D.FYLAKTOS

The climax was going from top to buttom, was a snapshot. Was an (general rule) example of how the hot incoming air affects the performance.

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Since we talk about covers, air intakes etc i have found this. For every 10 'F colder air some engines can take 1 HP. As for the cutted cover take a look how it was and how is now. In the past i couldn't work-maintenance-check things beneath it as i can do now. By the way i saw a spot from the exhaust manifold that has been ''uncovered'', i will fix it soon.

Here some photos from the side. For sure it's not ''perfect'' but tall the previous expansion tanks were in terrible condition.

I took some photos this afternoon, i shed some light with a led pocket lighter and i saw that still there is some sort of muck stuck in the bottom of the expansion tank. It's not on the walls, is in the bottom where there is a hole which send via hose coolant in the radiator, the cap is very clean, no detritus at all. I didn't had a long screwdriver or similar tool to scratch that muck to see if it's ''removable". I have to admit that i am a bit disappointed, i thought that the whole content of the expansion tank would be almost clear.

I have take a measurement from radiator hoses (external touch with the digital thermometer's metal nose). Looked very normal, i will post photos tomorrow.

In that test the 80 'C were in the cavity between the fuel injectors, it's few cm below the Heat Shield covered area (on the top of that area are the 60 'C measurement).

Here are some measurements that i took few days ago, keep in mind that i am not interested for an ''ultimate test'' nor for ''exactly numbers", i am just trying to see the effectiveness of the Heat Shield so 1-2 'C more or less it's not significant for me. With Heat Shield left-right side and without. The difference is about 20 'C which leaves me satisfied and i think this would be reflected in the Fuel Consumption in long term use. ____________________________ Here is in the front of the air manifold Heat Shield which has a bigger gap, it's not so tight as in the two braces.

Another very interesting video about High-Low (and Wake) pressure surfaces in car's body from Julian Edgar. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1ZWBlHhR9s I don't regret even for a second for cutting that part of plastic, helped me to install easier the Heat Shield, lubricated easier the cable, cleaning the throttle quicker etc. Unfortunately i didn't had the chance yet to locate the exactly point (behind the bumper) that brings fresh air inside the air filter box but i think the extra hose in the grill mesh did it's job. The summer Fuel Consumption tests are over, photos and comments in a new topic.

These? Mixture - water/coolant concentrate! Observe concentration ratios according to repair manual and climatic conditions. • The frost resistance of the coolant must be guaranteed down to -25°C, • in countries with arctic climate conditions -35°C

The gap is on the description of the spark plug, nevertheless you have to check them one by one with the special tool. https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/choosing-the-right-spark-plug-gap-tool.html https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/Spark-Plug-Gap-Tip.html

Gear oil change, gear rubber bushing change and coolant flush in the same day at the repair shop.

With 20W-50 in 300msec and with 20W-60 in 100msec. Tested, approved and with certification in a frame for the wall in the house.

I don't have HEPU G12 with me now.

I will post some photos There when i return, let's hope that i wouldn't find any signs of muck.

I am in 45% ,for first time so hi, i was in 25% with G11 but now i change it and in winter i will know if i was right ir wrong.

I would like the colour to be more red than now which looks like pink (one click darker). With the old G11 (blue) the level line was vey distinguive, now every time i had to get very close to see, i will throw some coloring matter inside. 😁

I am in the middle of my vacations, with high summer temperatures here the G12 goes very well, no overheating or any alarming indication. Comparing to G11 i can not say that there is some sort if "huge" improvement but i thing it's one click better in "temperature recall" ,i mean when the coolant returns to normal operating temperatures before reaches the limit where the radiator fan start spinning. I think this will reflected in fuel consumption, we will see soon..

Last year with the 5W-40 i had a red light dashboard warning for 2 seconds in cold starts, @R_Blue has not so may i assume that has not any oil pressure issues with the existing engine oil that has?

So an oil temperature gauge isn't more helpful than a oil pressure?

This Redex? https://vresladia.gr/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/redex-prostheto-lipantikoy-400ml.jpg Redex Oil Treatment 400ml

Stick with ghe originals, i have done some experiments in the past with other types and the results always were not good.

My worst temperature scores were with stock thermoswitch (87-92) and that damned coolant sensors with the yellow ring.

And when realise that has problem with the pressure of yhe existing oil what's next?

I have never seen that number for about 20 years that i have gauge (old and newer) in my console, except in case of a problem. Full heated (for example in city traffic for about two hours) in summer it barely shows 90 'C, while traveling is at least 2-4 'C less.