MereKat

There's obvious differences, but I didn't think there was enough to make that much of a difference on wheel fitment! I take it you mean these wheels with the adaptors were fitted to his VRs, but have no chance fitting your TSi? I have some Scirocco 17x8 wheels on mine and the fronts are level with the arch but there's not much between the wheel and strut iirc, rears fit fine though with plenty of room Good excuse to do a proper wide arch job??

My 105 has been up to 126mph on GPS and 130something on the clocks, it also used to happily cruise between 80-100mph on long journeys where the roads allowed, and I've had quite a few comments on how surprisingly quick off the line it is for a mere 105bhp baby. It does seem to have decent low end torque but anything else soon catches up...0-30, lovely, 30-anything else.....not so quick! I didn't think the stock 105 could be mapped much higher than 130? I did look at it a few years ago and after reading up on the tuners that claim 140+ it appeared the dynos used were renowned for over-reading. I'm not too fused though, at the end of the day it's a family car and has my kids in it so don't need it to be an Evo contender! J.R, I take it you had an immo defeat mapped into the replacement ECU? I'm wondering whether to do it as it makes replacement keys a hell of a lot cheaper but obviously makes the car easier to steal...if anyone wanted a dark green Octavia to try and joyride anyway!

I thought that after rereading! Mines been the best I've had, not far off my 2 Rovers and Gen 3 Swift though! I'm sticking with the DMF on mine, less than £300 for a full Sachs kit with new bolts etc. Refurb turbo will also be ordered tomorrow and if I have enough money left after they're fitted then a basic remap may also happen. Quite looking forward to it, after having a few months of 60-70bhp (according to the Torque Pro app)it's hopefully going to feel like an S4 beater! Hoping a remap will get it to 130-140 with the replacement turbo and get it back to 50-60mpg rather than the 25-30 I get now! Then it'll be new wheels/tyres again as 2 are very low on the inside (Rears obviously, I'll swap them with the fronts for now which are wearing nice and evenly) and maybe another little audio upgrade!

Good point, I don't know how to read that now!

Well it seems the general consensus is to keep it, so it's booked in to have the MOT necessaries sorted on Monday and a retest on Tueaday. New clutch will be ordered tomorrow (DMF as it's cheap enough for a Sachs kit). New turbo is being looked at and will be done at the same time as the clutch. VAC lines will be replaced, I'll service it while it gets the clutch and...Drivers window regulator....mine broke 18 months ago and has been taped up since! Must do that soon, I have a replacement mechanism, just need to replace it! Would be lovely to not have to open my door to get a ticket in a car park...or visit a drive through! It will also get a proper clean, something it hasn't had for a long time!! £300 for a 55 at the time sounds like a bargain! Mine was £4k in 2014 so similar age as yours at the time!

It's had 2 Mr muscle treatments and getting worse. According to the Torque app over the past month it's output has been a maximum of 77bhp, it's the original turbo though and wouldn't have had the easiest of lives! To be fair, if it costs me just over £1k to get it right I'd still consider it a good value motor, it's just a pain it's all come at once really! I guess after this the only things to watch are going to be any bushings and the cam belt again in 10-15k miles. I did originally plan on having this car for 10 years or until it crumbles, it has been very reliable although it has its niggles but being an ex forces car I never expected anything special from it. Staggered repairs I think are the way I'm going with it...I like it far too much to drop it!

Bodywork is generally ok, couple of small dents that are very strange and a little bit of rust developing on the sills. After a clean it looks quite nice though! I don't want to part with it really but it all comes down to whether it's economically viable in the end... So far i have: Lower arm and droplinks -£150 Inc labour Clutch - £150 labour plus parts (Or £650 all in for SMF Conversion from a garage) Turbo - £2-300+Surcharge depending which version + £100 labour The costs slowly add up but hoping to be able to spread it over a few months depending how long the major bits are going to hold up!

That's exactly what I'm thinking, for the money I could probably buy the same car without the faults and possibly better spec, but it would likely have similar miles and as such similar problems very soon. The money I've spent is mostly wheels/tires and suspension and only about £150 on repairs, so really it's been very good to me! Being an ex police car it's been maintained to the book up to 105k then I got it. I have also considered finding a crash damaged car to get the engine/gearbox etc from if cheap enough, I'd imagine the labour time for an experienced garage wouldn't be much over 10 hours and £3-400 for the car itself? I'll have a look at other cars for now and see what's around, which is always hard...for a very unknown reason I'm drawing towards CDTi 150 Astras......it's annoying! Octavia's seem to be holding value around here though and bargain good motors are few and far between!

