mrburdon123

I wouldn't know where to look to find if a new engine had been fitted. I've not noticed anything in the service book, and its all stamped up. After your new engine, did they say what the problem was in causing the oily spark plug? The pull of the car still seams reasonable. It doesn't give the buzz putting my foot down used to but I guessed that was just me getting used to it. Would there be any obvious signs/tests to find out if there was something up?

Yes, you've got the right plug in mind. The engines done 22300miles (I picked it up on 19550ish) The plug didn't look to be burning up but can't understand why oil would be there at all?

Carried out a service at the weekend, when changing the spark plugs, I noticed oil on only one of the plugs (second from the left) and the rest looked relatively ok. The oil wasn't in the electrode but on the treads above. Any ideas?

Yep

Desperate times! It was all i had when needing to get a 5m set of ladders home before the shop shut! The ladders decided to have pee on the ride back:(

Have a few updates. Got rid of the horrid Dunlop sp sport maxx tyres and now running on Pirelli p zero neros, not made any noticeable difference in reducing the road noise but gives a far less crashy ride. I have also found that my car doesn't have undercar noise insulation trims, it seems some had the fitted and others dont......so I've ordered the large panels as shown in the below link. I now believe that most of the tyre noise is being transferred from the floor pan and into the cabin so filling these trays with insulation and having this squashed to the underside should make a huge improvement. http://www.partsbase.org/skoda/fabia-fab-eu-2011-82510-noise-insulation-underbody-trim/

Found the part numbers for the undercar trim, would there be a difference between the L/H and R/H drive cars? http://www.partsbase.org/skoda/fabia-fab-eu-2010-82510-noise-insulation-underbody-trim/

I just thought that as there is no changes to the SC other than the fact SC rpm is higher across the rev range (due to a smaller pulley) the requested boost pressure will be achieved earlier, meaning the turbo will be utilized from lower rpms. I make this assumption guessing that the ecu controls the positioning the regulating flap based on pressures and not SC rpm. Referencing the document linked in sk4gw's post and page 13, basically, reducing the rpm value of the green to blue transitions.

It was just a passing thought, I won't be trying it but thanks for your comments.

Have read u to page 16........why can't it be done then? Will be doing nothing to drastic the the engine, changing the pulley seemed like possible simple change.

The torque would still be less than a diesel.....the boost pressure would remain as requested by the ecu so venting the boost would happen earlier in the rev range so when the turbo kicks in, the boost would be as it normally would be?

Appologies, I ment a 15‰ decrease in diameter. Surely if the SC builds boost quicker, when the map sensor reads the required pressure, the DV valve will just direct the excess pressure back to the intake, the turbo then kicks in at its specified rpm and all is normal again? And as this is a mechanical change, remaps running higher boost levels would benefit from the extra pressure the SC can generate for a given rpm as the SC rpm is a direct ratio to the crankshaft speed? So the only benefit this would give to a std vrs would be faster boosting time at the bottom end? Forgive me if I have no idea what I'm on about.

A mate of mine said he was getting a larger supercharger pulley for his Mini Cooper S - something like a 15‰ diameter increase. Does anyone know if this would possible for a VRS? If it's possible a remap would be required too I assume?

^this^

Here's a very good write up for the door cards. The principal will be the same for the rest of the car. http://www.fiatforum.com/500-guides/204444-500-sound-insulation-doors.html

Here's a good link. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/soundproofing-car.htm Had a go this weekend of adding soundproofing the the drivers side rear wheel arch as I noticed when closed the boot there was a rattle (turned out to the the fuel tank breather pipe resting on the arch liner). It was an easy job to do, just got the other 3 wheels to go. Also, have just decided to revisit the soundproofing on the floor pan of the car. Going to take the whole carpet up this time and the original soundproofing then glue a layer of 3mm Ali foil backed matting then refit the rest of the soundproofing. I'll post some more pics up of this.

Looking at the link in zouches post, this looks the stuff -not cheep mind. This is for .54sqm, I used nearly 8sqm! http://www.deadening.co.uk/products/dodo-sound-stopper-mlv Wonder what the difference would be if I used that much of this stuff (apart from being broke!)

Just been out for a spin tonight, found a really smooth road and reckon most of the noise left is still coming from the rear of the car. Bringing this topic back up has given me itchy fingers to play with the motor again. Been looking at puddle lights on other threads so pulling the interior apart and adding more sound proofing will give me a good excuse to fit them too! Would like to hear how how much of a difference the propper stuff makes to your car so keep posting up your experiences. Can you add pictures of how you do it so people have a go to place for this topic. CHEERS

Imo I guess it's a question of what you want to achieve. You have 8 sheets so if soundproofing is what you want then full coverage of both surface is what I think you'd need and I guess doing It that way you will only have enough to do 2 doors - 4 sheets per door. If vibration is the Issue, changing the frequency of a panel could be done by adding the sheet to the largest flat area of the card and door, so 2 sheets per door.....

Almost certainly. There are a few wires, connections, cables between the door and door card which could be the source of your rattle. There's also a rubber plug at the bottom of the door which sits against the chassis, maybe unscrew that a little so it pushes against the door a bit more...

Just a single sheet of fabric sound mat. The engines quite enough as standard imo.

The door cards are easy to remove/refit. For a front door Remove the pull handle cover, exposes 2 T30 screws. 2 T10 screws at the bottom of the door. The door card is now only held in by plastic push fittings so from the bottom of the door start pulling out, working your way to the top. Then pull the whole door card upwards to remove. Now your can release the connections for the windows controls, tweeter speaker and door pull handle. The door pull handle is the same connection as on pushbike V Breaks. Then your done. Before refitting check the the plastic push fittings haven't been pulled from the door card and been left in the door It will take about 10 mins per door card. Adding sound proofing does eliminate any rattles in the door. A knuckle wrap test between a soundproofed and unsoundproofed door card shows the difference it makes.

Haven't read the manual in that much detail.....guess it's common knowledge then.

Found by accident last night that if the unlock button is pressed and held, it winds the window down. If lock button is pressed and held it does the window up! Neat little feature.