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My Mk2 Superb estate has now gone, replaced with an Audi A6 Avant. It’s been a damn fine car though, like both my Mk1 Superbs before it. Thanks to all members here for the help in the past. This place is a hive of good information. If anyone has a use for an 18” Trinity alloy complete with a decent tyre I have one for sale. I bought it brand new as a spare and it was only ever on the road for about 10 miles when I got a puncture. Will be collection only from near Tamworth cos of the size etc. As in the picture below.

Afternoon all. A wee issue with the Superb which the diagnostics told me is a bad wheel speed sensor. Ordered one from eBay and fitted it today. Still have the fault codes which was confusing but a bit of research showed me there are 2 types, one for cars with park assist and one without. It turns out I do actually have park assist (who knew) which means I got the wrong type of sensor. I got the black one and need the grey apparently. looking at the one I took out, which is grey, has a part number of 10.0711-6336.3. I can’t find this anywhere. Another part code I have is WHT 003 858 A. The only close one I can find starts with 24, not 10. EuroCarParts do list both, but £64.34 is beyond stupid for such a part. Are there any alternative suppliers that do the ATE part? ATE make the OE ones from what I can tell so that would be my preference Thanks

I had this a week or so back. Information I found is in this thread. System fitted depends on trim but loosely, if you have sensors front and rear, and you have the Park-Assist system you have 2 sounders. Front one behind the dash pod, can be got to via the mini glovebox to the right to the steering wheel. Rear one is on the main crossmember at the top of the D Pillars, just up behind the headliner.

Just to add, in case it helps someone out, it was quite a bit of a mission finding the parts on the car, not a lot of diagrams out there for the estate version and some erroneous information as well. Where the car has front and rear sensors it also has front and rear beep speakers. Front is behind the instrument cluster and well documented. Rear is above the headliner at the rear of the car and can't be seen by just pulling the headliner down a bit. The main rear box section supporting the roof has it mounted on the forward facing surface towards the right side of the car (driver's side in the UK) so it's quite hard to get at without removing the headliner. Same 2 plastic rivets as the front one which you can push the centre right through with a small straight Torx driver or similar, at least that's what I did. Refitting was done with a double-sided sticky pad. remove the 2 D pillar trims by pulling off (away from the D post) gently pull the headliner down enough to get your hands in and feel for the speaker. If you prop the headliner down a bit with a torch or similar you can look in the side window to see the speaker. Don't pull the liner down too much or you will crease it. I used a T10 Torx driver (nice and thin) and used it to push the centre of the rivets right through. This means the rivets are then no good as the centre bit will be lost in the box section forever. You are effectively pulling the driver towards you unless you really do want to take the headliner out. One of those mirror mount pads for the windscreen was used to attach the replacement speaker.

I had 2 of the series 1 Superbs, both Edition 100's. First was a 1.9PD manual which went on to see 240k miles. replaced with a 2.5D Auto which also did a stack of miles. My only gripe with the Mark 1 was lack of an estate body option so about a year back I traded to a Mark 2 estate 2.0d Elegance. Maintenance is not that bad all things considered, certainly not an expensive car to run as long as routine maintenance is done properly. I do find it strange that people are unwilling to do a clutch and flywheel though. Just because it costs more than the perceived value of the car is somewhat irrelevant. The real question is, what can you replace it with for the same money?

OK, found it up behind the headliner at the back. Awkward to get out but it’s definitely duff. The front one measures 49 ohms, the back one is open circuit.

Cool, thanks for this. Are there any diagrams to help? Got half the car in bits but can't see it. I found the one up behind the instrument pod and that works OK. Just can't seem to find diagrams for the estate. Thanks.

HI All, Wondering if anyone can help please? Optical parking system, Superb 2014 Estate / Combi. The parking system throws a fault at start up. I get a long error beep. What isn't clear is where the parking sounder is. VCDS shows the below but I'm confused as to where the long beep comes from if the parking aid speaker is supposedly dead? Or is the error beep coming from a different sounder? Thanks for any pointers. Dom Address 10: Park/Steer Assist (J791) Labels:| 3T0-919-475-V2.clb Part No SW: 3T0 919 475 D HW: 4H0 919 475 E Component: PARKHILFE PLA H06 0005 Revision: -------- Serial number: Coding: 149202 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00056 ASAM Dataset: EV_EPHVA2CAS46X0000 001003 ROD: EV_EPHVA2CAS46X0000_001.rod VCID: 1 Fault Found: 1080340 - Parking Aid Speaker B107C 14 [009] - Open or Short to Ground Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 25 Mileage: 159055 km Date: 2021.10.25 Time: 15:08:06

Many thanks for this, much appreciated. The diagrams help loads as well, but the info given means I can probably do what I want very easily. The low line only having a single wire pair into each door means I can replace the actual speakers with something more sensitive, higher quality, and I can fit a proper crossover in the door. This really ought to improve the sound quality a lot based on what I can see of the factory fit units. If that ends up being no good I can add an aftermarket amp but hopefully I won't have to go there.