I'm a bit stuck on what to do with this...56' Elegance Estate PD105 with 170k. Had this car for 5 years, done 65k in it and so far spent around £800 on it. I didn't pay for the car, it was a gift. I do get attached to my car's, be it this or my old 1991 fiesta...it's my car... Now....MOT calls for a lower arm and an ARB link dust cover to pass as well as having a few advisories. If that was all it needed then it would be going through and being kept.... however... I'm positive the turbo is shot (may replace with a refurbished unit) and now the clutch has just about had it which makes it just about unusable (very harsh vibrating under any load while in 3rd-5th gear. Disappears with clutch pressed, may be replaced with an SMF Conversion). But, at what point to you decide that the repair costs outweigh replacing the car? Even though replacing these will likely give another few years of fairly cheap motoring....I'm guessing the parts and labour for what I think it needs is going to be £1-1.2k and for that kind of money I could definitely replace the car, but for one that's going to be any better in a year's time?....

Had a search, its a UFI. Looked at their website, checked specs and sizes, purchased a replacement from Wilco's, Wrong size! Didn't notice the centers are different! Back to factors tomorrow, hopefully they'll have the right one!

Looking to change my fuel filter very soon...'56 reg BXE, there seems to be 3 options of different sizes!? How can I tell which I'd need without taking the old filter out? Everywhere I look using the reg to find parts gives the same 3 options which are different sizes....

Those sensors look the same as my 56' Elegance which are factory fit. I also had phantom beeping until someone hit the back and pushed the corner sensor out...refitted it and it worked perfectly, until a couple of weeks ago when they stopped working almost completely!

I had the same thing, very dim headlights. Tried stock replacements and a couple of different upgrade halogen options but they were always dim to the point is was getting difficult to see more than a couple of car lengths ahead. Fitted a 35w HID kit which at first was a hell of a lot better, but then after being in a few other cars with halogen lamps they're still not amazing! Definitely better than what they were though.

Bigjohn, I'll possibly remove the cooler but leave the actual EGR valve in place with a bit of bit of vac line attached (but blocked off) so it looks like it all works and just blank it off, it's been cleaned and vac line is currently disconnected, both metal flexi pipes have broken so it doesn't do anything anyway! Turbo is blanked off with a steel plate between the turbo and flexi pipe for now. Although, apart from accessibility behind the engine is there any point in removing the cooler if the turbo and valve are both blanked properly eventually? I can't say I've noticed anything different when turning the engine off, although there is a slight whistle while driving so I think there is a leak somewhere, it may possibly be leaking past the egr valve itself as that isn't blanked just disconnected but I can't find which area it's coming from as you can't hear it at idle. I'll give it another look at some point, having time to do it is an issue!

Looking like it'll be a good thing to do then! Just the EGR guide to find now then, that and look at a turbo upgrade

JR, mine currently on 169k, had the first go about 1k ago, but it's still not right so will go again. Still get limp mode and no power until 3-3500rpm. Valeo I've heard is the kit to go for and a mix of TDI and VR6 parts, but wanted to hear from anyone that actually done it really as it's a hefty outlay for something that may render my car worse to drive. I'll check parts if it's a worthwhile change if not it'll unfortunately go to a scrap yard when it eventually dies fully...I can't warrant nor afford the costs of a DMF replacement! The cooler sounds like a slightly fiddly but simple thing to remove but I just can't get a grasp visually on what bits join to what when removing!

Does anyone know of a removal guide with pics? Seen a few text guides but I struggle to visualise what's going on. My cooler is essentially hanging (Had to move it out of the way for the first turbo clean attempt, bolts don't appear to have been retightened fully and are gone!) and I'm wanting to remove the whole system and hopefully clean the turbo out properly soon... Also, has anyone got any experience of an SMF Conversion on the PD105? I've read many stories of bad vibration afterwards but then plenty that say it's fine!

After my boost issues still being present after a Mr Muscle blast I think the VNT control is coked up. It's not a job I wish to do in an evening so I'm thinking of just replacing the turbo and then cleaning up the original one (I have 1 weekend a month to myself, that's not going to be until the end of September now and will be spent with my partner doing far better things than working on this car again!). I've been looking around and there's a lot of parts options for similar costs, but I'm not sure on what I'm actually looking at. This one for instance: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/GT1646V-751851-Turbocharger-FOR-Audi-Seat-Skoda-VW-Golf-V-Passat-BJB-BKC-BXE-NEW/122491482256?hash=item1c850fb090:g:XmAAAOSw~y9ZFR5R&fits=Cars Year%3A2006|Car Make%3ASkoda|Model%3AOctavia|Cars Type%3A1.9 TDI|Variant%3A1Z5 [2004-2013] Estate|Platform%3A1Z5|Plat_Gen%3A1Z5 Is this a stock BXE turbo I can just bolt straight on, or would it be an "upgrade" and need mapping? I'm thinking of replacing the turbo, properly deleting the EGR system (Currently had a bodge to block it off) and remapping it. Hopefully just buy some bits, give them to a local garage/tuner and wait for a bill at the end. However if these GT1646 turbos are stock then I won't bother deleting/mapping for now and just replace the turbo unit and EGR Cooler pipe (Pipe snapped, hence thinking of deleting) to keep costs down for now...

