promethian

I have a FIFO X3 Flac player line out connected via a removable jack, which is wired permanently ,directly into the AUX, at the back of my Bolero, running upgraded speakers. The dynamic range of the Bolero Amp is surprisingly good. The FIFO sits in a holder just to the left of steering wheel. Quality is awesome...

Another like for this one. I had exactly the same fault, in exactly the same place with the Brown wire.

I got my Chinese forge knock off kit for about £70 from here... just noticed price is even cheaper now. It was very well made and fitting it was easy. I actually bought it last year but only recently had the time to fit it. shiny valves... who knows?.... as long as they aren't junked up like some examples I've seen then I will be happy. Sorry haven't got a compression gauge (I had one years ago... but didn't really use it much. and it would never have fitted down the neck of the EA888 barrel anyway !) .... If you can wait till Sept I will get them to do a set of readings for me. Oh edit... I remember reading somewhere on here that apparently you would be better off using 502.00 5w40 as its not long life (which is 504.00 5w30), and more vicious and thus less oil consumption. Obviously you would need to go onto shorter time schedule for oil changes.

Oh yea of little faith lol.. I was using about a litre every 3-4k miles so quite a low oil consumption figure. If you want to know how much ends up in the catch can then search through Brad18t posts.... but to save you doing it... from Brads own words " 1) I fitted a Forge Catch Can. The amount of rubbish this collects every 2000km is amazing. 200ml of oily gunk that stays out of the inlet. " I don't know much about the snakeoil Hydrogen clean... I just had a little look at the blurb and wasn't impressed... that def wouldn't clean your intake valves. This method however includes degreaser/water(steam)and a mineral spirit which wash over the inlet valves before going into the combustion chamber. As the engine is DI then fuel doesn't touch this area, so the cleaning products in fuels are wasted. I will not be able to endoscope the valves till sept when my mech has the car... I'll get him to take a few shots then. All I can say is the cleaning HAS removed any hesitation that was evident before I cleaned it, so in my opinion the effort was definitely worthwhile. As you also have a 1.8tsi engine, I would recommend you researching Brad's posts as he definitely knows his stuff as far as the EA888 engine goes.

OK so no-one got back to me so went ahead anyway. The Catch can and Africa plate were installed without any major issue. I now have a plate with a working PCV valve if any one needs one. I also carried out the inlet valve cleaning similar to the above video. I used a garden spayer from LIDL (£8.99) which provided an excellent mist from the brass spray head. I created a rubber seal behind the spray head to fit tight to the aperture port. The solution I injected was approx 2 litres of 50% water, 25%Gunk ultra, and 25% white spirit. I injected the solution into the air temp sensor aperture. I set revs at 4000 rpm and this died down to 2500 rpm when the solution was injected along with quite a few coughs and farts. The exhaust turned smokey white when the solution was passed through then a smokey mist.. then cleared as the solution run out. The injection process took about 7 minutes from start to finish. Results.... Absolutely brilliant. I had a small hesitation at low revs pulling away and that has now disappeared completely. The engine runs as sweet as a pea, no farts or hesitations, just smooth powerful acceleration all the way to the top end. By the way I just luuurrvve the way this 1.8 Tsi engine with a bluefin map powers up all the way to the 5k+ revs.... what a sleeper of a car I would recommend this process to anyone who wants to keep their inlet valves/ chambers clean on a Tsi engine. I would like to thank brad18t/ for all the information and process involved... respect

The Valve stems and the back of the valves are known to gunk up badly on these engines due to the oil breather system re circulation, which is the main reason for installing a catch can, and Afrika plate. I didn't intend on taking the head off, rather gaining access via removing the inlet manifold, which is a long process, but no where near as excruciating as removing the Head. I wondered if anyone had any experiences with an engine of this vintage as to whether the process would be necessary? Regarding the Degreasing agent I intend to carry a cleaning operation similar to this procedure....

just bumping this as I am going to be working on car as from Wednesday if anyone has any answers

Hi, Longtime no post, been busy on other issues. Anyway, I have a 2010 FL L&K 1.8TSI. The car has done 73k miles but the engine was replaced at 43k, before I owned it. So the engine itself has only done 30k miles. (Previous engine had a timing chain failure and was replaced by a new EA888 unit in Jan 2014.) I have owned the car for nearly a year and have done approx 7k in that time. So I have finally found the time to fit a catch can and Africa plate to the engine. I have a couple of questions. !st Question. Seeing as the Engine is now approx 3 years old and has done 30k miles, should I also carry out a Decoke of the inlet valve area's at the same time? I haven't had any errors or codes and wonder if it would be worth my while doing it? 2nd question. I intend to carry out regular Manifold/Valve cleaning by injecting a mixture of water/degreaser/mineral spirits via the air-temp-sens aperture. Can anyone recommend a make of degreaser (UK based) to use? Cheers

I think reviving this thread is doing nothing but further harm to Horton's reputation. If somebody at Hortons thought they could fix an old customer's complaint by bigging them up by reviving this thread, then they have made the situation even worse. If its nothing to do with a Hortons employee, then same applies. All they have done is focus current attention on an old complaint.... Fail

Yep ..Doh. I had sifted through and found that entry. Thankyou

Thanks... 43 pages of thread to sift through :(

Update on this topic. The Garage that carried out the work has offered to update my Service book with workshop entries including all the details, if I post it in to them. They also said that there are no serial numbers to change on these engines and no need to inform DVLA?????? DVLA require a form V888 to be filled in and posted to them for information on a vehicle, even if you own it, with a £5 charge. Skoda UK deny holding any repair information like this on their database as its all held with the relevant dealer. Is this all true, or am I being bull******* too?

