Purpletom

Try eBay, took me 2 mins to find this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266632758464?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pV0idlR-TOO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_BjIvh5xQJC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I’ve no idea what all the differences are, but it looks externally the same as the one that I’ve got. Should be fine 👍🏻

I was recommended to go for the ‘basic’ one but noticed the ‘high’ one so spent the extra and found it didn’t work. That’s why I linked to the basic one. I paid £175 for the airbag.

It didn’t work for me unfortunately. The heated steering wheel button is still non functional. It is worth keeping an eye on eBay for the wheels - they do come up - I paid £120 for mine. I think the trims are removed because of the value in selling second hand.

I sold the round wheel on eBay, only about a month ago. With the connectors for the terminals, I cheated and bought an MQB fusebox from a breaker for a tenner that had a good chunk of the car harness with it. Had plenty of connectors on it as well as a load of fuses and relays. Plus I used it to work out where I was going to wire the HSW in.

Was that a manual steering wheel or DSG? I hunted high and low for a manual flat bottomed mk3 wheel and couldn’t find one or a part number for one anywhere.

Nope, just the button to switch on the heat and the ACC button. The rest work fine but you do need that LIN adaptor otherwise the buttons on the right don’t function properly through the menus on the dash. It’s very subjective but I tried the round mk3 wheel and wasn’t a big fan, especially after the retrim as it ended up a bit too thick for my liking. The other option for you would be to find a DSG wheel then remove the DSG paddles and make some sort of cover for where they mount. I wondered about doing that and then 3D printing some covers that clip into place. Quite a few options really, but none of it is 100% straightforward.

Yes, forgot that. The heating button on the wheel does not work but I just link mine to the seat heating and also have it switching on automatically when the outside temp is 4 degrees or below. I don’t have adaptive cruise but the lane assist button works as it should 👍🏻

The steering wheel I used - manual, red stitching, heated - was: 5E3 959 542 G The airbag was: 5E3 880 201 S A link to the LIN convertor I used: LIN Adaptor Here it is fitted: Thanks

I’ve now fitted a mk4 vRS wheel to mine. There is no extra coding required but you will need a LIN convertor to make the buttons work properly - about £200. Personally I think it’s a really nice wheel and a nice change from the mk3 wheel BUT it isn’t much cheaper once you factor in the airbag and LIN convertor.

1. 549D is working fine on my 2017 FL 245 and has done since I fitted it and wrote the thread last year. 2. If the part number is matching then it should be fine. 3. Nope, just fit as per the guide. 4. Manual or DSG? If manual, then no, they don’t exist as far as I can tell, certainly not in mk3 style anyway. Flat bottomed heated DSG wheels do, but they’re few and far between. Mk4 wheels are a straight fit but require extra expense on a LIN convertor to get them working properly.

I said the last update was the final one, but just to follow on briefly. I towed for the first time with the Octavia the other day - only a light motorbike trailer but the nose weight was about 40kg. The car wasn’t down by its arse at all, even with a toolbox and a few other bits in the back. Very pleased 👍🏻 Tom

So they basically want you to splice into a terminal 30 wire behind the fuse box somewhere with the short bit of wire and then utilise fuse position 2 because they assume that is a completely empty fuse position. I did it differently where I just found an empty terminal 30 bus on the fuse box and tapped into that. It won’t be an airbag cable - it’ll be for something else - probably CAN or LIN related. Once you get the airbag off (if you haven’t already) you’ll see that all connections go through the big yellow plug.

Yes, and that’s how I did it with the loom I built. It is tight but it’s easy enough to unclip the fuse box and pull it away from the bulkhead a bit. A tip to help find the right slot for the feed wire is to push a cable tie/zip tie through from the front of the fuse box in the correct fuse slot then use that to help you push the feed wire into place.

It does make sense. If you look at an MQB fusebox (I bought one from a breaker just to get an idea of how they work) you’ll see they work in essentially the same way as even the CE2 fusebox on earliere VAG stuff (mk2/3 Golf, Corrado etc) in that they have several large common feeds going into them - those feeds being permanent live and ignition live - and then different fuse terminals receive whatever power is required. To answer your question directly - I used an ignition live feed (terminal 30) with a 10A fuse. I didn’t use a fusetap, I don’t really like using them for anything other than a semi-permanent consumer like a dashcam.