D.FYLAKTOS

The thread is almost completely damaged.

Here is the video from that modification. Take a look at 0:53 the Anemometer which installed to take measures.

I found the pictures from the old factory motor, the next (VIKA) was different in many things.

Here are the 2 sides with Heat Sleeve. Almost ready, not it's time for the Heat Shield.

Where the green is i put the Heat Sleeve, unfortunately the 2 spots with threads (yellow) restrict me so i had to put 2 ''stripes'' for each side and not one piece. In the back side i use wire (red) but this temporary till i find another way. I didn't had metal tie wraps that time but i ordered for future installation. As for the endurance of the aluminium heat tape here is a sample that i had at least for 2,5 years in the intake manifold just for test. By accident can be seen in a photo with the gear oil leak that i had, it was in the back of the intake in purpose to get the most of the heat from the exhaust manifold. 2,5 years and never moved, was still sticky when i try to remove it by hand, very durable.

I am not so sure that the underpressure from the throttle could pull inside drops of water (which must pass the gauze filter).

https://thermalcontrolproducts.com/products/aluminized-fiberglass The temperatures are not so hi, no need for something extreme.

047253041A is the part code, it's for exhaust manifold and not for air intake. I had it abut 20+ years ago, was lost when i wrapped my exhaust headers.

There must be a drain hole inside the air filter box, mine has but for sure it's not enough if the front of the car dives into water (big pothole or stagnant water).

And if comes out while you driving what's going to happen? Gear oil all around. No way ! Let it soak for a day and then very gently knock it a bit with the rubber hammer.

The tube has a J shape, i don't think it's so easy for water to come up. He kept the factory air box filter. The red highlights are his.

This is a project from a guy with Integra Type R DC-2. This tube brings fresh air from a high pressure area inside the air filter box. I want to locate the position that Skoda has the factory spot for Felicia, must be a hole behind the bumper but i will try to find a tube to extend it so the air will income better. This can be done only if the car is lifted, i will try to find an opportunity in a local repair shop here.

As for the front part or intake manifold i wanted to create a Shield only, it's not in my plans for perimeter coverage now, maybe in the future. It's difficult for something adhesive to stay on the surface due to the material itself plus the dirt after all these years. I bent the sheet and make it smaller but double layer. I would use galvanized wire in the back but like this wouldn't last i was stretch it so i opened two holes and use eyelets. The Heat Shield is ready.

I didn't use Embossed Aluminium Heat Shield sheet (although i have one) because i don't have bench, time for making curves etc but most i don't have where to support it on the intake manifold, the space is tight and most of all: I want something that won't rattle while the car is moving, a rattle or squeaking noise for me it's a cause to tear apart anything just to fix it and make it stop. A metal sheet hanging down there would be an obstacle, yes more robust material but for sure i would have problem with the layout inside the engine bay.

This i something that i wanted to do long time ago, i have seen it in numerous videos, read about it in many articles and i was advised by a mechanic to do it (customer to him for injection cleaning and air condition service). Yes i know that someone say ''does not worth it" ''Felicia does not need it" "you won't get any benefit from this" ''leave it as is from factory"etc but i will pass. This is the Skoda Felicia Intake Manifold, i didn't want to full cover it because i would have major problem in hot summer days here in GR, all i wanted was a Shield (and a Sleeve) to protect it from exhaust heat but with the ability to let it cool off normally. Many times i had the thought, always another problem was interfered, delay after delay but now before my summer vacations i said ''Now it's the time". Since no money for ceramic coating i use this material: Supposed it's till 800 Celsius but i don't care if that is true, the engine bay can not reach such temperatures because will melt. It's self adhesive, i have some experience with tapes from this material in my engine bay, also have used in the past adhesive aluminium heat tape which can stand till 200 'C. I have also done some tests with digital thermometer to see the difference and i will do some more in the future, photos and short analysis soon.

IF i had the money to buy and modify a car i would choose the Nissan 240Z-260Z. https://gr.pinterest.com/pin/datsun-240z-260z--343469909075451591/ Full modification: new injection engine, new suspension-wheels and tyres-exhaust-lights (no cover), hydraulic steering wheel, electric mirror, air condition, new bucket seats, electric windows, new inner door panels, modified central console, insulation, chassis reinforcement etc.

75W-90 GL4 A Synthetic would be an excellent choice, very good feeling in gear changes.

Did you remember to apply an extra thin coat of electric contact grease? Another example: Klüberlectric KR 44-102 is a special grease for the lubrication of electrical switches, contacts and sensors. It consists of a synthetic hydrocarbon oil and lithium soap incorporating a UV indicator for quality inspection. A special additive combination makes Klüberlectric KR 44-102 particularly suitable for the lubrication of electrical contacts. It is intended especially for the protection and lubrication of copper, tin and silver surfaces against corrosion. Further positive effects are: reduction of plug-in and switching forces, reduction of fretted oxide development, extended connecting and switching cycles, constantly low contact resistance and smoother switching transitions.

You must be very careful https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/322412-gearbox-oil/ If it broke it you have a serious problem. Spray some WD-40 or a Degrease cleaner spray around, let it soak and slack a bit, if didn't comes out then leave it. Go to a repair shop, the mechanic may have another idea but if don't then just flush the old gear oil and put 2.4 of new one, i did it the last time without removing the stick. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/524227-skoda-felicia-gearbox-leak/?do=findComment&comment=5858952 Works perfect !

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/monthly_2022_01/1318892546_Magneti-Marellienginemanagement.jpg.d14a562489d5aba71d99707282864d1d.jpg https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/475843-wiring-diagram/

Here is what i have for the Pickup immobilizer. Immobilizer.pdf Click it.

All the other base equipment diagram is there: Pickup - Base Equipment.pdf Keep in mind that i am not mechanic or engineer, i am try to provide you from anything i have from my archives.

I have for Felicia GLX , SLX 1.6 1AV (AEE) Does these help?