Truls84

No need, constant 12v is the yellow wire in the harness and the red is the ignition sensing 12v (maaaybe other way around). No need to mess with that if you get a VW to ISO harness or VW to applicable radio harness.

The wring is standard on almost all radios, you just need a extra VW / VAG ISO harness, all car stereo dealers have them. Then its just plug and play.

Thank you so much for the reply, it got me really worried since i can also hear a subtle thump noise when i drive over potholes and the like. I pulled the suspension again and had someone that's a hobby mechanic to look over it. All is as it should and no play in anything we could see or feel. I guess the thump sound is just from the new struts being stiffer than the old ones that had close to 200km on them.

Reflectors are factory, and the dip beam light goes off when i engage high beams. I also seen a few of the Mercedes forum ppl do a rebuild and instal some highly acclaimed projector in their headlight, does require cutting and glue tho.

what if you loosen the left tierod-end one winding and tighten the right tierod-end with one winding? Also some camber should be possible if you loosen the 3 bolts that hold the top of the strut, there should be a degree of movement in and out.

Change it for a android based unit made to fit VAG cars, there are loads of them for around 400 bucks. E.G: Joying Newest 8 Inch Car Navigation System for VW Passat Skoda Seat Plug and Play (joyingauto.com) 8'' VW/Skoda/Seat Android 10 Hexa-core Car Stereo with CarPlay/Android Auto/DSP (PQS80UNV) | Xtrons Or go with a name brand that offers a drop in replacement thats double din, a modern headunit makes shame of the original ones.

I installed LED's in the standard reflector headlights, i been trough two periodicals without problems. Properly built LED's are brilliant=) Here link to the comparison i did when i installed them:

The bolt on the top of the strut changes height depending on if the car is on the ground or lifted of the wheels. Car on jacks: Car on the ground: The bolt protrudes approximately 1mm further up if the car is supporting itself. I even took the strut out and rebuilt it and checked all torqued bolts, all is as it should be as far as i can tell.

The Bilsteins are said to have internal bump-stops so i just butchered the ones i had to make the dustboots stay in place. Heres more pictures to compare the old and the new. The dustcaps do cover the entire piston when the weight is on the car. I also sprayed it down with lanolin(not the piston itself) just since i imagine that's a good thing.

So i just failed a periodic since the bearing on top of my right front shock was busted. I ordered a pair of new ones to replace them but then i saw that i also had a broken spring and a leaky shock! Look at that! No wonder the car was pulling to one side all the time, and both the bearing where just rust, no oil left in them and barely any metal to speak off. So after some back and forth, and reading up on what to order, huge thanks to Carlston and the information he brings, i ended up with Bilstein B6's and new stock springs. look at the thickness of these ******s! Since the bilsteins dont use those botom out thinges i had to adapt soem to get the dust caps to stay in place, i cut the top of em just so they fit on the tops of the bilsteins: New and old: Looks quite nice when its finnished=) Now i have a new periodic in one week, hope i installed it all the right way:S never done something like this before.

Anyone know a way to plug the holes in the roof where the roofrack is mounted? I really want to remove the racks but i cant leave those holes.

Finishing touches: Installed the proper DAB/FM/GPS antenna, it looks so much better than the original and miles better than the "tape-in-window" DAB. Added dynamat to the coupefilter housing thingie: Installed a mic to the roof-lining, i found out that there is a mic that can be placed in the coupelight after i done this mod:(

Been a while since last update, loads have happened both to the car and in life. Removed the headliner according to WillSmithy instructions, was easy enough to do alone. Rolled off the original sound/heat insulation and cleaned off the glue with ISO. Installed dynamat in the roof was also easy, almost no finicky cutting needed to make it fit: Reinstalled the original sound/heat dampening with some double sided tape made for carpentry. My landlord had a sheet of the same material in the garage and i helped myself to some so the roof got full coverage:P Im a thief:(

I get that one would get nervous riding a bike that low, thats why i went ham with reflective stuff:P And if its fast? It can be if i want it to be, but thats not legal so i dont:P

Converting is by far the best option if you have the ability to do so. Its even possible to get a refined bike if you just have the ability to weld new bracket instead of the normal crank. I made my own bike from a recumbent trike that was sold localy, i added a bafang mid drive kit with a huge battery(1500wh). I also added mirrors on both sides and a ton of reflective stuff. Stay safe everyone!