100% Agree I still would like someone to tell me where I can find the serial number on this engine so I can visually check it out as well. Anyone?

You are correct re the V5 document and thats the reason I was asking where I could find the engine serial number. I asked today for the warranty invoice to be emailed to me. The Service receptionist said they couldnt do it for data protection reasons. I asked them to blank any sensitive personal data out then email me it. They said they would ring back but never did. I'll try again tomorrow.

I have a 2010 FL 1.8 TSI L&K Octavia that I bought in April this year, lovely car, pleased as punch. I found out from this forum the problems with timing chain tension-er problems that afflict these engines and did some digging. Skoda UK told me in April, the timing chain tension had been fixed in Jan 2014. I have now found out that is not exactly the case. ( But not necessarily in a bad way.) The fault reported on Skoda UK database, and fixed was that of a faulty timing chain issue, but the issue was catastrophic failure and they actually changed the complete engine. There was no report and I was given no indication that the engine had been changed. The service manual doesn't have a page for warranty (or other) repairs. I also have a much newer engine in my car than I thought I had, one that has done 29k instead of the 72k the car has done. I actually found out by grilling the Skoda garage who did the work. The whole engine has 10/13 date codes all over it, which alerted me to something other than just a straight forward tensioner replacement. Would this replacement engine be fitted with the replacement upgraded tensioners? ( I am of the mind that it would but can't say for sure.) I am not overly concerned at the moment as it sounds tiptop with no rattles or noises at all, but if anyone has a definitive answer I would like to know. Oh an Edit as I had an afterthought.... Where can I find the serial number for the engine? (Its a 1.8 TSI CDAA)

Just a query on this Subject. I have a 2010 FL 1.8 TSI L&K Octavia that I bought in April this year. It had a new replacement engine fitted in Jan 2014. The whole engine has 10/13 date codes all over it. Would this replacement engine be fitted with the replacement tensioners? I am not overly concerned at the moment as it sounds tiptop with no rattles or noises at all. Thanks for the replies

I have one too. I must be lucky as all is fine and my chain tensioner mod has been done too. I would have thought an engine swap is a better idea if you can afford it. Overhauling the engine could cost almost as much as a recon engine.

Hard to tell from the clip, but mine is not what I would call noisy. It sounds clicky and I've heard that noise on other clips with noisy tensioners. I notice you were putting phone down the side of engine where timing chain is located. I have a 60 reg L&K with 70k on it, but the timing chain tensioner was changed in 2014. I would be wary of any noisy engine which has not had the tensioners changed.

Cheers Langers2k It seems a waste to shunt the LED's with a resistor and waste 21W of power, so the option of taking a drive seems like a good idea . I live in Kings Lynn area so not sure how far you are away.

I want to replace my 'yellow' bulbs with LEDs. Car is 2010 Octavia L&K 1.8tsi facelift model. The bulbs are in the fog light housing and are P21W. I have looked on ebay and there seem to be lots of LED's of this type, but when I pull down the vehicle selector on the item page it says does not fit my vehicle???? ( I have pulled out bulb and checked so its def a P21W) Also will the CREE Canbus type give me errors without load resistors ????? (They all claim error free but I'm sceptical) If anyone can post a link to ones I need without resistors please. Thanks for help in advance

Just a question.... is your 2010 octavia a facelift version... if so its the same as mine and this is exactly the same information I am after.

I Just rang Skoda UK and found out that the timing chain tensioner replacement work was done in 2014 under warranty That explains all the 2013 parts fitted to the car. whoop whoop I will have a go at the times you stated in your post and use them as a comparison and post them back here when I've done them.

I Just rang Skoda UK and found out that the timing chain tensioner replacement work was done in 2014 under warranty That explains all the 2013 parts fitted to the car. whoop whoop

Gordon Bennett you really know your stuff...!!! :clap: ...I hope you stay around in case I need to download(sic) any more info from you regards this engine. I had the bluefinn map applied today. So far my thoughts are :- .... although its just a generic code, it transforms to make the 1.8 TSI into a fine beast without applying any severe stresses to the engine. Love the way it pulls now from low revs now .... Regards the actual increase in power and torque figures, who cares, its how it drives on the road that is more important.

Sorry I meant the ribbed plastic intake manifold housing at the front of the engine. I'm considering a bluefin remap. I understand you 've had on too Brad. What are results like? From what I can make out from the maps, the torque increases greatly between 2-3000 rpm, and that should really improve the driveability of the car.