amstrange1

John - I've PM'd you my email address.

I'm just north of the tip of the Cotswolds - so about 75 miles up the Fosse Way from Chippenham. Are you ever up this way?

How old are the tyres please - are they still pliable without cracking? Would you consider shipping them?

There wasn't any noticeable stretch, just slight wear to chain and sprockets. I think our issue was worn tensioner though, rather than chain. The only new part number (apart from fixing bolts) was the tensioner and the old part was obviously slacker than the new one. I used the Nielson timing kit - it looked a bit better than some of the unbranded Chinese specials, and was fit for purpose. Not amazing quality, but good enough if you don't mind cleaning it up a bit. Other observations - you can do the chain without dropping the sump, but I'd take the sump off. Engine mount needs to come out too, but you can support the engine easily enough whilst you do this. The generic VW water pump pulley tool needs 1mm boring out of the bolt holes to get it to fit on the 1.2TSI. I also got the proper cam and crank pulley wrenches too - about £50 delivered for the pair proved to be a sound investment. The generic version of the VAG sealant for the lower timing chain cover is Elring Dirko. Loctite 5970 for the upper cover. I use Dirko on both as the tube was open and it's a higher temp spec IIRC than the Loctite stuff. The car rewarded me with the other 1.2TSI common fault of no.3 HT lead failure, which worked out okay as it turned out that (despite full Skoda service history to date) it'd never had the plugs changed (or the airfilter) - so I did them at the same time. Now it's running sweetly and quietly again.

I think it'd be possible, but you'd have to be careful to avoid moving cam or crank whilst the tensioner is out. If you're not sure, the timing kit is under £15 delivered online, and simple to use. In case the info helps others: I thought we'd be without worry of these dreaded timing chain issues, given that our 1.2TSI 105PS Fabia is a 2014 model - and therefore had the new type chain; guides and sprockets from the factory. However, over the last 6 months the dreaded cold-start rattle developed. The car's got full Skoda service history, but is out of warranty. 53k miles on the clock. I've just bought and fitted a new chain and tensioner kit (and water pump - but that's another 1.2TSI familiar story!). The chain was the same type and style as the original, as were the sprockets - the tensioner was now suffix 'F' on the part number compared to 'D' on the original. Other key part numbers were the same, although the new guides were clearly from a different batch/source. The spring in the new tensioner was significantly stiffer than the part I removed, and in its uncompressed state was approx 1mm longer than the original. Whether this is down to wear and tear, part revisions, or both - I can't comment. The conclusion I'd draw from this though, is that for those with the rattle on later cars, that a tensioner-only replacement is a cheap initial first step worth a punt.

I bought a used one on eBay. Had to check the pics to see that it had a non-zero MAC address on the label (as that indicates it has built-in bluetooth), and you need to check that they come with the security code too - quite a few don't.

Arrived and installed - followed the guide on here to make sure I had one with a MAC address written on the side for built-in bluetooth. Working like a charm at a fraction of the price of a Columbus. Used a generic sat nav aerial and genuine VW/Skoda microphone to get it all working. Thanks for the advice!

I have a 2011 vintage Amundsen+ bought secondhand, so haven't got the original SD card. Any other way I can find out please?

Still waiting on an Amundsen+ to arrive!

How do I know which type I need please?

Our 2014 Fabia has a Swing stereo, but no steering wheel controls or Maxidot. I'd like to add decent handsfree 'phone function, but it seems like the aftermarket 'phone kits don't work with the late Fabia 2 versions of the Swing radio. I could add a VAG bluetooth module of some description, but then I'd not have 'phonebook access through the Swing unit - is my understanding correct? Therefore I'm looking at the Chinese Android headunits - what can people recommend please?

Now sold.

Whoops! Now added.

18" x 8J ET32 wheels made by WSP in Italy - 5x112 PCD and 66mm centre bore. Fit Audi S5/A5 and B8 onwards A4/S4 I believe, will fit other VWs/Audis etc. with the same PCD but you might need some 57mm to 66mm spigot rings (£5 on eBay). Come with genuine Audi centre caps. (The wheels are £615 new without the caps!). £200ono. Collection from South Warwickshire.

Now sold! :(

Depends on how you drive it and what speed you're doing. The previous owner claimed to have seen mid-40s to the gallon on long motorway runs in his build thread, but I have never had the patience to try - it's not a 140PS diesel after all! On my commute of 50-60mph roads, some 30 limits and about 4 miles of town driving I get 30-35mpg depending on how many people I overtake and how much time I spend stuck in traffic. In my last job I used to get about 26-28mpg as it was all clear 60mph B-roads, so you could press on a bit!

I'm based near Southam in Warwickshire.