Right chaps, I swore this wouldn’t happen, honest! I have a blown speaker in the nsr door, the bass unit, well if you could call it that lol. So I removed the door card to be sure and yes, it’s blown. All scratchy sounding. I was looking for a replacement, just the factory fit one and now I have 72 square feet of sound deadening which arrived today God knows how that happened. So the HU seems to be the Columbus 510 which is fine, actually sounds quite good. But no amplifier under the seat which I think means it is the low line version, yes? The main question would be, how easy would it be to add a half decent amp? From what I am reading the Columbus can be coded to put out line levels but there’s no sub output. At a guess this is to add the high line amp and the 10 speaker option but line level should drive any amp. I’m just confused as to the actual number of channels, Skoda say 4, the amp labels in google say 10. Which is it? The reason I ask is to understand if they are 10 channels, 1 per speaker, or 4 channels with crossovers in the doors, the wiring basically. Could I, for example, add the factory amp and the high line speakers quite easily? I promised the wife this won’t turn into another complete strip out like the last time I “just” changed the head unit That became 2 months with no interior except the driver’s seat while it was all sound deadened and a full processed, multi amped system was installed. 3 way active at the front with time alignment. I’m not allowed to go there again apparently, although she did admit it sounded lovely. Ideas please chaps, preferably before she kills me.

Yep, retired the Mk1 Superb Edition 100 from active service and collected the replacement MK2 Elegance estate this morning. 120 miles drive home and it’s a lovely drive. I’m still finding the toys. Really loving the panoramic glass roof, especially after the Ed-100 which has the tinted glass. It’s very light and airy in the new one. Just got to find a spare wheel to replace the repair kit thing. And clean up the old one ready for the bay of all blagging.

Yep, you read it correctly, out with the old and in with the, erm slightly older So, old “Donkey” was getting a bit long in the leg (239,000 miles) and after serving me well for 5 years I was looking to replace him. To give me an incentive I put him in for the MOT to see how bad things were and promptly came out with a pass. Hmmmmm So that was that for a week or so, until during an idle moment over Christmas I was browsing Facebook marketplace when I happened across new “Donkey”. Less than half the miles of old Donkey, better condition, automatic box (which I prefer) and the larger 2.5 diesel engine. A quick test drive, even quicker haggle and he was on the way home with me. So, old is a Superb 1, Edition 100 1.9 manual and new is a Superb 1, Edition 100 2.5 auto. Now, just the question of what to do with old Donkey

You’ve sold the E100??? I’m just about to retire mine..... but just bought another E100. what have you got left then? cheers. Dom. edit. Are you in the FB group ?

Thanks Roto. Assuming i've got this correct, this is the long loom inside the cam box. I buzzed it out with a Fluke meter over the weekend. Nothing untoward, max value I got was 5 ohms. Do they go intermittent with the heating/cooling of the engine perhaps? Should I just change the thing and be done? Thanks Dom EDIT. This is the one I checked. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Audi-VW-Injector-Wiring-Loom-For-1-9-TDI-PD-Diesel-Engines-038971600-/172177412634?hash=item281692d21a:g:BWwAAOSwwE5Waagu

A bit perplexed by this one chaps, wondering if anyone can shed some light on it. Superb, 1.9PD, 130bhp. 2006 registered, 208k miles So, when the revs are between idle and 1500 it feels like there is a slight misfire. This is made worse buy opening the throttle wider. But once the revs are over 1500 it all smooths out again and pulls strongly through the gears. Most noticeable in 4th or 5th, especially if I let the revs drop when slowing down. It always used to pull smoothly from about 1100 rpm but this is becoming more noticeable. 2 things which have come to mind are injectors or perhaps the dual mass flywheel. I know on one of my Land Rovers the injectors fell out of spec over time and they had to be refurbished and then re-calibrated to the car (Discovery 3) but that was more about exhaust smoke than lumpy running. No smoke issues on the Superb unless wide open throttle in 3rd and up around 70mph such as accelerating onto a motorway and this looks more like soot being expelled from the exhaust rather than unburnt fuel. As for the DMF, no rattles, no jerkiness through the gears so I'm not sure what to look for there. Or it might be something completely different. Any suggestions gratefully received. Thanks.

Would these fit a Mk1 Superb?

Last year, when I replaced the calipers. Changed all the fluid at the same time.

So looks like I'll be keeping the Superb for a while, mainly because it seems to be silly season on used car prices right now. I've been reading about the various options to upgrade the brakes but most of them seem geared towards the Octavia. Will these also be applicable to an 05 Superb? What I want to do is get a better pedal, reduce fade and also try and alleviate this taper wearing of the pads. I used the A14 every day and that road can quite literally go from 70 to zero in a couple of hundred yards. 2 or 3 of these incidents is enough to make the pedal rather spongy and that's normal for my daily commute. Already replaced disks, pads & calipers but no better than before really. Since the 2.5 version brakes use the same caliper I can't see them being much different in terms of fade so I was looking at the Porsche caliper set up but I can't find any threads where this has been done on a Superb I. Ideally any threads which detail the parts needed. Appreciate any pointers and advice please Gents. Dom