IIRC this is what I bought for mine, not a perfect fit but close enough. You may need to find a quadlock adaptor and single din cage. I bought mine as a kit which I think cost me just under £30 at the time and had everything I needed (Was a Connects2 kit). Should have kept with it as their Double Din kit is the worst fitting kit I've ever used!

So a 65 mile run about and refill shows a 36mpg which I didn't think was too bad is it was journeys to work and back twice and a 40 mile round trip. Getting from Norwich to Llandudno used just over half a tank which is about average for this journey. I'm thinking a sensor has gone, although nothing comes up on any code readers.....

I have completely blanked it (Cracked the Turbo to Cooler pipe while reassembling after Mr Muscle treatment) so blanked the Turbo outlet and the EGR valve to inlet with some 1mm Steel between the Pipe and the Turbo and Pipe and EGR Valve. Everything is still in place though) EML Light does come on but only the EGR/Boost codes are present which they have been for a few weeks anyway). I took the vac line off the EGR valve ages ago when it first went into limp mode in hope of lessening the buildup in the turbo. I've had it upto redline a few times after Mr Muscle to try and clear everything out but hasn't made much of a difference to the limp mode (Hence now thinking its the control ring...great...) Ill fill it up tonight then again tomorrow night, that should give me around 50 miles travelling. It's just strange how the cars reading has dropped so much overnight, it's always been around the same regardless of which engine issue it's had up until today!

Hopefully someone can help me, it could possibly an easy one for some of you! Last weekend I blanked the EGR off on the car ('56 BXE PD105) after a Mr Muscle turbo clean and scanned for faults which were cleared with the full Torque app. There are now codes stored for the EGR and theres still a code for the boost issue with limp mode present (I'm guessing the control ring is coked up). Up until last night my MPG reading hadn't really changed from what it's always been (Average of around 45) Last night i gave the turbo actuator a little lubrication just incase it was something sticking on the outside and took it for a drive (Made no difference!). I pulled over and the car stalled out and wouldn't restart. Turned out i'd not reconnected the maf/map sensor after taking the intake pipe off! Reconnected. Started fine and off it went. Same issues with boost/limp mode though. This morning however. My usual journey to work which usually shows around 58mpg until i get into the city (Drops to low 40s when i get to work) was reading as 17. The fuel gauge also had a noticable level drop. Scanned for faults when i got to work and nothing new shows up. Driving "like my gran borrowed it" made no real difference. I borrowed my colleagues laptop with full VCDS but it wouldn't connect to the car for a more in depth scan (Car isn't OBDII Compatible apparently) Any ideas where i can look?? As i haven't changed anything apart from clearing fault codes i have absolutely no clue what could have actually changed! I'm due to make a drive to north wales on Saturday and if the mpg can't be sorted it's going to be a very expensive journey!!

Simple details... Can't remove EGR cooler or EGR toturbo pipe. It isn't going to happen. Moved the pipe off the turbo studs to get access to turbo and now it will not go back. No space for leverage and need to move it over about 4mm back onto the studs. Any idea what I can do before I literally scrap this POS?

Thanks guys. I think the Varta E44 may be my next purchase. Budget isn't too much of issue Ryan as I'll be buying it with a new amp and subs when a bonus comes in at work in April and possibly putting in a dereg alternator too. Not completely sure yet.

Hi guys, I have a PD105 Elegance and suspect the battery is on its way out (5 years ownership, no idea when it was put on before I owned the car) What's a recommended battery to put in? It has AC and will also have a 1500w (rms) audio system which will pull around 100a. I'm getting pulsing lights etc and the windows won't close with the auto pull on the button (gets half way then opens again). I thought it was an alternator fault but have replaced it with a 140a unit which hasn't solved the issue. Figuring the battery would be the next port of call... I've read an 096 is the biggest without losing the covers but a group 31 high drain leisure battery will fit. Is a group 31 any better? Are they worth looking at for what Ill need? (Seems they're more expensive) No fault codes etc except a low voltage code for the windows...