2010 Skoda Yeti 1.8TSI Elegance 4x4 by Shark Performance 323bhp sleeper family wagon 61,000 miles 2 owners FSH £9500 Beti is a highly-spec'd Yeti, lovingly modified by her first owner with Shark Performance (the first owner's build thread is here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/253927-beti-the-k04-yeti/). I've finished off some of the previous owner's modifications (rear brakes, uprated front pads, clutch delay valve, new-style Skoda badges) and used her as my amusing daily-driver and main family transport. As the rear seats are removable individually, and can also slide forward, Beti's proved to be quite practical with two kids and all their clutter! There's a detailed specification list below, though I've probably missed something - so just ask! Engine Spec/Modifications 1.8TSI engine fed on Shell Nitro Superunleaded (mapped on this fuel) K04-064 turbo conversion by Shark Performance Milltek 3" downpipe with sports catalyst Milltek mid-silencer Standard Yeti exhaust backboxes and tailpipes, so it looks and sounds standard! Audi S3 intercooler ITG/VW motorsport airfilter Audi R8 coil packs Remapped by Shark Performance 323bhp and 425Nm on Shark's rolling road: Transmission Spec/Modifications Haldex 4x4 system Standard 6-speed manual Sachs organic-lined clutch friction plate Sachs uprated pressure plate (higher clamping pressure) Clutch kit retains the standard dual-mass flywheel, so no nasty rattling from a single-mass conversion! Clutch-delay/damper valve has been removed to improve pedal feel (still have it if you wanted to put it back in!) Chassis Spec/Modifications Bilstein B6 dampers Eibach lowering springs Polybushes all round Has the metal sumpguard/skid plate as standard Standard 17" Spitzberg alloys and new Skoda logo centre caps (one with minor kerbing - see pics) Pirelli P-Zero tyres (all four good tread) Rear right wheel: Front right wheel: Front left wheel: Rear left wheel: Brakes Spec/Modifications Porsche 986 4-pots on the front (NQSBBK) with 312mm discs Ferrodo DS2500 pads on front Audi S3 rear calipers with 310mm discs Brembo pads on rear HEL steel lines ATE Typ200 fluid (the successor to Superblue) Pic of the front Porsche calipers when it was on the Annapurna wheels: Rear calipers: Interior Spec Columbus Satnav with bluetooth handsfree, build-in HDD storage, DVD player, SD card reader etc. 12-speaker premium sound system Panoramic roof (New replacement roof cassette and motor replaced last year!) Park assist (parallel parks for you - if you're patient enough...) Front and rear parking sensors Heated front seats ESP Tyre pressure monitor Climate control View through the roof: Toys: Satnav etc: It's always difficult to price a modified car, but this isn't the most expensive 1.8TSI Elegance 4x4 for sale at the moment - nor is it the cheapest. I've priced it a good few grand cheaper than an equivalent age Golf R or Audi S3, and it's got more power than they have! Additional bits If you pay the asking price I'll throw the following in: Skoda roof cross-bars (for carrying a roofbox) Annapurna 17" wheels (black and silver variant) with tyres (two Michellin with okay tread, two Barum which are down to about 2.5mm from memory) Brand new set of Continental tyres to go on the above (the Annapurnas were the car's summer wheels, I was going to put winter rubber on the Spitzbergs - but haven't worn the tyres on them out yet!) Spare wheel kit Rubber interior mats Rubber boot mat Spare MAF & MAP sensors, piston-type diverter valve, PCV and N75 valve - all common TSI failures and replaced as preventative maintenance.

Interested in the headunit - which model is it please? And does it come with the GPS antenna; microphone and aerial adaptor cables etc?

Does anyone know what bits you need to order to add bluetooth to a Fabia II? It's got the Swing headunit I think if that makes any difference...

Sent you a PM.

What's the bodywork like? Are all the turbo issues fixed now? Thanks!

To be fair to them, I'd spent at least that time playing with it trying to see what was broken myself. It needs two people though really - one of you to play with the button whilst the other prods and pokes the mechanism, so I'd assume that some of those 2 hours labour are because there were two techs on the car. Anyway, just annoyed that it's failed - at nearly 5 years old and with 48k on the clock it's a premature failure as far as I'm concerned. Anyone know of a DIY cassette repair?

Near-side runner is broken... Apparently this necessitates a new roof cassette, priced at £1313 fitted. It's 3.5 hours labour to fit, so a majority of the cost is the part. Going to get a quote using my TPS account, fingers crossed trade on the part is more palatable! In fairness to Skoda, my local dealer took the car in without a booking today, and managed to diagnose the above failure (by stripping the roof glass out!) and also get the roof fully closed for me. That was a more reasonable 2 hours labour, so no complaints there - aside from the fact that the roof broke in the first place!

After starting the car this morning, I pushed the button to open the roof blind as usual - but at the same time the roof slid back. So I pushed the button to close it, unfortunately it wouldn't fully close - although it will move back and forth. I'm assuming the mechanism is knackered, as I found a small lump of plastic in the runner on one side of the roof - so I guess it's snapped somewhere. I've followed the emergency procedure to manually wind the roof closed - but it won't go fully home, it sticks in the tilted position and binds up. Has anyone experienced a similar issue?