Doily

I've never changed any hydraulic fluid on any of the cars I've owned, some with 150k+ on the clock and 20 years old. Never had any issues apart from normal wear and tear on pads and shoes, etc. Have I been lucky?

The source of water in my boot was the rubber flappy "one way" air valves fitted on each side, near tail lights behind bumper. Google says it is a common problem. I managed to squirt sealant along the top edge of each valve without having to remove bumper. That stopped water collecting in boot. Yes. Remove the lights and the top edge of the rubber thingy is visible.

The source of water in my boot was the rubber flappy "one way" air valves fitted on each side, near tail lights behind bumper. Google says it is a common problem. I managed to squirt sealant along the top edge of each valve without having to remove bumper. That stopped water collecting in boot.

I guess so, to be sure.

Check that the amplification circuit in the base is getting a 12 volt supply up the coax lead from the radio.

Poundland do the best deal for canned air.

Ha ha. I'm sorry for the confusion UrbanPanzer. Thank you for reading my post. The fault is seen when the front wipers are working. It is an intermittent fault, i.e. sometimes the rears work as they should when the front wipers are on, and sometimes they don't operate at all when the front wipers are on. I've never had the rears switched on without the fronts being switched on (i.e. when it's raining). Mmmmm? That's a thought. Maybe I should try that when it's not raining and see what happens. Thanks UrbanPanzer. Cheers

Sometimes my rear wiper wont work at all. It happens only when it is raining, or to put it another way, only when my front wipers are working. Could it be the switch ? Thank you.

I've had 1.2 HTP Mk 1 and Mk 2 Fabs in my household for the past 8 years. They all had a 2 second rattle on cold start up. I sold the last with 160k on the clock and still going strong with original chain and tensioner. I've come to the conclusion it's normal for Fabs with chains.

Is the amplifier getting the required 12 volt (I think it's 12 volt) supply from the radio up the coax? It needs the power to work.

Wot's complicated about an AZQ? Definitely worth investigating the cause before risking a second hand engine. 130k miles does not necessarily mean knackered. Mine was going strong at 160k with no oil usage between services, before I sold the car. Good luck.

Why is there such a huge variation of Autodoc's price for the same part number between different brands? Are the products from the expensive brands the same spec/quality as the low cost brands? Are we being ripped off by what I believe the trade calls "brand value"?

How do you get rid of the old coolant/water mix? My Council Recycling Department wont take it unless it's in it's original packaging (?!?)?

Is it possible to adjust the sensitivity? In the 6 months I've owned my Mk 2 Fab the light has come on about 10 times. Checking the tyres I find that one or other of the tyres has gone down 1 or 2 psi to 30 or 31. It's easy to reset by pressing the button next to the handbrake, but still annoying. Thanks very much.

I want to purchase a tyre inflator but I'm wondering how much power can be safely drawn from the socket (connecting to the battery would be too complex for my wife).

Ooooohh. I didn't know that. Durr. That tool's definitely not there. Thanks guys. Great forum. Tool ordered off Fleabay. xx

I've just moved from a Mk 1 (160k and still going strong!) to a Mk 2 and first job was to inspect the brakes. The longest part of the work was removing the plastic caps from the bolt heads on the alloy wheels. I have the wire hook thingy tool that's stored with the jack. But it was sooooo fiddly. Is there a knack please? Should I be using a different tool?

They are rediculously cheap on Autodoc. £40 for an ABS sensor and rear hub and delivery, vs. other brands being £100 click and collect at ECP. Has anyone any experience of Ridex parts please? Thanks

My light comes and goes, randomly, but always when cornering, roundabouts, etc. I read code 00290 G46 (intermittent signal from left rear wheel). Do those symptoms suggest the wheel bearing is worn? Thanks.

I am thinking of replacing the bearing myself but wondering about the Gen 2 bearing removal/fitting tools that are available. Prices range from £200+ (Sealey, Laser, etc.), down to £80 (Mastertek and unbranded). Are the cheaper tools any good? With the price of labour etc., DIY with an £80 tool would make it more economic, but I wonder if they are made of weaker steel. Or is there a good chance that on my 2004 HTP Fabby, with 150k on the clock, no tool will work and I'd best ask a garage with a press to do the job? Thank you in advance for your advice.

I have a slight coolant weep from where the thermostat screws into the radiator. I'm wondering if I could try to nip it up a quarter of a turn or so, without risk of damage to anything. Thanks.

I'm about to do a service on my 2004 AZQ. I've had her for 7 years, doing 10k - 12k per year. She's done 145k. I've had her since 70k and overlooked changing the filter until now because Haynes does not mention it. Should I bother? Thanks very much.

Wino's counter holding tool is for the camshaft, not crankshaft.

That's a great fix PLO! But I feel sorry for the guy in the first vid. He spent hours and hours (presumably paid for by the customer) swapping modules and mucking around with a 'scope and back probing, only to discover a broken wire by the door hinge. He should join a Forum. Then he would learn like I have from the likes of TMB, Sep, Wino and many, many more that is the first place you look at.

I'm always intrigued by the idea of handbrake cables stretching over time. When I was at Tech (100s of years ago) I learnt steel was elastic up to a load point (i.e. it always went back to original length after load was released). So I've never understood why a cable should stretch over time. Could it be that cable problems are always caused by seizing somewhere in the mechanism or the wrong cable fitted?