Truls84

Get a used wheel of a scraped Fabia or Polo, i got a old studless winter tyre from the wreckers and just cleaned it up in the shower. Was 30 quid, wheel and tyre and all.

i wonder if the golf mkiv shifter would work in a fabia. If so one could get a shifter from the wreckers and then do a DAP or dieselgeek bushing kit on it to make it real nice.

its alot more work to rebuild! to get to the shifter internals you have to drop it and remove it from the car. I had mine out to change the linkages when they went. Not something that can be done without dropping at all.

i would too, think it would have fit on a estate?

you could try to engage the gears with the mechanism that on top of the gearbox itself. Leave the car in neutral so you can push it and feel if its in gear. if third engages then it is most likely the cable that's torn underneath or the rubber bushings on the cable connectors that just gone too soft.

Could just be the wires to the gear selector, i had to change one of mine, it was a cumbersome afternoon but easily done if you can get the car somewhat of the ground. It can also be worn bushings in the gear lever mechanism or by the gearbox, also easy to fix yourself.

Just posting incase someone else get the same problem. Changed to some new normal control arm bushings and the car is back to normal. Lesson for today, if you have a 3-cylinder do not change to cupra or poly bushes on the control arm or the engine mount unless you want a rough ride when the engine is under 2000rpm.

was your car a 3 cylinder?

I'm changing back to normal bushes and having an aligment done after that. If it wasn't for the NVH i would have kept them, i like some of the characteristics of them better. I just didn't imagine that the control arm bushes would transfer engine noise, i only seen warnings about harder engine mounts doing so.

So i changed fromt ARB bushings and control arm's with cupra bushings, now my 3-pot has horrid NVH when i pul from idle to ~1300rmp. It shakes the entire car, over 1300rpm it goes smooth again and rides like a charm. It also shakes like that if i engine brake under 1300rpm. What could be the culprit? I have not done an alignment yet either. Also the ARB bushings where ordered as 20mm and my ARB is 20mm, but the old bushings had a bigger internal diameter when i took em of, tho they did have 190.000km on them so maybe just worn down some?

What would be the difference between the 6R0407151D for the sport suspension and the ordinary 6R0407151 part? To me it looks like it has a stronger structure but the same geometry.

i have, make sure you have the correct connector style on that lugagge handle/camera combo first, if not you may make an adapter. Other than that you would need a stiff plastic rod or a plastic covered metal rod thats thin, its needed to pul the wires trough the channels in the luggage door, you wil maybe need lube to get the wires trough the rubber boot. other than that its basically just undoing the panels along a side of the car, i recommend the lower panels, and run the cable to the headunit. Skoda Workshop Manuals > Fabia Mk2 > Body > Body Work > Trim, noise insulation > Pillar and side trim panels > Removing and installing bottom trim panel of pillar A (workshop-manuals.com) Follow the guidelines how to remove trim.

use pure copper wire with silicon insulation for that stuff, should last longer than the aluminium wires with hard rubber shielding in that application.

i had that error from time to time, it went away after i removed the maf and ecu and checked the continuity between the wires. Wires where not bad but some corrosion on some pins, i cleaned it and gave it some dielectric grease. Been perfect since.

That number cant be correct, that's world record breaking numbers. I can get my greenline to do 67MPG https://www.fuelly.com/car/skoda/fabia/2008

Thanks for the help finding the part number @UrbanPanzer, i just changed the boot today but almighty was it a messy job, and i pray that i managed to tighten the clamps enough. Next time i'm ordering a complete axle instead:P

Im sorry for the late replies to the both of you, i sort of forgot to pay attention to this tread:P @DieselMonte @AnnoyingPentium Yes the sound dampening is worth it IMO. I would do it again if the car didn't have it already. Tho i would not go as hard as i have. Half of what i used wil probably be enough and most gain is on the larger flat panels, especially the floor and the bonnet. Thing is if you don't do enough it wont help much and to much is not gonna help more than enough would, sort of. As soon as the winter season is over i wil try to do a comparison if i can find someone with a similar car/engine combo as i have close by. I have a proper DB-meter and i can use my phone for spectrum analysis. And as a general update on the car, my front brakes are f***ed! Both sides have started to wear the pads crookedly, it seems that there's indents on the hanger where the pads have been resting on it. So it seems the pads wont move on one side and caliper only pushes the top of the pads inward. I'm tempted to just grind down the unevenness and hope for the best, but im also tempted to changes ALL THE PARTS inside the front wheel-wells xD

This is a quick and easy job for a shop to fix, its also a quick and easy job for you to do in your driveway if you have proper tools. Order a control arm with the bushings already in it like Carlston mentions, get the car lifted on both sides and supported on jacks, spray penetrant on the bolts and nuts and wait an hour. If the bolts are really stuck then use a impact to get them loose. Do not try to lift only one side at the time unless you want to risk loosening the rods for the anti roll bar at the same time. They will push the strut and make it cumbersome to work with.

curiously enough 95% of the rattle sound went away after i did and oil-. and oilfilter change yesterday. Cars are weird man!

So i nicked a small hole in my left CV joint boot, i been searching the parts catalogues and the workshop manuals but they return wildly different partnumbers. Its the car in my description and its a LHD model if that changes anything. Can anyone help me find the part that i need to just change the joint? Should i just let the shop do it? I Fixed the boot with some superglue as a temporary fix:P

I do seldom have a clunk in front and i cant find where it is, shop said car was in really good condition too. Maybe its time for me to change some of the now 14 year old bushes. thanks for the heads up! Anyone know what bushes can be changed with polyurethane ones without making the car harsh to drive?

no they are not, but the sound do seem to come from down somewhere in the front. its not a high pitch rattle, is a low pitch one. Could it be engine or transmission mounts?

all heatshields are ok and i changed the fasteners for them late last year when i changed the gear linkages. I think it must be something else than the heatshield.

The one under the car around the center channel?

Hello So i have what sounds like some panels rattling between 1400rpm and 1800rpm. Is this something people know the cause of? Its a 1.4TDI(PD80) with ~190k km on it. Its been like this for almost two years.