thomasaspin

Sounds like it has a massive boost leak , should be boosting over 1.0 bar of boost on stock map , check for hole in intercooler / smoke test it

When doing compression test put a little bit of oil in the cylinder before testing said cylinder if compression increases will be pistons/ rings if doesn’t increase could be head gasket as previously stated

Murdock man is absolutely correct , fuel pump is under rear seat and has a screw top on the lid of the fuel tank it’s a literal swap the full unit job with a few connectors so should be nice and easy for a competent hobbyist with YouTube as a guide

Anything is possible , I would get a bolt on solution though rather than using a diesel turbo

Sounds like the magnetic supercharger / water pump , but the timing chain is on that side aswell and can make a similar noise

Got same problem with my caddy van , absolutely inaccessible to do the job yourself Mine kept stalling when first started , I fixed it by taking egr pipe that connects to inlet manifold and cleaning that out then put loads of brake cleaner down the orifice on the block and cleaned that out

No I don’t think so I’m pretty sure you need Kess by Alienware

Ram air enclosed filter or RTMG full kit but the RTMG one is pricey

It’s connected directly to the turbo under the heat shield front of engine

It does have a dual mass flywheel

Rtmg are the best for maps in my opinion

Great news , I forgot to mention please stress to the company you decide to do the conversion to use new flywheel bolts as the old ones are a one time fit item , also on driveshafts make sure you use thread lock on the bolts I didn’t and they came undone when driving and caused some damage even when they were torqued to spec

Best of luck mate if you need any help you know where I am , I saw your question about driveshafts if worst comes to worst and you need some I got the shafts for my conversion off AUTODOC as it was miles cheaper than what vw/ Skoda wanted

I used a starter motor from a golf r , you could just use the start stop one , it will just be more robust than a normal starter motor as it will be rated to run more frequently it’s literally probably the same the ecu tells it when to crank etc it doesn’t have the capabilities to have an ecu inside it etc so I can’t see it being a problem, better to use what you already have than mess about with buying stuff you don’t need , it’s either the bolt holes or number of teeth on the park ring what determines what diff you need I can’t remember as I did the gearbox swap in 2021 , the oem open diff is riveted on the plate so to fit a aftermarket diff you need to drill out the rivets and use bolts instead

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