Fantastic work! Did the cables for the B6 seats also fit? I know of a scrapped octavia that i now want to see if i can use the front seats from, just as you used the passat seats in yours=)

The information you bring is notting more than impressive Carlston. Would the Eibach refere to the car with stock suspension or with sports suspension? It they referance the stock Fabia then the Pro kit would only lover the greenline by 10-15mm. In that case the ERL would lift the Greenline by 15-20mm. I also believe that the 5j is ment to use the Eibach Pro-Kit E10-79-006-04-22 and that the Eibach Pro-Kit E10-79-006-02-22 is ment for the 6y fabia, tho both should mechanically be interchangable. The E10-79-006-04-22 kit lovers front by 30mm and rear by 20mm.

I bet its you linkage. Its easy to do yourself if you can get under your car in a good way. Either with the car on a lift or with a grease pit. Its just as easy to change both gear linkages and the gear "fuses" at the same time to save you trouble in the future.

2.7 both front and rear with unloaded car. 2.7 front and 3.0 rear with load. I lowered the pressure to 2.2 front and back. Il test it for a few days and then go up to 2.4 and see if i can tel any difference. There is around 30kg of extra weight(seperator, snowchains, full size spare wheel and a dog) in the back of the car at all times so i guessed it would be better to run the back as if it was half loaded. It starts to get overwhelmingly tempting to go over everything under the car:P

Nice to know that the car is more special than just a badge on the back of it. Next time some of the BMW guys mention the M-sport package i can chime in and say that i also have sport suspension=) I been reading up on premium dampeners, a local company distributes Bilstein and i read good stuff about their B6(EDIT, guess it would be B8's for my car?). May also change from the Hakkapeliitta 8's to some studdless tyres. Think changing the bushings and mounts to new ones wil aid in ride comfort? I guess both the enginemounts, transmission mounts and most bushings are 13 years old now, the rubber may be getting worn. The car has dynamat everywhere except for the roof, im gonna do the roof next month. I got a tread under the Fabia Projects section with the progress.

Thank you so much for the detailed answers! The wheels are 185/65R14 Nokian Hakkapeliitta 8's. Originally i had 165/70R14's but i changed to get more contack patch on the winter tyres. The wheels should just be within legal limits when it comes to diameter increase. Im running hight pressure; ~3bar normally. Tyres are wearing evenly with it. heres the codes, i hope they are the right ones. I think the OEM numbers for the springs are : Front: 6Q0411105AK Rear: 6Q0511115M Would like to retain OEM ride height if possible.

Hello Is there any suspension mods anyone have done that resultet in increased comfort of the Fabia? I see alot of the lowering kits and coilovers have progressive springs on them, tho i dont really want lower ride height.

Yes i have reflector headlights. Its not stated that they wil work with reflectors, but the bulbs have that "cup" on them that a halogen has on its 2nd fillament, so if guessed they would work when i ordered them. From the pictures its pretty clear that they maintain OEM lightpatern. The only LED H4's i seen that has those "cup" thingies are the original Osram and Philips ones.

Here are some quick pictures of the new Philips LED H4. I have an old Philips bulb for comparison. The new one is much smaler and it doesnt need an external box. The new one does have a fan on it, and on one of the bulbs its so loud that you notice it if the engine is of. Here are comparison of low beams, Philips LED(right) and and Osram halogen 120%(left) Low beam with led on both sides: High beams, Philips LED on right side and Osram halogen 120% on left side: High beam both sides LED: Even tho i locked camera to same settings it stil makes the differense seem smaler than it is to the eye. Maybe it would have been better if i took the pictures outside instead of in the garage, but its narly weather so meh. I went to the parkinglot of the local supermarket and adjusted the low beams with the tape-on-wall trick and then headed out for a long drive. After one hour of driving with these ledbulbs i did not get flashed bo oncoming trafic. They light up alot more than the halogens i tried so far and im really happy with them.

I forgot to take pictures of the ledlights instaled on the car! I didnt do it the day i finnished the instalations since its so damn dark outside where i live during winter. They look crooked but they are actually straight, i guess its the shape of the grill or hood that makes it look this way. I also instaled a HEKO grille winter cover since i got one for just 25 euro, i tested it on a longer drive and the coolant never gets above 84 degrees C. It seems the heater works better now, the cabin seem to get hot faster. Dont look at the dogpoop thats around the shrub behind the car:P Also, dirty car be dirty, winter is always dirty. I stil have the roof and one rear wheelarch to cover with dynamat, but i have to wait until next month to be able to aford it. The money i had left this month i splurged on LED H4 and HB4 bulbs as there where a 15% discount on Philips Ultinon Pro9000 H4 and HB4 at he same time as one of my halogen bulbs blew:P I expect them to arrive next week and il take pictures to compare the halogen to the new leds, this time il borrow a better camera and im gonna remember to lock ISO and shutter.