the chunnel.... LPG is heavier than air, so if will tend to pool like water does in low areas before it evaporates. It can be both an asphyxiation and/or explosion hazard. Natural gas, on the other hand, is lighter than air....

Hello all, 06 Elegance Estate... I have really noisy door seals - the hotter it gets, the worse the interior of the car sounds. I have cleaned them well, cleaned the door jam itself, to no avail. I have tried silicone spray, which didn't work either. HELP me. It is getting hotter here again and the sound is driving me nuts. Anyone know what product or action helps? Thanks in advance, Nate

Looks like a lorry didn't stop soon enough... Hey, it sort of looks like a Roomster now... lol

I think you should take it to the dealers. It would have to rain buckets inside the car for the mats to be that damp as there is a good inch of underlay and sound deadening under the carpet itself.

Do a bit of a search on the Roomy forum, there were a few others who said that the seal leaked near the top of the front door frame.

Skoda with a Daihatsu emblem? Nevermind, it only vaguely resembles that...

If it was a vacuum cleaner, then that would be a good thing, right?

The new Fabia Rainbow. Order now by calling the number on your screen. The first 150 callers will receive three special cleaning attachments and an extension for those hard to reach places. The Fabia Rainbow, unbeatable when it comes to sucking.

This post was resurrected from the dead. Congratulations on the new Fabia. Is it a 1, 2 or 3?

that is pretty trick - those wheels make the biggest diff.

Welcome to Briskoda! I hope you enjoy your car. What car did you come from?

If your asking here and now, you will probably have trouble defending yourself if such a time was to come in the future.

He said it was a Roomy 2. Cheers, Nate

Everything but the grill (no pun intended) has to go. Otherwise its alright.

pretty sure its 60,000 kms - so ~40k miles.

AFAIK, that is still a Megane underneath, so I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole IMO.

The highest I've ever reached was 6.2l/100kms or ~45mpg all highway (in mountains) for 630kms. 1.4 16v.

They really are two very different cars designed for two significantly different purposes. Really, any Fabia is bought because it is a sensible, economical and somewhat reliable car. A CTR is made for track-days and such. Yes, a VRS can be made into a fairly hot hatch, but via significantly sacrificing its original qualities. Once again, the same old point: why spend more money that it would cost to buy a CTR (reliable as the day is long, specifically designed to race) to make a VRS (also a decent car with different pedigree) compete in only some areas? STOP THE MADNESS!!! :-)

Sweet, you can't complain about that can you? I'm happy for you.

I think that's a trip to the stealers or a major diy.