I always go through the correct top up procedure afterwards. it's the only way of getting it spot on but I've never been out by more than half a litre. As for mixing fluids I never do that either although once someone has put the wrong stuff in it it's hard to get a 100% change. They are getting to that age though. Mine's a Jan 06 and starting to show signs of general wear although the engine is still strong. Original turbocharger as well. I do over 200 miles a day to work and back so I need reliability but I get the feeling this one is going to need money spending before too long. I wouldn't mind throwing some money at it but they do tend to get to the stage where it's a constant stream of issues. When I add up stuff like a clutch, brakes, shocks, springs, suspension arms, CV joints etc it looks like the thick end of 2 grand, probably better spent getting a lower mileage one. It's just the matter of finding a decent one, as you say there are some mental prices out there. I gave 2 grand for mine over 2 years ago and have done 80k in it yet some similar ones are still at 3 grand now. Madness.

Could well be parting with mine Jimbo. 193k. Edition 100, 1.9PD 5 speed manual. Right spec but probably too leggy for what you want. Couple of niggles too. Deffo not 6k though. As for the auto transmission, as you rightly point out the box is a ZF and there are one or two things which are common to a lot of their transmissions. 1. The Mechatronic unit (Valve body) is rarely (if ever) serviced by the autobox reconditioning people and this part is what causes most of the trouble. I know, I've done a few of the 6HP26 and 6HP28 units fitted to BMWs and Land Rovers. Anyone who might be interested in having a go definitely should. If they are stripped and cleaned with a strong solvent, replace any weak solenoids and re-assembled they will massively improve the life of the clutch packs. A digital camera is your friend for remembering how they go back together. ZF service centres will supply parts. 2. Sealed for life. Erm, that means "Sealed for the life of the warranty Sir". Interestingly, Land Rover modified this to say 150k miles or 10 years for a fluid change which is still madness. BMW, on the same box (minus the 4WD transfer box) quote 60K. I always change fluid via the cooler circuit. 25L drum on a workmate feeding new fluid in and another empty 25l drum on the ground to catch the old fluid. Then just let the gearbox pump do the work. 3. Cooler circuits get blocked. On some (not Skoda that I'm aware of though) it's even known for them to leak across engine and box cooling leading to antifreeze in the box. Death nails. Heat or antifreeze are both sure fire ways to cook clutches. 4. Correct oil is essential. Not cheap copy stuff which doesn't meet spec. Most modern autos need electrically inert oil as well as the right fluidity properties. A lot of generic ATF is not electrically inert and this fries the ECU, not to mention confusing the hell out of the valve body solenoids. 5. Torque converters. Genuine ZF only for me, not recon ones. OK with a Superb it's not so big a job but with a Discovery 3 it's another 5 hours to get the body off again. Pay cheap, pay twice.

I'd recommend them. I bought my 06 Edition 100 over 2 years ago as a work hack. 192k on it and still going strong. Just wish it was automatic.

Cheers Jimbo. Well chaps, you heard the man. Anyone near enough to J11 of the M42 able to help please? Postcode B79 0PD. Beer tokens waiting. Could do with getting it fixed as she goes back to inter-galactic duties as of Monday. 88 miles each way to work and back. Currently 191k and still going strong. Just could do with a little light on the subject

VCDS ?? Is that the VAG com stuff? I don't have a scanner myself, the local garage did it with a generic fault code reader I think.

So I've done a search on here and Google but nothing comes up that I can find. 2006 Superb Edition 100 with bi-xenons. Sometimes the lamps are fine although I can't say I've noticed the dance on startup. However sometimes the lamps are absolutely on the floor and only illuminating a few yards of the road ahead. Occasionally I do get a message in the maxidot display of "Lights Failure" BUT this doesn't correspond with the lamps being aimed very low AND it will never give the error until about 15 minutes of motorway (70 ish MPH) driving. I had the fault codes read which showed a faulty brake light switch. That has been replaced. Nothing else to report. Any ideas please chaps? Thanks Dom

Well it happened on mine now, surprising really as I did replace the seal under the pollen filter box with silicone sealant. I guess I can't have gotten it all completely sealed. Anyway I took it to my local auto electrician and it was swimming under the driver's seat carpet apparently but he fixed it all and repaired 22 wires as they were all rotten. Only cost me 100 quid which I thought was a bargain and now that intermittent central locking on the OSR door is back working as it should. Some questions though if I may. 1. The tray the pollen filter sits in - should this have a lid? Looks for all the world like it should. 2. What's the best thing to use to re-seal the air intake box? I was looking at sikaflex caravan sealant as this remains flexible once cured. Any experiences? 3. Realistically how much longer will the car go on for? It's the 2006 1.9 PD engine and it seems fine but the car has now done 183k. I'm trying to get a feel for whether to have it all cleaned up, new tyres, new brakes, fix the reversing sensors etc. Or perhaps buy a newer one? It's only my work hack so it doesn't have to be cosmetically perfect but I do try to keep the mechanicals in tip top condition. I'm just loathe to spend 6 or 7 hundred quid if it's likely to clap out anytime soon. The car's probably not worth much more than 500 quid now although for what it does it's worth much more to me. Thanks. Dom.